stalling out

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micboroff

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i just rebuilt a 360 put 484 284 cam. Balanced crank piston. put 650 holley new distributor 340 202 heads.My problem is starts up great idles good go to put it in ears falls flat on its face and dies.Turn up idle but then in park its idling at 1800 rpm to keep it running in gear. what can I do to resolve this issue,
 
Needs a stall converter.and about twenty degrees initial timing ....
 
should have mentioned it has 2800 stall. and timing is set at 18 to 20 degrees
 
Check at brake booster. You put your foot on the brake when you change gears. May be sucking air there.
 
Something really doesn't sound right there. What happens if you pull it from park or neutral to drive with the brakes off?
 
I have a similar issue so I am curious to see how this pans out. @micboroff let me know if you diagnose the problem.
 
Find a buddy with a known good carb. Sometimes it's just a p.o.s. carb giving you fits. Warped plates, clogged holes, loose shafts, etc.
 
If you are CERTAIN the timing is right and the distributor advance is working, I'd try a different carb....................

Pull the carb and look at the ide transfer, what do the idle mixture screws do?

Did you degree the cam?
 
micboroff said:
starts up great idles good go to put it in ears falls flat on its face and dies.Turn up idle but then in park its idling at 1800 rpm to keep it running in gear. what can I do to resolve this issue,
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80fbody said:
Find a buddy with a known good carb. Sometimes it's just a p.o.s. carb giving you fits. Warped plates, clogged holes, loose shafts, etc.
Click to expand...

If it starts up well, and idles well and at 1800 it stalls when put in gear. That really perplexes me. I'm almost wondering if there is an issue with the tranny?
 
It ain't running well if it needs to be at 1800rpms to get it to drop in gear without stalling. Either vacuum leak or junk carb.
 
Try some Rhoades lifters. i ran them in my 340 with the same cam. Before the lifters, it idles choppy at 1100 rpm, after Rhoades lifters it idles smoother at 800 than it did with standard lifters at 1100 rpm.

I agree, look for a vacuum problem. If you remove the intake, consider a set of Rhoades lifters, they work. You will get better idle, more vacuum at idle, and more low and mid range power without sacrificing your top end power.
 
going to get new distributor I really believe vacum advance is not working.I have checked for leaks even bought better intake gaskets along with carb gaskets. Then If that dont work gonna buy a chevy lmao kidding.Thanks so much for all the input you guys are awesome.
 
Keep the vacuum advance e out of the circuit don't hook it up till u get all the bugs out.it is not your problem. its probably carb or vacuum leek. i had the same problem and it was the carburetor.
 
WIll it idle down to a normal rpm in park? As in let's say 800-1000RPm?

I wouldn't run vacum advance at all. Set the initial and total where you want and that's it. Everyone talks about crap gas and detonation and then they run or advise people to run aggressive timing and timing curves often with vacum advance.
 
micboroff said:
going to get new distributor I really believe vacum advance is not working.I have checked for leaks even bought better intake gaskets along with carb gaskets. Then If that dont work gonna buy a chevy lmao kidding.Thanks so much for all the input you guys are awesome.
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I do not run vacuum advance with my 340 with the 484/284 MP cam. I run just centrifical advance 17° initIal and 34° total advance. I also recurved the distributor with one "stock" MP light spring and one of the light springs from the recurve kit.
 
99% time this issue is either tuning or a carb that needs a rebuild. A new distributor won't probably fix the issue. Just start at 10-12 degrees initial. Wouldn't worry about total until you get it to idle. If you don't feel you have a vacuum leak then you need to tune the carb to get it on the idle circuit. Do you know how to tune a holley? Make sure the mixture screws are clear & working. Then adjust for best vacuum with a gauge. There's more but this is how I'd start to tune a new combo.
 
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