Spring Relocation

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The rod is same size as the bolt that goes through spring eye.

If you have a 1/2 or 5/8 eye bolt, that's the size rod you use.
 
Ok thanks rob how do I know what size? By the bolt size on the spring? But doesnt the shackle go through there?
 
Ok thanks rob how do I know what size? By the bolt size on the spring? But doesnt the shackle go through there?

Yeah but the other end of the shakle bolts to the frame rail. That's where you need the tube. inside the frame rail to keep it from crushing when you tighten the shakle up.
 
The rear tube is either 7/8 or 1" I can't recall

It depends on the bushing size in the rear spring spring.
 
The rear tube is either 7/8 or 1" I can't recall

It depends on the bushing size in the rear spring spring.

Ummm....what??


avatar1969_1.gif
 
It's 7/8" or 1" ID

So pick a piece of tube that that has an appropriate ID for the OD of your bushing.
 
I think its Crackedbacks lil' GIF screwing with our minds
 
So you guys drilled yours out? The one on BBD they used a hole saw and or a die grinder. It says there are a set of stock holes you can enlarge and put your tube in.
 
Bushing size depends on what springs you are using. You need a bushing with an id for the size bolt used for the rear hanger to shackle bolt. Yes you use the existing hole and enlarge it for the bushing your using for your shackle bolts, as in the sent pic you can reinforce it with a large washer. Most relocation kits come with the rear bushing unless your making your own kit. Just make sure your bushing matches your shackle bolts.
 
One thing you will want to check is that your body was fabricated with the springs at the same location front to back. I have done many of these and the only cars that were close was 340 or HP. cars. Six cars and 318 cars were usually off. Did you ever see a car trying to do a burn out and the car keeps going to the same side. Take measurements front the front suspension to the rear to make sure your springs were tracking correct from the factory. K-member bolt to torsion cross member to spring mount to shackle mount. Get ready for a surprise.

You can use spacers to put the front perch in the correct spot. then you can use them to locate your weld in boxes. Also this would be a good time to move the rear back 1/2 inch for more tire clearance in the front of the quarter. I moved mine back a 1/2 inch and moved the lip front 3/4 and got 29's on the car. I can still put wheel well molding on if I want.

These are just tips you don't have to do them. Also make sure your rear shackles angle back away from the rear. From the top they should angle back to the bottom to allow the leafs to work. When I move my springs back 1/2 inch my rear shackles with ss springs ended up correct as per the Direct connection chassis manual with out using stepped shackles. I may have to make corrections when I install Cal- tracs split monos

Measure several times and weld once. This is not something you want to rush. Like I said did you ever watch a burn out contest and see cars that actually cannot keep the car from trying to spin around or even at the track. A lot of bodies are made out of square . Just look at the under side of some cars including yours and see where the leaf spring mount is welded on in reference to the hole in the bottom of frame from one side to the other side. also measure from the front spring eye hole to the rear shackle mount they should be Identical. Good chance they are not. Things like this is what has to be corrected on many production cars.

Bodies in white as they were called were near perfect when measured. as were all SS cars. Good luck , hope I wasn’t to late for you to check things.

Also drill extra holes in the boxes 1 inch higer and 1 inch lower to corect spring angle if you have to, or control height. Do the same thing to your shackles Moroso sells the shackle kits. these holes front and rear make your rear leafs adjustable angle and height as needed. Without using a chassis manual these mods you are doing will not be able to be fine tuned.Just a Thought of concern I thought I would pass on. Steve
 
One thing you will want to check is that your body was fabricated with the springs at the same location front to back. I have done many of these and the only cars that were close was 340 or HP. cars. Six cars and 318 cars were usually off. Did you ever see a car trying to do a burn out and the car keeps going to the same side. Take measurements front the front suspension to the rear to make sure your springs were tracking correct from the factory. K-member bolt to torsion cross member to spring mount to shackle mount. Get ready for a surprise.

You can use spacers to put the front perch in the correct spot. then you can use them to locate your weld in boxes. Also this would be a good time to move the rear back 1/2 inch for more tire clearance in the front of the quarter. I moved mine back a 1/2 inch and moved the lip front 3/4 and got 29's on the car. I can still put wheel well molding on if I want.

These are just tips you don't have to do them. Also make sure your rear shackles angle back away from the rear. From the top they should angle back to the bottom to allow the leafs to work. When I move my springs back 1/2 inch my rear shackles with ss springs ended up correct as per the Direct connection chassis manual with out using stepped shackles. I may have to make corrections when I install Cal- tracs split monos

Measure several times and weld once. This is not something you want to rush. Like I said did you ever watch a burn out contest and see cars that actually cannot keep the car from trying to spin around or even at the track. A lot of bodies are made out of square . Just look at the under side of some cars including yours and see where the leaf spring mount is welded on in reference to the hole in the bottom of frame from one side to the other side. also measure from the front spring eye hole to the rear shackle mount they should be Identical. Good chance they are not. Things like this is what has to be corrected on many production cars.

Bodies in white as they were called were near perfect when measured. as were all SS cars. Good luck , hope I wasn’t to late for you to check things.

Also drill extra holes in the boxes 1 inch higer and 1 inch lower to corect spring angle if you have to, or control height. Do the same thing to your shackles Moroso sells the shackle kits. these holes front and rear make your rear leafs adjustable angle and height as needed. Without using a chassis manual these mods you are doing will not be able to be fine tuned.Just a Thought of concern I thought I would pass on. Steve
Your right Steve,this was my biggest fear after doing the spring relocation boxes on my 66 Dart(going sideways while doing a burnout)Always measure before cutting(atleast 5X)I,ve been lucky with my car doing straight burnouts always.:thumbup:

Josh,when doing the rear hanger tubes I bought a small 90* drill with a 1 inch hole-saw bit.Was alot of fun drilling those out(limited room).My rear is moved back 1 inch to fit 29.5x12 slicks.Good Luck.
View attachment car pics 66 Dart 093.jpg

View attachment car pics 66 Dart 090.jpg

View attachment car pics 66 Dart 091.jpg

View attachment car pics 66 Dart 094.jpg

View attachment car pics 66 Dart 092.jpg
 
One thing you will want to check is that your body was fabricated with the springs at the same location front to back. I have done many of these and the only cars that were close was 340 or HP. cars. Six cars and 318 cars were usually off. Did you ever see a car trying to do a burn out and the car keeps going to the same side. Take measurements front the front suspension to the rear to make sure your springs were tracking correct from the factory. K-member bolt to torsion cross member to spring mount to shackle mount. Get ready for a surprise.

You can use spacers to put the front perch in the correct spot. then you can use them to locate your weld in boxes. Also this would be a good time to move the rear back 1/2 inch for more tire clearance in the front of the quarter. I moved mine back a 1/2 inch and moved the lip front 3/4 and got 29's on the car. I can still put wheel well molding on if I want.

These are just tips you don't have to do them. Also make sure your rear shackles angle back away from the rear. From the top they should angle back to the bottom to allow the leafs to work. When I move my springs back 1/2 inch my rear shackles with ss springs ended up correct as per the Direct connection chassis manual with out using stepped shackles. I may have to make corrections when I install Cal- tracs split monos

Measure several times and weld once. This is not something you want to rush. Like I said did you ever watch a burn out contest and see cars that actually cannot keep the car from trying to spin around or even at the track. A lot of bodies are made out of square . Just look at the under side of some cars including yours and see where the leaf spring mount is welded on in reference to the hole in the bottom of frame from one side to the other side. also measure from the front spring eye hole to the rear shackle mount they should be Identical. Good chance they are not. Things like this is what has to be corrected on many production cars.

Bodies in white as they were called were near perfect when measured. as were all SS cars. Good luck , hope I wasn’t to late for you to check things.

Also drill extra holes in the boxes 1 inch higer and 1 inch lower to corect spring angle if you have to, or control height. Do the same thing to your shackles Moroso sells the shackle kits. these holes front and rear make your rear leafs adjustable angle and height as needed. Without using a chassis manual these mods you are doing will not be able to be fine tuned.Just a Thought of concern I thought I would pass on. Steve


Ok so the distance from the front eye and to the rear mount needs to be the same center of hole to center of hole on each side correct? And if they weren’t from the factory I want to correct this now? I was going to use the rod method side to side to locate each box with each other like outlined in the BBD and from what Scott has told me.
 
Your right Steve,this was my biggest fear after doing the spring relocation boxes on my 66 Dart(going sideways while doing a burnout)Always measure before cutting(atleast 5X)I,ve been lucky with my car doing straight burnouts always.:thumbup:

Josh,when doing the rear hanger tubes I bought a small 90* drill with a 1 inch hole-saw bit.Was alot of fun drilling those out(limited room).My rear is moved back 1 inch to fit 29.5x12 slicks.Good Luck.
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Do you have any pics of the front?
 
I have a 74' Swinger i am going to do this to. I want to thank everyone for the pictures. One question though, in the hole where the new shackle will mount i have a bumper bolt that goes there on the inside of the frame. Has anyone ran into this with an newer dart like mine? Its because of the bumper shocks but just curious of anyone knows a good way around this? Thanks and sorry to Hjack

Floyd
 
Ok still on this subject here. Moving the rear back 1" with a dana 60 has anyone done this?
I,ve moved my rear back in my car(66Dart)Josh you can drill extra holes up or down,back or forward.Just make sure you measure 10X before drilling.Figure where you want your rear to sit(make sure rear hangers AREN,T pushed to far back)this is why I say an extra hole,so you can choose which one you like best for your setup.Your car is different than mine,being a newer model Scamp/Dart.Make sure to measure and measure again before tac welding the boxes in place(You can always cut grind tacs and move an re-tac)Good Luck.:happy7:
 
Yeah scott.. I have mine cut out. I have my location for my front holes. I am dropping them off tomorrow to get drilled and have the washers welded to the holes. Im having both correct location and 1" back drilled
 
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