Steering wander and Chinese parts?

[ACME SS]

Hi everyone! This is my first post to this site.
I have a 71 Demon which was purchased about 18 months ago. Despite having what looks to be new steering parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm) the steering has excessive wander. As I was removing the center link in preparation to adjust the backlash in the steering sector, I noticed the bolt for the idler arm was stripped!

I was afraid I would have to cut the bolt off, but to my surprise it came off WAY TOO EASY.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I'm pretty sure this bolt should be a 9/16-18 NF?

What I found was...and I can't find anybody on the inter-webs who have mentioned this, was a grade 10.9, 14mm (20mm head) with 18 tpi. YES, that's not a typo. The manufacturer of the part (I'm assuming Chinese) took a 14mm bolt and machined 18 tpi on it!

9/16= .562" 14mm = .551". There were no markings on the nut but if an SAE 9/16 nut was used, that could explain why the bolt threads were stripped and the bushing was not securely fastened. The bushing I.D. measured .572" and of course there is some built-in clearance in the K member mount holes. All this excessive clearance, plus the fact whoever installed this did not torque added up to what acted like a worn ball joint.

I suppose it is possible someone cobbled this together with a coffee can bolt but I don't think so. If you have aftermarket steering parts on your car, you may want to take a mirror and inspect the bolt head on your idler, especially if it was replaced and you are experiencing a wander issue. Here are a couple pictures to support my story. Hope this helps someone else.

All that said, if the bolt is torqued to correct value, it should be OK. In my case, the threads were stripped so it was not holding the bushing solidly and everything was moving around.
Jerry

 

[Scody21]

Sounds like you have some f**kery from the prior owner. The idler arm bolt should be shanked as shown in the pic, and yeah standard would be normal, but at the end of the day if the bolt/nut tighten it will do the same job.

Here’s a good thread and post 3 has the Skoch chart with updated alignment specs which will help with the wonder. And a link to the FSM (manual) that will have the torque specs for most everything.

1973 Dart Suspension rebuild

 

[dano]

10.9 is a metric bolt grade and is considered equivalent to Grade 8 but not identical. Source the correct bolt and replace it. You might check your idler arm ID and see if it is for 9/16". Here is the kicker, I've seen SAE graded Metic bolts, So I wouldn't be surprised to see a ISO Imperial threaded bolt.

It was difficult to find the spec of a 9/16 SAE bolt, my Machinery's Hand Book goes from 1/2 to 5/8 but what little I could find suggested the un-threaded shank can be .5545" to .5625"

If you continue to have wander after replacement, look to the steering coupler at the box. They are known to wear out and can be rebuilt but even then check it, my dad had to shim the housing on his to get it tight and still functional.

 

[Treblig]

Hi everyone! This is my first post to this site.
I have a 71 Demon which was purchased about 18 months ago. Despite having what looks to be new steering parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm) the steering has excessive wander. As I was removing the center link in preparation to adjust the backlash in the steering sector, I noticed the bolt for the idler arm was stripped!

I was afraid I would have to cut the bolt off, but to my surprise it came off WAY TOO EASY.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I'm pretty sure this bolt should be a 9/16-18 NF?

What I found was...and I can't find anybody on the inter-webs who have mentioned this, was a grade 10.9, 14mm (20mm head) with 18 tpi. YES, that's not a typo. The manufacturer of the part (I'm assuming Chinese) took a 14mm bolt and machined 18 tpi on it!

9/16= .562" 14mm = .551". There were no markings on the nut but if an SAE 9/16 nut was used, that could explain why the bolt threads were stripped and the bushing was not securely fastened. The bushing I.D. measured .572" and of course there is some built-in clearance in the K member mount holes. All this excessive clearance, plus the fact whoever installed this did not torque it tight prior to installing the cotter pin, added up to what acted like a worn ball joint.

I suppose it is possible someone cobbled this together with a coffee can bolt but I don't think so. If you have aftermarket steering parts on your car, you may want to take a mirror and inspect the bolt head on your idler, especially if it was replaced and you are experiencing a wander issue. Here are a couple pictures to support my story. Hope this helps someone else. Jerry
View attachment 1715906736 View attachment 1715906737

GREAT PICS......makes it easy for anyone to understand!!

 

[66fyssh]

Good info to watch out for. Thanks for putting it out there.

 

[66fyssh]

...and welcome to FABO!!

I was stationed in Lewiston three years as an Air Force recruiter. Beautiful country. My zone took me down to Riggins. I soaked in that drive along the river every single time.

 

[Murray]

Replace it with bearings not rubber.

 

[barbee6043]

Years ago, we all used to think Jap parts were junk. Unless you were not yet conceived?
The world is in a serious state of fuckedupiness.

 

[67Dart273]

Actually...........guys............I'm not sure...........but...........I...........think..........I..........did...........this.........exact thing, WHY?

BECAUSE OUR STUPID LOCAL "fastenall" joint DOES NOT STOCK ANY 9/16 bolts!!!!!

I had a "like new" idler that had the wrong or no bolt, I do not remember. I used a mechanical locking nut. I believe the originals are supposed to have a castellated nut/ cotter pin

 

[ACME SS]

...and welcome to FABO!!

I was stationed in Lewiston three years as an Air Force recruiter. Beautiful country. My zone took me down to Riggins. I soaked in that drive along the river every single time.

I'm new to Idaho, moved here from Minnesota, but I elk hunted in the Riggins area in 2019 and it is beautiful!

 

[ACME SS]

Actually...........guys............I'm not sure...........but...........I...........think..........I..........did...........this.........exact thing, WHY?

BECAUSE OUR STUPID LOCAL "fastenall" joint DOES NOT STOCK ANY 9/16 bolts!!!!!

I had a "like new" idler that had the wrong or no bolt, I do not remember. I used a mechanical locking nut. I believe the originals are supposed to have a castellated nut/ cotter pin

I ordered a new Moog idler arm because I have had good luck with that brand...so far...and they include the bolt. Of course I will check the bolt before I leave the store!

 

[Jim Lusk]

I believe the originals are supposed to have a castellated nut/ cotter pin

Some did, some didn't. Most I have taken apart did not have a cotter pin/castle nut. I've got bins full of suspension fasteners from cars I've dismantled.

 

[dano]

I ordered a new Moog idler arm because I have had good luck with that brand...so far...and they include the bolt. Of course I will check the bolt before I leave the store!

That's what I put on my car a few years ago. Mine was made in Japan. Going strong today but the car hasn't been driven a ton either.

I miss Elk hunting, Oregon has screwed it up to the point its not worth it and what Elk are around end up on private ranches and you're welcome to hunt on them for a very large fee.

 

[dano]

Actually...........guys............I'm not sure...........but...........I...........think..........I..........did...........this.........exact thing, WHY?

BECAUSE OUR STUPID LOCAL "fastenall" joint DOES NOT STOCK ANY 9/16 bolts!!!!!

I had a "like new" idler that had the wrong or no bolt, I do not remember. I used a mechanical locking nut. I believe the originals are supposed to have a castellated nut/ cotter pin

9/16 is an odd duck kind of like #12, #14, and 7/16 , most skip over and just go the next size up but they do exist.

 

[YY1]

Check the toe.

My car wandered and the toe was 1/8" toe out.

Set it to 5/16 (IIRC) toe in, and wandering went away.