Starter drain the battery dead???

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  • Volts.
  • Factory starter relay.
  • Big Stud
FINALLY, A BREAK !!! I pulled the starter relay wires off one at a time (except the main battery cable) and when I pulled the starter cable off the relay, the Meter read 000.00

  • I'm certain nothing is on such as a radio, tach light, or brake lights. Nothing.
  • As mentioned in the first post, I pulled all the fuses. I even disconnected the connectors under the hood that would pull apart. Everything. The only thing that let the meter read zeros was when the main starter cable was disconnected.

Willrun, Lets work on our descriptions so we are all talking about the same thing.
@67Dart273 is right on the money in post #23 but we need to be using terms we all understand to mean the same thing.

Volts. There was a voltage differential between "between cable and battery post" post #1.
Volts drop when there is flow through resistance, that is true. So there would seem to be current flowing. But other than that, we are all struggling to figure out what two points the red and blacktest leads were touching.

Starter cable is usually the 6 to 2 gage cable one going from the battery positive to the starter.
The 10 or 12 gage wire from battery positive to the starter relay, is main battery feed for everything else. Not a starter cable.
The 14 gage wire from the relay to the starter solenoid could be called the starter solenoid feed or something equally clear.

My suggestion is to do what Del sugested. Put a test light between a battery post and its cable. With key off, door closed, etc. it should not light. If its bright, there is a big drain. start hunting. If its not so bright, or not seeing anyhting then you can change the multimeer to AMPs or microamps. Then place the ammeter in line. That is let the power run through it. Some meters will not be able to handle AMPS. Those that do can usually only handle about 10 amps for a short period. They have a fuse. A slow drain is probably less than amp but best to assume higher until you know otehrwise. Unless you like buying new meters.. LOL

Volt measurements are between two points in a circuit. You do this when looking for power, continuity, or resisitance when current is flowing. For the last you have to know where the current is flowing or is not too helpful.

It is worth check if your van has a very similar wiring to that of a-bodies through 74, and I've seen that on some later 70s trucks, but it may not be so.
 
I've not heard of a starter pulling power while a vehicle is off. Is this a thing??
Yes it is a thing.

Two years ago I had trouble with another car - Ford Falcon - 6-cyl car. If not used for a week, the battery would die off to the point where starting was nearly impossible. Of course, I blamed the battery, and after spending another $200 local money....I was proven wrong.

Without testing, I decided that the starter must be the cause of the parasitic draw. So I arranged to have it replaced. Upon removal and subsequent opening up of the original starter motor, a large amount of carbon dust was found inside. This explains the draw....the carbon was sufficient in quantity and coverage to actually provide a path for the voltage to track from the solenoid through to ground - causing a reasonable draw of current.

New starter motor was fitted, car leapt into life, and now the car can be left for a month, and it sounds like it was last used the day before.

So, yes, a starter motor can be the parasitic draw, and a substantial one at that.

Here's a picture of the car taken by a local enthusiast......

1694979833530.png
 

Put a test light between a battery post and its cable. With key off, door closed, etc. it should not light. If its bright, there is a big drain. start hunting.
Yes, I put the red/black between the battery post and it's cable. All closed, everything off, even pulled the fuses one by one and still pulled power. I thought I stated it clear in post one. Tried another vehicle that the battery does NOT go dead, and the reading was all zeros. So, as you stated, I started hunting and the only thing I found was the starter. Disconnect the starter wire at the relay and boom! All zeros
 
Yes it is a thing.

Two years ago I had trouble with another car - Ford Falcon - 6-cyl car. If not used for a week, the battery would die off to the point where starting was nearly impossible. Of course, I blamed the battery, and after spending another $200 local money....I was proven wrong.

Without testing, I decided that the starter must be the cause of the parasitic draw. So I arranged to have it replaced. Upon removal and subsequent opening up of the original starter motor, a large amount of carbon dust was found inside. This explains the draw....the carbon was sufficient in quantity and coverage to actually provide a path for the voltage to track from the solenoid through to ground - causing a reasonable draw of current.

New starter motor was fitted, car leapt into life, and now the car can be left for a month, and it sounds like it was last used the day before.

So, yes, a starter motor can be the parasitic draw, and a substantial one at that.

Here's a picture of the car taken by a local enthusiast......

View attachment 1716142932
Thanks! Even though I put the starter on new, it seems to me that the draining kind of started around the starter installation. Didn't draw the connection till it showed to be drawing power. I'll try another starter when I get a chance.
 
To me, I can swap a starter in about 8 minutes on it. If that stops the draw, then I'm good. That was my question in the 1st post, can a starter drain the battery dead while sitting. I've not had that ever. Alternators, yes. But not a starter.
 
To me, I can swap a starter in about 8 minutes on it. If that stops the draw, then I'm good. That was my question in the 1st post, can a starter drain the battery dead while sitting. I've not had that ever. Alternators, yes. But not a starter.
Test it first. Disconnect the larger cable from the starter first and make sure everything else is still connected. If it still has the draw disconnect the small solenoid trigger wire from the starter. If it still has a draw the starter cannot be the cause because it is completely disconnected.
When you test this, use a test light between the battery negative post and the negative cable. On this vehicle, the light should not come on at all, or at least turn off within ten seconds of connecting it with ignition turned off. I would personally use a meter instead of a test light and have it selected to the ten amp scale for measuring amperage. This vehicle will show less than 25 milliamps if everything is working correctly. The draw should not be anywhere near ten amps since it takes a few days to go dead, so the ten amp scale is fine here.
 
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