Spring relocation kit?

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Mullinax95, are you talking about getting the offset shackle type kit or the relocation kit? Either way, you'd need to move the perches to run that wheel & tire combo. With the offset kit, I don't think that much backspacing will work unless you use some type of spacer to move the wheel out a bit. If you relocate the springs to the frame, I think you'd need to mini tub the car to use that wheel & tire as is.
 
'64 Cuda said:
Mullinax95, are you talking about getting the offset shackle type kit or the relocation kit? Either way, you'd need to move the perches to run that wheel & tire combo. With the offset kit, I don't think that much backspacing will work unless you use some type of spacer to move the wheel out a bit. If you relocate the springs to the frame, I think you'd need to mini tub the car to use that wheel & tire as is.
Click to expand...

Offset shackle kit.

Yeah you're right. I'll have to cut down on the backspacing a bit. I'll get the springs moved in and go from there. I don't want my tire to sticking past the fender is why I thinking of so much backspacing.

I know that DART340 said it is all bolt on and I just counldn't figure how you move the leaf in without moving the perch?
 
I don't think it's a "bolt in" deal but it's a lot easier than moving the springs into the frame. :D If you're looking at the Prostar then I'm guessing you have switched to the large bolt pattern. Summit has a wheel that's similar with 4.5" backspacing on an 8" wheel. That might work for you, but if you want to put a 275 tire in the back it's going to be really tight & I think you're going to have to measure VERY carefully. Go to this site with the measurements from your current wheel/tire combo & play with it a bit. It's been a real help for me.

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp

I've been wanting to put a 275 tire on my car & it looks like an 8.5" wheel with about 4 7/8" to 5" backspacing (3mm to 6mm positive offset) would be the way to do it. Your car might have a bit more room on the outside than mine. I think I'm going to look at using a 265/60 or 265/50 15 in the back. A 10.5" cross section in a wheel tub that's only about 11.5" to 11.75" inches wide [-o< is about as far as I'm willing to go.

:burnout:
 
'64 Cuda said:
I don't think it's a "bolt in" deal but it's a lot easier than moving the springs into the frame. :D If you're looking at the Prostar then I'm guessing you have switched to the large bolt pattern. Summit has a wheel that's similar with 4.5" backspacing on an 8" wheel. That might work for you, but if you want to put a 275 tire in the back it's going to be really tight & I think you're going to have to measure VERY carefully. Go to this site with the measurements from your current wheel/tire combo & play with it a bit. It's been a real help for me.

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp

I've been wanting to put a 275 tire on my car & it looks like an 8.5" wheel with about 4 7/8" to 5" backspacing (3mm to 6mm positive offset) would be the way to do it. Your car might have a bit more room on the outside than mine. I think I'm going to look at using a 265/60 or 265/50 15 in the back. A 10.5" cross section in a wheel tub that's only about 11.5" to 11.75" inches wide [-o< is about as far as I'm willing to go.

:burnout:
Click to expand...

Wow! Thanks for the link. That's a good one. All I know is that Adam's cuda had the 275 tire so I would like to get everything as close to the sizes he had so I know that it will work. Including moving the springs in some. I have not got the offset shackle/spring kit yet but will pretty soon so I can get that part behind me.
 
I have those (275/60) on my `68 without any mods, 15 x 8 w/4.25 backspacing.

IM000422 (Small).JPG


IM000423 (Small).JPG
 
Wow!

Really!?:scratch:

Now I don't know what to do. I was going to get the offset shackle kit installed and then measure everything up to pick the right wheel. But if you don't have to move the leaf springs that would a lot easier of course and save money.

OK it just hit me. The first thing I've got to focus on is I want the Weld Racing Prostar wheels. Now I looked at the their web site and there are only three wheels that they make that will work in 4.5" bolt pattern.

15X9 13offset 5.5backspacing 5X4.5bolt pattern

15X8 25 5.5 5X4.5

15X8 0 4.5 5X4.5

I think the 15X8 with the 0 offset and 4.5 backspacing is the wheel that I have to go with. Now whether or not I have to move the springs is the question.
 
So is it necesarry to move your spring perches if you choose to use the offset spring hangers?? Since I am going to try to put in a b-body rear I'm going to have to move them anyway....I would like to fit at least p255 or P275's along with a decent slick...

I have a set of 15x8 with 5 1/2 backspace "Welds" and a b-body 8 3/4 I was going to put in my 67 cuda.

jim
 
5.5" backspacing will be to much. You could get away with 5" but the 5.5" will put the tire in to the springs.

IM000530.jpg
 
AdamR said:
5.5" backspacing will be to much. You could get away with 5" but the 5.5" will put the tire in to the springs.
Click to expand...


Do you mean before or after I move the springs with the offset shackle kit?

The Prostars in 15x8 only come in 0 offset which will put the backspacing at 4.5 or 25 offset which would put the backspacing at 5.5. So I think I should go with the 4.5 backspacing.

Did you see Longgone's cuda with the 275 tire without any mods?
 
5.5" is to much even with the springs moved. It will hit the springs and probably the wheel wells. Longgones are 4.25" with out moving the springs. I would move the springs and use the 4.5" backspacing or you can look in to a rim like the Centerline Telastar that comes in a 5" backspacing.
 
ADAMR

Don't get the wrong idea here I'm not interested in starting trouble but in a different thread you said 5.5 backspace would fit...

Now I'm in the above post you were talking about an a-body rearend with 5.5 backspace and the tires won't clear...

In this thread I was talking about a b-body rearend in an A-body car with 5.5 backspace and you said they would fit.... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=24222

I'm a little confused but.....
 
Thats with a B body rear which is wider, with an a body rear they will be to deep.
 
With a stock A-body rear with the offset shackle kit in an early a-body I can run a 15x8 with 5.5" backspace. I'm currently having my wheels custom widened to 15x7.5 with 5" BS because it will cause the section width to be just a little bit smaller than a 15x8 rim. It drops the 275 series tire section width from 11.3 to 11.1. This would give me less than 1 inch to play with on each side. That is cutting it really close for my comfort and safety level. I may need some very thin spacers to push the wheel out towards the wheel lip to even things out due to the offset on my wheel, which I think is around 5-10mm. I may not be trimming or rolling my wheel openings because I have trim on my Signet. If I think it is possible I may trim the molding and the lip 1/4 in. Not sure if it's worth the effort yet.

The other thing you have to account for is that the spring perches were not always perfectly centered on the axles. When you weld on the new spring perches you can get it pretty close to exact. Mine is about 1/8 inch off side-to-side. I think you will have a much easier time getting 275s to fit in your later a-body than myself or '64 Cuda in a 64-66 a-body.

The offset kit was really easy but does require some cutting of the frame rails to clear the welded nut on the front hanger that sits against/into the frame rail. I like having more wiggle room and a 255 will have zero issues in my car. The 275 in my car???? the jury is still out until I get my wheels back.

The nut is inside the frame rail in this picture.
47b7ce36b3127ccebec245b5d95f00000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg

You do weld new perches on for those that asked
47b7ce09b3127ccebf0e7c0a9ed900000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg

This was a 205/60/15 with 3" BS. I have an extra 2 3/4 inches before I hit the springs.
47b7ce09b3127ccebf0f8ee3be0500000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg
 
15x8x5bs I trimmed the wheel well lip a little.I was going to do the frame rail kit and mini tubs but the car hooks as is,1.57 60 ft time so I am going to leave it alone now.
 
Thanks Dave for the write up. I need all the info I can get. I didn't know I am going to have to cut the frame to clear the nut. Now I will be ready for that.

My friend said that I will have remove the axle altogether to get a good weld on the both side of the perches. I thought I would do one side at a time therefore nothing moves because one side will be mounted at all times. But then I think this would be a excellant time to clean everything up and do some painting. I guess I could do some marking before I take anything loose. How did you do yours?
 
mullinax95 said:
Thanks Dave for the write up. I need all the info I can get. I didn't know I am going to have to cut the frame to clear the nut. Now I will be ready for that.

My friend said that I will have remove the axle altogether to get a good weld on the both side of the perches. I thought I would do one side at a time therefore nothing moves because one side will be mounted at all times. But then I think this would be a excellant time to clean everything up and do some painting. I guess I could do some marking before I take anything loose. How did you do yours?
Click to expand...

I lined everything up exactly where I wanted it and tightened the u-bolts onto the new spring perches and put a few tack welds on the spring perches once I was for sure everything was in place and I had the proper pinion angle measured. 3* is about right. Then I pulled everything back out and did the welding. Almost impossible to do it with the axle installed. Besides you can clean everything like you said. BE CAREFUL to keep the frame and springs supported with a jack and stands when you cut the old u-bolts off. Easiest to cut them with an angle grinder because you should never re-use U-bolts.

Doing some marking is not going to make any difference. You line everything up with the springs themselves when the new offset front hangers and offset shackles are installed. Then you just bump it side to side, then the differential up and down to get everything in place and measured out. This is a good time to set you wheels back 1" inch if you choose to do so. May requires drilling holes in the shock mount plates.

Good luck

Have fun.
 
daves66valiant said:
I lined everything up exactly where I wanted it and tightened the u-bolts onto the new spring perches and put a few tack welds on the spring perches once I was for sure everything was in place and I had the proper pinion angle measured. 3* is about right. Then I pulled everything back out and did the welding. Almost impossible to do it with the axle installed. Besides you can clean everything like you said. BE CAREFUL to keep the frame and springs supported with a jack and stands when you cut the old u-bolts off. Easiest to cut them with an angle grinder because you should never re-use U-bolts.

Doing some marking is not going to make any difference. You line everything up with the springs themselves when the new offset front hangers and offset shackles are installed. Then you just bump it side to side, then the differential up and down to get everything in place and measured out. This is a good time to set you wheels back 1" inch if you choose to do so. May requires drilling holes in the shock mount plates.

Good luck

Have fun.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. That will be the way I'll do it then. Did you have to order the new U bolts or can get them at the near by parts house?
 
Mopar muscle mag did a write up a couple years ago .Try to find it alot of good tips.If you need more pics or info just pm me .:dink:
 
mullinax95 said:
Thanks for the info. That will be the way I'll do it then. Did you have to order the new U bolts or can get them at the near by parts house?
Click to expand...

Any good driveline shop should have them. You could order them too.
 
What's the best way to remove the old spring perches? I have an angle grinder. Don't have a "heat wrench" but I might be able to round one up.
 
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