Speedo Replace Tips

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Treblig

Treblig

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I'm replacing my speedo tomorrow. I have the service manual for the car ('69 Barracuda). Is it as simple as doing as the service manual states or are there any good shortcuts or things that would make it easier/faster? Is there anything I should watch out for.

thanks,
Treblig
 
it is one of, if not the hardest, a-body dash to pull. I haven't read the manual instructions but I would assume them to be straight forward.

Be careful disconnecting the wire connectors in the back of the dash they are fragile and the pins can break. Also watch the right corner of the dash when removing as it too can break off. I would use this time to replace the dash bulbs also.
 
The service doesn't say anything about lowering the steering column. Wouldn't that make it easier??

Treblig
 
Here's a pic that I send to every rally panel owner I deal with. Shown is a spot where the printed circuit board extends beyond the edge of the pot metal housing. We want to grab and lift here but... That's a bad move. Loose or broken pins are much easier to repair that a break such as this.
Everything about these panels is fragile so please handle with care.
There is a screw attaching bezel to housing at the right end near climate control.
I have a pic of the bezel broken there too. Don't forget to remove that screw !
Don't over tighten these screws when putting it back together ( don't use a power screwdriver on any of it ). Over tighten the bezel to housing screws can pull visible dimples and even create outline in the face side of the plastic.
Take a close look at it before going back to the car. You wouldn't want to get it all installed and later discover a hair trapped and hanging in front of a gauge ( I've seen that too ).
Any shifter would eventually get moved. To pull the park brake would only be in the way. Solution... chock the wheels.
Only my customers get more support. Good luck
 

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Thanks Redfish. But from the looks of your pic I shouldn't need to remove the circuit board right?? I can't see the speedo in the pic but the speedo is the only thing I plan to mess with. The manual says to disconnect the left side gauges first from under the dash. Then the speedo cable then pull out the instrument panel and disconnect the other plugs. I'm doing the work at a friends garage and plan to drive the car home later in the day. Not knowing any better I told my friend that it shouldn't take more than 3 hours. It doesn't seem that difficult by reading the service manual. Is it OK to pry the plugs off the backside of the panel using those hard plastic tools they use on upholstery and windshield replacements.

treblig

Treblig
 
The break didn't come from removing the circuit board. Careless handling of the panel caused that break. Replacing that circuit board was afterwards.
 
Yes! you're correct dropping the column at least the three bolt to the dash frame does make it easier to remove and install. It also helps to reduce scratching it.

Here is a step by step I wrote before for someone else w/ a 67. I may have missed a step or two off of my head but this should about get it and is the quickest/easiest way I know to do one. I have done a lot of 'um! adjust for year, omit radio steps for 68-9.

disconnect battery.
remove cover from bottom of steering column, 4 screws
removes 3 bolts that retain column to bracket
remove two slide knobs from heater control (allen head)
remove radio knobs
remove two nuts holding radio to bezel
remove knob from wiper sw, remove nut. let sw stay.
remove headlight sw pull handle, push down button from behind to release, remove nut from h-light sw
remove reset knob for tripmeter unscrews counterclockwise, might have to hold shaft.
remove nut from flasher sw
from under
disconnect speedo cable
disconnect 3 prong connector from PCB on left side
disconnect connector from PCB on right side (main)
remove vac line from vac gauge if equipped, tach wires etc.
in front again
remove phillips fillister screws from bezel
pull dash forward slightly
disconnect connector from heater sw
disconnect two 3/8 bolt holding heater control from bezel frame
remove two 3/8 bolts from amp gauge

while pulling down on steering wheel to drop column a few inches remove bezel (if it doesnt want to drop enough. remove 3 bolts securing column to firewall.

with bezel out of car remove all 5/16 in bolts securing the bezel to the frame
remove bezel from frame
remove 2 flat head screws securing the speedo to the frame
remove speedo.

reverse order to reinstall.




Treblig said:
The service doesn't say anything about lowering the steering column. Wouldn't that make it easier??

Treblig
Click to expand...
 
The how ( dos) are found in service manuals. I'm more about the do nots.
Forum members might suggest you remove the seats so you can lay in the floor to work under the dash. You'll need decide whos methods work best for you.
I don't like to contradict others suggestions but I must say... Do not pull down on the steering column. There are 3 bolts at the column to floor flange . Remove those 3 first.
Then remove the one bolt at half way on right side. Please note; This bolt goes into a caged nut. If you should cross thread that nut you are in for another half days work, so there's another do not. When you remove the final 2 nuts from the upper end of the column you can gently lower it to the seat without damaging signal switch or anything else inside it. Please note; If you have column shift, lower that shifter from park so you don't distort the shifter linkage. Some have lost the neutral safety switch adjustment by pulling down on the column while the shifter is in the park position.
The column should drop straight down and go straight back up again. All of the hardware has left marks that indicate where it was. Done right it will function just as it did before.
 
Thanks a million for everyone's input. I believe that the "do nots" are just as important as the "dos"!!!
I have printed out this thread so we'll see how things go.
treblig
 
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