Steering box got loose

[JoesEdge]

Hey all!

So, realized that the steering box was loose one evening because I heard a clunking sound. When I popped the hood and reached in to turn the wheel slightly to the right and back again, I was able to visibly see the steering box rocking a bit. It was too late in the evening to do anything about it, so I waited until the next day.

Next day I inspect the steering box again and can see that the two bolts closest to the engine block are loose. I jacked up the car in order to tighten the bolts.

Before doing so, I pulled the two loose bolts out for inspection. I noticed that the the bottom bolt didn't have a lock washer and it sure didn't look like any of the bolts I had salvaged from a 74 Valiant in the local wrecking yard. The top bolt had a nut, which I was surprised to see.

I compared the bottom bolt that I pulled out to one of the salvaged bolts and not only was the thread not the same, but the diameter was smaller on the bolt I pulled out. So, I took the salvaged bolt and threaded it into the mounting hole. It threaded in without any binding at all. I decided to use the salvaged bolts along with the factor lock washers.

I tightened all 3 bolts to 100 lbs, dropped the car, and checked for noise. The noise was gone and the steering box was no longer rocking, but I did noticed a tiny bit of flex. I'm assuming the K-member was flexing.

It it normal to see some flex there? Can something be done about that flex?

Another issue is that now the steering wheel is turned to the right in the 1 to 2 o'clock position.

I don't know if that's because the steering box was slightly twisted originally due to the smaller diameter bolt used, or because I tightened it down wrong. Any guesses?

Thanks!

 

[72bluNblu]

Flexing at the steering box mount is not uncommon (although it's not "normal" either), and the stock steering box mounts can and do crack. If the box is flexing about the mount is probably cracked. The steering box mount on my '74 Duster was cracked in several places where the welds gave up, and even the mount itself was cracked. The steering box flexed noticeably from side to side when the wheel was turned. If the wrong bolts were installed and the steering box has been moving around for awhile I would expect that you probably have some cracked welds at the steering box mount. The steering wheel is crooked now because the steering box isn't in the same place now as it was when your alignment was done.

I box in the entire steering box mount when I seam weld the K-frames on my cars to reinforce them.

Pictures of the steering box mount in my Duster (before I fixed it)

This one was already clamped and tacked in the picture, but the crack runs the whole length of the weld between the arrows. It would open up a good 1/4" when the wheel was turned.

Like a dummy I didn't take any pictures of the K frame after I boxed and reinforced it, but here's how I box in the steering mount. The card stock is the pattern for the 1/8" plate I use to box the mount in. Just a triangular shape for the bottom of the mount, kind of a triangle with a rounded upper section that gets folded over for the front.

 

[JoesEdge]

Right on! Thanks! So...after you boxed it in do you notice any flexing? Seems like a job where everything will need to come apart. Definitely not a weekend job. Ouch!

 

[MOPARMITCH]

Also... Use RED Loctite Threadlocker on the Bolts when you re install it.

 

[JoesEdge]

Also... Use RED Loctite Threadlocker on the Bolts when you re install it.

Will do. I plan to upgrade to Borgeson within the next few months, so when I do...I'll use the red stuff.

 

[72bluNblu]

Right on! Thanks! So...after you boxed it in do you notice any flexing? Seems like a job where everything will need to come apart. Definitely not a weekend job. Ouch!

No they're rock solid once they're boxed. And really if the flex is noticeable then something is probably cracked.

I'm not going to say you can't box the steering mount in with the K-frame still in the car, but it's a lot easier with it out. The engine is going to have to be out regardless. As far as a weekend job, probably not. If the car is all together you'll have to pull the engine, drop the suspension and K member, weld it all back up, and then reassemble the whole mess. I suppose you could probably just box the steering mount with it in the car with the engine out, but if I were doing it I'd just pull the whole thing and seam weld the K, gusset the torsion bar pivots and do the steering box mount all at once. It'll be a lot easier with the K sitting on a bench.

 

[JoesEdge]

No they're rock solid once they're boxed. And really if the flex is noticeable then something is probably cracked.

I'm not going to say you can't box the steering mount in with the K-frame still in the car, but it's a lot easier with it out. The engine is going to have to be out regardless. As far as a weekend job, probably not. If the car is all together you'll have to pull the engine, drop the suspension and K member, weld it all back up, and then reassemble the whole mess. I suppose you could probably just box the steering mount with it in the car with the engine out, but if I were doing it I'd just pull the whole thing and seam weld the K, gusset the torsion bar pivots and do the steering box mount all at once. It'll be a lot easier with the K sitting on a bench.

Yes, you're right.

If I have to pull the engine, might as well weld up the whole K-Frame. My next long vacation will be during the Holidays (company shuts down for the Holidays). I guess I could schedule it then. I've been wanting to pull the engine anyway to fix a leak. *sigh*

It's funny, people always ask me "When is your car done?" I don't think old cars are every done...especially when they are no longer like they were when they rolled out of the factory.