SS Slant Six Dart

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TXDart said:
Great job!
Personally.I thought that your 4.88's were going to kill your mph and I thought your 60 ft would be better...
You proved me wrong on the mph.You are chipping away at your time consistently.
Great job and can not wait for your next improvement,
Time to change your signature with your new time!!!
13's are around the corner !!!
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well i think 13's should have happened today with our 1000ft DA but there is always the next TNT... the numbers arn't what i wanted but i get them right...

Bill Dedman said:
I think that's a really good 60-foot time for your mph and e.t., and yes, I realize that with the engine not running up to its potential, (due to "shooting ducks")your quarter mile times (and most incremental times) weren't as fast as they should and, will be.

Your efforts are paying off and are getting the chassis sorted out to the point that when and if you ever put some significantly greater horsepower in that car, it's gonna really fly...

I think you know what I mean....


:wack:
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lol bill....
 
Looks like she is liften the front end good. 3rd pic shows good traction with the tires. I hope someday I can get mine down in the 14's.
 
needsaresto said:
Thanks Bill for that labour saver! I will for sure end up making something like that. I really like the fact one can adjust the angle of the whole machined face when you get it close to the axle. That bolt up top is a great touch!
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Thanks for the kind words!

The pinion snubber pad has (if I remember correctly... and I hardly ever do...) three bolt holes; if you drill the two rear matching holes in the "installation tool" (that are "pivot holes"), a little "loose" (7/16"? 3/8" bolts) and don't cinch them up tight, the front bolt can be used to "rock" the third member and adjust the face angle (up and down) to match the angle of the matching face on the housing. Then, assuming the housing has been rotated (clockwise/coulnter-clockwise) so that the bolt holes line up, you just slide it into place. No lifting of any kind...

I made a "sling" out of a thick plastic tool pouch (had to add some eyelets) to raise the third member onto the "installation tool," and raise the sling with a hand-crank winch, mounted to the top (horizontal) piece of a small, 4-foot ladder... I put casters on the 4 legs of the ladder to give it "mobility."

If you need me to send you dimensions, just email me at

[email protected]

and I'll measure the pertinent pieces and send you the information.

But, it's such a simple "tool," you probably won't need that....

Here are some pictures of the "sling," because it's an important part of the whole "back-saver deal"...

Let me know if you need any further info.... anybody.
 

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Now the only thing I need to overcome when laying underneath a car is a really bad tendancy to nap...
 
Bill Dedman said:
Thanks for the kind words!

The pinion snubber pad has (if I remember correctly... and I hardly ever do...) three bolt holes; if you drill the two rear matching holes in the "installation tool" (that are "pivot holes"), a little "loose" (7/16"? 3/8" bolts) and don't cinch them up tight, the front bolt can be used to "rock" the third member and adjust the face angle (up and down) to match the angle of the matching face on the housing. Then, assuming the housing has been rotated (clockwise/coulnter-clockwise) so that the bolt holes line up, you just slide it into place. No lifting of any kind...

I made a "sling" out of a thick plastic tool pouch (had to add some eyelets) to raise the third member onto the "installation tool," and raise the sling with a hand-crank winch, mounted to the top (horizontal) piece of a small, 4-foot ladder... I put casters on the 4 legs of the ladder to give it "mobility."

If you need me to send you dimensions, just email me at

[email protected]

and I'll measure the pertinent pieces and send you the information.

But, it's such a simple "tool," you probably won't need that....

Here are some pictures of the "sling," because it's an important part of the whole "back-saver deal"...

Let me know if you need any further info.... anybody.
Click to expand...

What a great cover and well fabricated.
 
65dartcharger said:
What a great cover and well fabricated.
Click to expand...

Thank you, sir.... I appreciate the kindness very much!

Those third members just seemed to get heavier and heavier every year. sigh...

I needed a "cheater"... so, I figured this was as good as I could come up with.

The only modification to the (cheap-***) Harbor Freight transmission jack was to drill two 3/8" holes in the top surface to keep the part I built from sliding around. I just put two bolts the top part I built and ran them down into the platform of the jack, and it's solid.... no unwanted movement.

Thanks for your interest.
 
ok got some work done this morning!

pulled the dizzy to have it loosened up more (was bleeding around at idle)

removed the fuel log and fuel inlet fittings

rail had restrictions to as small as 1/4"

fuel inlets were almost a 9/32

so i drilled everything out to 9/32

also painted a good strip on the slick for tire spin eval's
 

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Good job. You're even gettin me pumped up over it. lol
 
Look out!! The ole man Rob is gonna git up and going! Wont be surprised to see a buziin half dozen wake up soon..
 
Thank you for a great thread :glasses7: I have been enjoying it very much :burnout:
great move on locating and fixing the restricted gas supply :glasses7:
 
memike said:
Thank you for a great thread :glasses7: I have been enjoying it very much :burnout:
great move on locating and fixing the restricted gas supply :glasses7:
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yea i dont think it helped having it restricted but i dont think its the complete issue
 
ok so was messing with the dart today! i installed the holley red pump that MARK ETHERIDGE (MadMax/6) sent for an Xmas present!

anyways... i up jetted like at the track (69/75) and removed the air cleaner and went for a ride...

well instead of it starting at 5400 it is now at 5800 in second, nothing in first...

so i borrowed my bosses remote fuel pressure gauge, drilled the rail out to 15/64's (there wasn't enough meat for 5/16) and drilled the fuel inlets to 5/16. lastly the 3/8 inlet is only a 5/16 so i think that might be the issue... so im looking into a new rail...

so i went for another cruize...

so with the engine off the pressure was 6psi steady
with running it was about 8psi
driving down the road normally it was from 8-9psi
on full throttle run it went from 9 down to 6 at the launch, then back up to 8, i short shifted 1st cuz i was focused on the fuel gauge, in second it dropped to about 5 or 5.5 in the middle of second and slowly climbed till i shifted again where it was around 7 again...

sorry for the long post lol... but im gonna look into a new fuel rail and should be done with the issue...
 

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looks good, i went with an xrp fuel rail. very nice quality and made in the usa! its got braided -6 line and the openings in the fittings all flair on the insides for smooth transition.
 
slantscamp said:
looks good, i went with an xrp fuel rail. very nice quality and made in the usa! its got braided -6 line and the openings in the fittings all flair on the insides for smooth transition.
Click to expand...

have a link? kinda tight on money so 50 might be it lol
 
ok here is some new! still battling the shooting ducks issue as you've seen on my other thread...

but anyways!

both seats are in!

and the rear divider just needs paint and do-dad's!
 

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divider painted and mini-placs rivited!

also finally got the upper hood molding on...
 

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805moparkid said:
and thanks for that!

but yea now i just need to paint the grill so its somewhat even lol:banghead:
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Anytime!! Yes I noticed the grill needs redone but 1 step at a time. Most of my extra parts are off a 69 but if you have trouble finding anything let me know and I will look around up here.

~Michael
 
ok so i got the car scaled today! a good friend how is a road race/chassis wizard let use his scales to see whats going on and here is what i got!

first with me not in it...


1472 Front 1372
822 767
​
605 650

W/ Me

1515 Front 1557
894 809
706 663

the numbers on either side of the "front" are cross weights... the rest are corner weights

the car has a 55/45 biased so if i get the ballast in it for D/G (3200lbs) then i will be within a 150lbs of 50/50!

so im thinkin a set bag of quickcrete and some rocksalt...lol
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If you have an old /6 Valve cover and you want to alter weight in your Dart, oil down the inside and fill it with concrete and put any kind of reinforcement in it, stick a couple pencils in each end some where so you can wallow out a hole to bolt it down, Don't use to much water and tamper/vibrate it let it set up pop it out and there you have it.
I bet you would be surprised how heavy a /6 solid concrete valve cover is.
This is an old dirt track trick
 
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