Starting a BB Duster project

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Just asking.....when an engine is dyno tested, why not run it as it will be run in the car, ie, alternator, water pump, power steering pump (if using), ac (if using)? That should give a real number, right?
 
5.7 hemi said:
Just asking.....when an engine is dyno tested, why not run it as it will be run in the car, ie, alternator, water pump, power steering pump (if using), ac (if using)? That should give a real number, right?
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It isn't very practical to hook all of that stuff up on the dyno. Besides, nobody really cares about the 10 or 15 hp that the accessories consume, that isn't the point of the dyno test.
 
Agreed. I would like to see an engine dynoed with all its accessories that are going to be used in the car, just seems more accurate.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Agreed. I would like to see an engine dynoed with all its accessories that are going to be used in the car, just seems more accurate.
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If that is the way you like it done then that is how you should do it when you dyno your engines.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Just asking.....when an engine is dyno tested, why not run it as it will be run in the car, ie, alternator, water pump, power steering pump (if using), ac (if using)? That should give a real number, right?
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The REAL number on one dyno with be challenged by the next.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Just asking.....when an engine is dyno tested, why not run it as it will be run in the car, ie, alternator, water pump, power steering pump (if using), ac (if using)? That should give a real number, right?
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If you're looking for data on the extra load on your engine, you might as well include your drivetrain as well. There's no reason to care about your engine accessories if you're not going to take your trans/driveshaft/diff/wheels/axles into consideration too, and they'll likely draw much more power than your water pump and alternator. At that point though, you'd want a chassis dyno with the engine in the car, not an engine dyno.

Maybe later you'll remove the power steering, or you want to put AC on the car, or you slap a different tranny into it, but your flywheel horsepower is always going to be your engine's "theoretical max HP" before everything else is bolted on to reduce that number. Sometimes it's just nice to know the HP you started with!
 
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RockOutWithYourBlockOut said:
Not quite. Torque is the determining factor on engine load, not hp (even though yes, they're closely related). That's why a truck with 300hp would probably have no trouble towing a 3-ton trailer, when you definitely wouldnt try to tow that trailer with a 300hp civic.

An engine with higher torque is always going to handle more load than an engine with lower torque but comparable hp.
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My comment was regarding the amount of load caused by the fan. If it draws “30 HP” on one motor it’s going to draw 30 hp on another because of the amount of work it takes to turn the fan stays consistent.
 
5.7 hemi said:
What an ***!
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He makes a point.
Also, a good watch on this subject would be motor trend on demand, engine masters program where they answer a few questions through a few videos on fan power consumption and acc. drive.

It is very well worth the watch.
 
Since the car is all stripped down I've decided to just go ahead and get the front clip soda blasted and hit it with epoxy primer before putting it back together. Just figured why not do it now since it is all apart. If I put it back together unpainted it will always look ratty.
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Got the car back from soda blasting. The soda blaster company also shot it with an epoxy primer sealer. I'm looking around now to see if I can find a place to shoot it with a top coat since now is the time to do it. Everything is ready for assembly once the paint is finished.

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Thanks. We sprayed the front clip W1 white which is the correct white for a 1972 Duster. I didn't know that that the '72 white is actually cream colored until the car was in the booth. I guess I just assumed white was white. When the guy started spraying the car I was wondering what was going on. The paint looked brown under the lights in the booth. Still not sure I like the color but I suppose it is growing on me. It has a lot of yellow in it. I think they should've called it butter rather than white.
 
Well that’s a bit of a bummer. Last time I had a car painted I took the paint chip to the body shop. When I went to pick up the car I’m like wtf is that color supposed to be. Apparently different brands of paint are not ta perfect/ good match to the factory paint code. Kin
 
Yes, we painted it Spinnaker White which is actually a cream color or a very light yellow color. I was just assuming that the '72 Duster white color was white not cream. I guess I got fooled by the '71 color which is Sno-White which is a bright white. Not the end of the world, it is the original color so that is fine. The cream color isn't the worst choice. I have a friend with a Wimbledon White Mustang and it is also a cream color. I don't mind the cream color, it was just a bit of shock when the painter started to spray the car. I was expecting white and it looked beige or tan in the booth.
 
Now that the engine compartment is painted I can start in on the final assembly. It has all been together before so it should go together fairly easy this time.
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