failing that, I may just update the connector. Again, any suggestions on a readily available connector that will handle the load?
Steering column connector
- Thread starter Backally
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failing that, I may just update the connector. Again, any suggestions on a readily available connector that will handle the load?
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
I think they are a type of bullet connector - the question is: which type?
Bullet Connectors and Terminals | Waytek Wire
Bullet Connectors and Terminals | Waytek Wire
you could google Molex connectors and find a vast array of similar connectors and the terminals for them. Which will best suit this application? I don't know.
There is something positive to be said for the weakest link/point of failure in connectors, switches, etc... Better than frying wires from here to yonder. Good luck with it
There is something positive to be said for the weakest link/point of failure in connectors, switches, etc... Better than frying wires from here to yonder. Good luck with it
Ok, go easy on me here. I can follow a schematic, solder and such but my knowledge of electrical hardware is pretty nonexistent.
For a 12ga wire it appears I need a minimum of 20a capability connector. A 0.093 molex connector is good to 14ga wire from what I see, I haven’t seen anything larger than that. The connector under the column looks like a Molex connector. Any chance I could be that lucky? So are larger pins available? If not is there something like a Delphi metri-pack 150 that can carry the load safely? And does someone sell the complete connector, all I see are housings, pins etc to build your own.
For a 12ga wire it appears I need a minimum of 20a capability connector. A 0.093 molex connector is good to 14ga wire from what I see, I haven’t seen anything larger than that. The connector under the column looks like a Molex connector. Any chance I could be that lucky? So are larger pins available? If not is there something like a Delphi metri-pack 150 that can carry the load safely? And does someone sell the complete connector, all I see are housings, pins etc to build your own.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Currents should be <5 A since your bulbs are maybe 50 W max (brake & turn filaments). The horn and starter wires trigger relays (~50 mA). You should always describe your car when asking such questions. I expect a 1970's w/ key in steering column. I recall that is a 1-row ~10 position connector from what I've seen in junkyards. My 1960's Mopars use a 2-row connector with "twin-lock" pins. Your bullet terminals look more common. Search for websites that sell automotive terminals. I don't have at hand. Try searching "56 terminal" (common type).
The connector and wires in question are ignition switch and not signal switch. That large black wire feeds the fuse box to high amp draws like wipers and A/C heater blower, plus radio, signals, etc...
For that one to overheat is somewhat common. Brown wire is ignition, hot in start. Blue is ignition hot in run plus charging system, choke heater, etc... So I have to wonder how much aftermarket equipment is involved here. MSD? Blue and brown tied together? Electric choke?
70 Duster, so key is on the column. I have not done the mad rewire but have taken the bulkhead connector apart, cleaned all terminals and replaced any bad ones. Same with most of the under hood and behind dash wiring. I have Crackbacks headlight relay setup, everything else is stock. Redfish is correct on the connector, flat white one with ignition connections.
I am putting in a Holley sniper. Fuel pump is off a relay. What I need to do is tap into the brown and dark blue wires for the Sniper ecu. Supposed to be less than 3 amps. Hooking up at the steering column is convenient as I am putting in a inertial switch under the dash in case of an accident, I can also use it as a anti theft devise to cut all power to fuel pump and EFI. Instead of just cutting and splicing wires I want to connect at the connector pins, just seems like a cleaner install to me. I ran into something like this before. Would like to just repin the existing connector if I can, but am wondering if it would just easier to update to a newer style connector if I can find one that works.
I am putting in a Holley sniper. Fuel pump is off a relay. What I need to do is tap into the brown and dark blue wires for the Sniper ecu. Supposed to be less than 3 amps. Hooking up at the steering column is convenient as I am putting in a inertial switch under the dash in case of an accident, I can also use it as a anti theft devise to cut all power to fuel pump and EFI. Instead of just cutting and splicing wires I want to connect at the connector pins, just seems like a cleaner install to me. I ran into something like this before. Would like to just repin the existing connector if I can, but am wondering if it would just easier to update to a newer style connector if I can find one that works.
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Sorry, Redfish gave great info. The key must also switch Accessory power, the draw of which depends on options (stereo, ...). In my 64 & 65 A-body, I installed a relay under-dash for ACC power so the key (in dash, not column) only carries the small coil current. Molex connectors are often used for power, as are "56 terminal". The latter are what is used in your bulkhead connector and many other places (GM also used). This popped up in google
56 SERIES UNSEALED MALE TERMINALS, 56 SERIES UNSEALED, DELPHI/PACKARD TERMINALS & CONNECTORS, CONNECTORS - Terminal Supply Company - Product Catalog
Newer cars use Weatherpack and Metripak connectors.
You can get up to at least 6 terminals in a housing. For more, you may have to use 2 connectors.
56 SERIES UNSEALED MALE TERMINALS, 56 SERIES UNSEALED, DELPHI/PACKARD TERMINALS & CONNECTORS, CONNECTORS - Terminal Supply Company - Product Catalog
Newer cars use Weatherpack and Metripak connectors.
You can get up to at least 6 terminals in a housing. For more, you may have to use 2 connectors.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Not much help here. I've never seen "in print" any replacement terminals for those connectors. I would find a different "better" connector and replace it. If you are concerned with "restore" appearance, only thing I can think is to contact one of the outfits making "original type" replacement harnesses.
Otherwise, you may be able to find some close/ similar connector terminals, and if nothing else, epoxy them into the old connector shells after termination.
Several high-current connectors in these old girls were weak points regardless of aftermarket add-ons, but adding more load sure cannot help!!
Don't forget that two of those wires carry the entire load of ALL switched accessories in the car, heater, AC, wipers, etc etc.
Otherwise, you may be able to find some close/ similar connector terminals, and if nothing else, epoxy them into the old connector shells after termination.
Several high-current connectors in these old girls were weak points regardless of aftermarket add-ons, but adding more load sure cannot help!!
Don't forget that two of those wires carry the entire load of ALL switched accessories in the car, heater, AC, wipers, etc etc.
Ok, thanks for the replies
I know the two wires carry all the current, that’s why I’m being cautious replacing it. I see a lot out there good for 9amps, 12 amps etc. that are to light. Fuel pump/EFI are the only thing I’ve added, with that and headlights on relays that should help. I knew finding pins for present connector would be hard, hoped someone had a line on ones that would work. I thought newer connectors would be easier to find, but like I said I don’t really know what’s available so asking questions so I don’t get something that will cause problems.
I know the two wires carry all the current, that’s why I’m being cautious replacing it. I see a lot out there good for 9amps, 12 amps etc. that are to light. Fuel pump/EFI are the only thing I’ve added, with that and headlights on relays that should help. I knew finding pins for present connector would be hard, hoped someone had a line on ones that would work. I thought newer connectors would be easier to find, but like I said I don’t really know what’s available so asking questions so I don’t get something that will cause problems.
Just FYI... The headlight relays have no bearing on this connector or wiring. The headlight switch is fed by a separate always hot wire. The relays reduce the load on that wire and the headlight switch.
I cant see anything wrong with the wires and terminals shown. I can only guess you plan to crimp additional/multiple wires into the new terminals. Anyway... Good luck with it.
I cant see anything wrong with the wires and terminals shown. I can only guess you plan to crimp additional/multiple wires into the new terminals. Anyway... Good luck with it.
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