Starts and then dies

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mopar4x4stroker

mopar4x4stroker

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Hey guys, I finally got my 408 in my 86 W150 but heres my problem. Right now it'll run on the "start" position but immediately dies in the "run" position. Its been converted from lean-burn to std mopar electonic ign with an orange module, 2 terminal ballast, 2wire dizzy.* Heres what happened, it ran fine for 20 min on break-in, and again for 10min to adjust the valves. After adj the valves, I started to tune (timing/idle/float level/idle mix) at which point it just died like I turned it off. Trying to restart it gave the same symptoms (stat/die) until the point where I had no spark (verified by remotely turning it over with the spark plug 40 thou from the manifold bolt).* So I stole the box (silver) from my 84 parts truck, nothing. I then went to napa and got a new silver box, and vroom it went. So after a 20min drive to see how it runs and a gas-up I came home to push my parts truck into my shop, which involved multiple pulling and pushing attempts. Anyway, just as I start pushing it inside, it started running rough to the point where I couldn't keep it idling. Apon several failed restarts I figured I got a defective box. I exchanged it for a black, and to no surprise it didn't remedy the problem. At this time I forgot about the ballast, so I bypassed it a vroom it went, so I figured it was the ballast all along so I pulled the one from my 84, yet still no runner. I figured coincidentally both box/ball where faulty so I got a new one just to make sure, unfortunately still nothing. I then checked if the blue/yellow "run" wire at the module had voltage, and it does. So at this point I'm stumped and would greatly appreciate any help. *** Much thanks!!!
 
Hey guys, I finally got my 408 in my 86 W150 but heres my problem. Right now it'll run on the "start" position but immediately dies in the "run" position. Its been converted from lean-burn to std mopar electonic ign with an orange module, 2 terminal ballast, 2wire dizzy.*
 
Heres what happened, it ran fine for 20 min on break-in, and again for 10min to adjust the valves. After adj the valves, I started to tune (timing/idle/float level/idle mix) at which point it just died like I turned it off. Trying to restart it gave the same symptoms (stat/die) until the point where I had no spark (verified by remotely turning it over with the spark plug 40 thou from the manifold bolt).*
 
So I stole the box (silver) from my 84 parts truck, nothing. I then went to napa and got a new silver box, and vroom it went. So after a 20min drive to see how it runs and a gas-up I came home to push my parts truck into my shop, which involved multiple pulling and pushing attempts. Anyway, just as I start pushing it inside, it started running rough to the point where I couldn't keep it idling. Apon several failed restarts I figured I got a defective box. I exchanged it for a black, and to no surprise it didn't remedy the problem. At this time I forgot about the ballast, so I bypassed it a vroom it went, so I figured it was the ballast all along so I pulled the one from my 84, yet still no runner. I figured coincidentally both box/ball where faulty so I got a new one just to make sure, unfortunately still nothing. I then checked if the blue/yellow "run" wire at the module had voltage, and it does. So at this point I'm stumped and would greatly appreciate any help. Much thanks!!! :)***
 
If its wire right you will have direct voltage at crank and you should have at least Battery voltage on one side of your ballast. in run mode You could have a bad key switch. or wiring some were between.
 
Cudafever said:
If its wire right you will have direct voltage at crank and you should have at least Battery voltage on one side of your ballast. in run mode You could have a bad key switch. or wiring some were between.
Click to expand...

Would I still have voltage on the blue/yellow wire on the module if the key or ign switch was faulty? I only had a test light, but the left side was bright and left was dim :\.
 
I'm wondering if you (accidently?) bypassed the coil resistor?

Measure both sides of the ballast resistor, key on, engine off. Leave the meter hooked to the side with the highest reading, which is the side coming from the switch.

Now move the ground probe over to battery positive, IE the starter relay battery stud. You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better. Over .3V (3 tenths of one volt) means you have a voltage drop in the ignition harness

Next, remove the coil high tension wire from the dist. and ground it. Hook your meter to coil + and ground the other probe. Crank the engine USING THE KEY and read the meter with the engine cranking. You should see at least 10.5V, the higher the better, and in no case less than 10V

Next, leave the meter clipped to the coil+, and move the ground probe to the starter relay battery stud, and crank again, read the meter while engine is cranking. Here you are again hoping for a really low reading, the lower the better, and you want LESS than .3--.4V max. More means there is voltage drop in the IGN2 or "resistor bypass" circuit.

Last, clip one lead to the coil+ terminal, the other lead to ground and start the engine, if it will run. With the engine idling, you should see LESS than battery voltage, anywhere from 8V--11V or so

Last it would not hurt to check running/ charging battery voltage. If the battery is "normalized" that is the alternator has brought it "back up" and it's not half dead from all the cranking, running voltage (warm) should be 13.8---14.2, in no case less than 13.5, and not higher than 14.5

My guess is either you have very high battery voltage (defective regulator or wiring) or have somehow bypassed the coil resistor. CHECK THE COIL for excessive heat.

Some other routine checks:

Scrape the back of the ECU and the mating firewall area clean, use star washers, or run a no12 jumper wire from the block to one of the ECU bolts, and while you are at it, do the same with the voltage regulator

Remove all ign system connectors, IE the ECU, the coil resistor, and the distributor. Work them in/ out to scrub the terminals clean, and to feel for how tight they are.

Inspect the distributor reluctor/ pickup coil for rust, debri, strike damage, and check the dist. shaft for excessive play or wobble. Check the reluctor gap with a BRASS feeler ga. at .008" (inches, not mm)

Hook your meter on low AC volts (that's right AC) to the dist. connector and crank the engine. The dist. should generate about 1V AC

SUSPECT bad connections in the bulkhead connector.
 
I just see that you have "only a test light." With key on/ engine off, you should get a nice bright light "same as battery" on the switch side of the ballast, a dimmer light on the other. You really really NEED to get a multimeter. You can get one "good enough" for around 25 bucks at most parts stores or Radio Shack.
 
67dart273 said:
i just see that you have "only a test light." with key on/ engine off, you should get a nice bright light "same as battery" on the switch side of the ballast, a dimmer light on the other. you really really need to get a multimeter. You can get one "good enough" for around 25 bucks at most parts stores or radio shack.
Click to expand...

x2
 
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