Starter Relay Wiring for Aftermarket harness?

[fbcuda69]

I am in the process of installing an aftermarket wiring harness kit from Ron Francis and I'm not quite sure if how I have the starter relay wired up is okay?

Briefly, the R.F. instructions would have me sending a total of 5 wires (including battery + cable) to the starter battery post, which I didn't feel was the most effective and safest option (since no fusing of any of the wires were mentioned).

What I did instead was run 3 MIDI fuses on three of the lines (50 amps for battery feed coming out of fuse box, 50 amps for ignition switch power solenoid, and 80 amps for alternator wire). These three lines were then connected to the "BAT" post on the starter relay instead of starter post.

The 69 wiring diagram has the main battery positive cable (2-4 gauge wire) going directly to the starter battery post (obvious), but also has a 10 gauge short wire that goes from the battery positive post to the starter relay "BAT" post.

My set up would then have 4 wires running from the starter relay "BAT" post as described above. (I already know how the other wires hook up on starter relay so that is not an issue. Also, I do know that having 4 wires on one stud can develop some resistance, so I will consider a power stud option, if the need arises)

My major question/dilemma is in the R.F. wiring instructions they have a "starter relay wire" that would run from the starter relay "BAT" post to the starter battery post, but no wiring coming off the battery positive post to the starter relay post, like in the original 69 wiring diagram.

Do I still need to run a wire from the starter relay "BAT" post to the starter solenoid battery post or can I just run the short 10 gauge wire (like factory) from battery positive post to starter relay "BAT" post, as I have outlined above? If it does matter, which wiring option would be the best way to go (please explain in detail) or do I need to run both? (if so, why? I would really hate to have 5 wires going to relay "bat")

I am running aftermarket electronic gauges and with the new wiring harness, the bulkhead/ammeter wiring is no longer used.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[67Dart273]

I am in the process of installing an aftermarket wiring harness kit from Ron Francis and I'm not quite sure if how I have the starter relay wired up is okay?

Briefly, the R.F. instructions would have me sending a total of 5 wires (including battery + cable) to the starter battery post, which I didn't feel was the most effective and safest option (since no fusing of any of the wires were mentioned).

What I did instead was run 3 MIDI fuses on three of the lines (50 amps for battery feed coming out of fuse box, 50 amps for ignition switch power solenoid, and 80 amps for alternator wire). These three lines were then connected to the "BAT" post on the starter relay instead of starter post.

The 69 wiring diagram has the main battery positive cable (2-4 gauge wire) going directly to the starter battery post (obvious), but also has a 10 gauge short wire that goes from the battery positive post to the starter relay "BAT" post.

My set up would then have 4 wires running from the starter relay "BAT" post as described above. (I already know how the other wires hook up on starter relay so that is not an issue. Also, I do know that having 4 wires on one stud can develop some resistance, so I will consider a power stud option, if the need arises)

My major question/dilemma is in the R.F. wiring instructions they have a "starter relay wire" that would run from the starter relay "BAT" post to the starter battery post, but no wiring coming off the battery positive post to the starter relay post, like in the original 69 wiring diagram.

Do I still need to run a wire from the starter relay "BAT" post to the starter solenoid battery post or can I just run the short 10 gauge wire (like factory) from battery positive post to starter relay "BAT" post, as I have outlined above? If it does matter, which wiring option would be the best way to go (please explain in detail) or do I need to run both? (if so, why? I would really hate to have 5 wires going to relay "bat")

I am running aftermarket electronic gauges and with the new wiring harness, the bulkhead/ammeter wiring is no longer used.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

There is no reason why you cannot wire it much like original.

RF has to have a "start" signal coming through the bulkhead, meant (Fords/GM) to "fire" the starter solenoid directly

So take whatever that wire is, and connect to one of the push-on connectors on your mopar start relay

If you have an auto or clutch safety, run a wire from the neutral safety switch up over the back of the trans, along with the backup switch wires, and connect the center NSS terminal of that switch to the remaining push-on connector of the start relay

Run your no10 from the "big square" terminal of the start relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid

It does not really matter all that much if you run the battery main first to the starter, or first to the relay, so long as there's a big jumper between the starter "big stud" and the start relay

One thing RF does not seem to address is the ignition bypass circuit. I say the easiest thing there is to do just as Mopar did it to start with--run a yellow wire from the ign2 (bypass) terminal of the ignition switch through the bulkhead, to the + side of the coil

You need to think carefully about your fuse choices. 80A may be too small for some alternators, but MAKE SURE that the wire is large enough. You don't want a huge fuse, and wire so small that the wire burns up before the fuse blows

What do you mean by "50 amps for ignitio power solenoid?"

 

[clhyer]

I wired mine up like the R.F. instructions called for. Just about the last item is that power stud that was provided in the kit. That caused me to re-route some wires...
I can't tell you if it works yet, I haven't started my car. All the lights, though, work as they should.
I am confused as to why you are putting in all the extra fuses and trying to wire it up according to the factory schematics. You paid good money for the R.F. kit, you at least should try to wire it the R.F. way before doing all these changes. jmho.
C

 

[fbcuda69]

There is no reason why you cannot wire it much like original.

RF has to have a "start" signal coming through the bulkhead, meant (Fords/GM) to "fire" the starter solenoid directly

So take whatever that wire is, and connect to one of the push-on connectors on your mopar start relay

If you have an auto or clutch safety, run a wire from the neutral safety switch up over the back of the trans, along with the backup switch wires, and connect the center NSS terminal of that switch to the remaining push-on connector of the start relay

Run your no10 from the "big square" terminal of the start relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid

It does not really matter all that much if you run the battery main first to the starter, or first to the relay, so long as there's a big jumper between the starter "big stud" and the start relay

One thing RF does not seem to address is the ignition bypass circuit. I say the easiest thing there is to do just as Mopar did it to start with--run a yellow wire from the ign2 (bypass) terminal of the ignition switch through the bulkhead, to the + side of the coil

You need to think carefully about your fuse choices. 80A may be too small for some alternators, but MAKE SURE that the wire is large enough. You don't want a huge fuse, and wire so small that the wire burns up before the fuse blows

What do you mean by "50 amps for ignitio power solenoid?"

On the R.F. kit there is a 10 gauge wire that runs from the "B"(power) terminal on the ignition switch and would connect to the starter solenoid. (This wire in the R.F. kit does not run through the fuse block). I have been told and have read that this wire should be fused and, as stated, I chose to run it to the starter relay "Bat" instead.

It's funny you mention the IGN2 bypass wire that for some reason R.F. does omit. I already have taken a wire and hooked it up just like you had stated. I had discussed this same omission with another fellow forum poster about a week or two ago. I don't understand why they would not even mention this in the instructions about the possibility of adding an extra wire. I have a stock coil for my ECU and it requires the use of a ballast resistor, which R.F. does not really take into consideration, in my opinion. Thanks for your help

 

[fbcuda69]

There is no reason why you cannot wire it much like original.

RF has to have a "start" signal coming through the bulkhead, meant (Fords/GM) to "fire" the starter solenoid directly

So take whatever that wire is, and connect to one of the push-on connectors on your mopar start relay

If you have an auto or clutch safety, run a wire from the neutral safety switch up over the back of the trans, along with the backup switch wires, and connect the center NSS terminal of that switch to the remaining push-on connector of the start relay

Run your no10 from the "big square" terminal of the start relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid

It does not really matter all that much if you run the battery main first to the starter, or first to the relay, so long as there's a big jumper between the starter "big stud" and the start relay

One thing RF does not seem to address is the ignition bypass circuit. I say the easiest thing there is to do just as Mopar did it to start with--run a yellow wire from the ign2 (bypass) terminal of the ignition switch through the bulkhead, to the + side of the coil

You need to think carefully about your fuse choices. 80A may be too small for some alternators, but MAKE SURE that the wire is large enough. You don't want a huge fuse, and wire so small that the wire burns up before the fuse blows

What do you mean by "50 amps for ignitio power solenoid?"

Just trying to make sure I understand a part of what you said correctly. I can omit the small 10 gauge wire from the battery positive to the starter relay "BAT" post. I would then just have a 2-4 gauge large wire running from battery positive directly to the starter. Then I would hook, as you would call it a big jumper wire, from that same starter battery post (as 2- 4 gauge wire is on) and run it to the starter relay "BAT" post, correct? If not, please explain. Also, does that jumper wire need to be fused or is it better not to? What gauge wire would you recommend and what amp fuse if needed? I have a 6 gauge I could use for a jumper.

 

[67Dart273]

If you run the main batt cable directly to the starter, then the jumper to the starter relay does not "have" to be any bigger than the largest other cable on the car, IE alternator charge cable, so no6 should be enough. It won't hurt to run no4. Because that part of the circuit is pretty "basic" it normally is not fused in any way.

Because no4 "starter" cables are easy to come by, this is probably the more usual type to use, but either way's OK.

 

[fbcuda69]

Got it, thanks!