Hey everyone, I still have no turn signals and radio and ac blower motor do not work. I have no power at the buss that powers the first three fuses which are for turn signals and the other things that don't work. The wire that powers these is the black one coming from the alternator(shown in pic). I have power to the black one all the way to the inside bulkhead connector. Then it goes into the taped harness and its hard to say where it goes. I'm guessing it goes above the instrument cluster. I don't know where the factory splice is with the three wires coming off of it. I want to find this to check for power. Is it close to the black alt gauge wire? Anyways I think my problem here to why my radio, blower motor and turn signal don't work. Somewhere between the bulkhead and the wire coming from the splice to the fuses that powers these is losing power. What do you guys suggest? Am I thinking right here?
Still no turn signals. Look at this
- Thread starter Jeffs73
- Start date
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Seems to me you have answered your own question. If you have power through the bulk head connector then it has to be a break in the wire between there and the wire you point out doesn't have power. I think you need to tear into the lead going from the bulk head connector to the dead wire.
I just want to make sure I am not way off. I'm only 15 and am always worried about messing with things on the car. Especially wiring.
I was looking at my wiring harness for my Dart and thou it is for a 69 I thought I'd see if I could narrow it down for you. On my diagram it shows power going to the radio,blower,heater switch,flasher from a black wire off the ignition switch.
Any body else have other thoughts? I still don't know where the black wire goes as I have rapped wires routed above the instrument cluster and under. I really don't want to rip all the tape of these if I don't have to
Do you have a picture? It looks like in my picture that the main black one spreads out to the ignition and to power the fuses
I don't have a picture and the diagram I bought is two sided and it's hard to follow the wires even with it in your hand. I can tell you this I bought mine off E-bay and it is a nice laminated hard plastic. It might be a good idea to buy one for your 73.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You seem to have described the problem backwards. In the photo of the fuse functions fuses 4 through 7, you say "all work fine."
THE ABOVE IS FED off the splice in the MAD diagram
The power that you are LOSING is fed off the igntion switch. You need to dig under the column and access the switch connector and see what you have there.
PLEASE do not start any more threads on this problem. Keep it all in this thread so the rest of us can follow along.
THE ABOVE IS FED off the splice in the MAD diagram
The power that you are LOSING is fed off the igntion switch. You need to dig under the column and access the switch connector and see what you have there.
PLEASE do not start any more threads on this problem. Keep it all in this thread so the rest of us can follow along.
Here is the link to the company that sells them. $19.95 with shipping.
http://www.classiccarwiring.com/
http://www.classiccarwiring.com/
Sorry about that. The problem with that is I don't know which wire in the connector from the ignition is the power one. Which one is it and it goes to the splice or the fuses? How do I get to the connector?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There are only two harnesses and two connectors coming down out of the column. You may need to pull the trip panel off below the column. One is for the turn signals and one is for the ignition switch.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
You "could" just run a wire outside the harness to the 2 points and not have to cut into the harness but you will have to figure out which 2 points they are to bypass the broken wire.
Put your arm out the window. Its legal
The wire you are looking for is made hot by the ignition switch in on position so that's where power to signal fuse comes from. The splice in the pic you have shown is hot at all times so black wire to fuse box shown would be for horn, brake, dome lamp, other.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Most people don't know what'n 'ell you're trying to convey when you do this............
THIS is NOT a right hand turn signal........................
My pinkie hurts just looking at this..............
bigus1949
Well-Known Member
have you checked each unit seperately? bypass the switch to the blower motor and run it off just the batt and so on and so forth. also follow the power off the batt to each unit with a test light. i am guessing ya have a ground problem.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yes. The big fat blackwire going to that fuse panel buss comes directly from the ignition switch
I'm not a big fan of these diagrams, but they do have their purpose
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
In the top drawing, I have traced the wire feeding the fuse panel buss off the page. Second photo shows how this large black continues on to the ignition switch. Those connections on the switch diagram should be in order, so you should be able to look at the switch and color of wires
The bottom diagram shows that the pink (I've traced in black) branches off in a splice and feeds to the wiper switch. I don't know for sure how this splice is made or where it's at, but it could be a bad splice
As I said before, the very first thing to check is the ignition switch connector.
I have the black wire that power three of the fuses(which is dead) and the red wire that powers two of the fuses is always hot. Where does that red one come from? And in your opinion do you think I have a good chance of the blower motor,radio, and turn signals working if I restore the power to the fuses?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The red which is hot comes from the ammeter circuit. You have to think of it as "two separate" fuse panels (Actually 3, the little instrument lamp fuse on the end is separate, is fed from the headlight switch)
I don't know if the turns will work or not, but it's a certainty that they will NOT work until you DO get power to the fuse panel.
You have to realize where the "likelyhood" of trouble IS
Trouble is ALWAYS most likely
at connector terminals
inside switch contacts
at other terminals such as the ammeter
and rare, but sometimes at factory splices
Sometimes from damaged/ cut wires, such as from falling against hot manifolds, getting tangled up in moving parts, or incorrectly protected or routed wiring getting smashed by seats, trim, etc.
In this case, what is involved?
The fuse clips, but evidently the fuse is not GETTING power
The connector going to the ignition switch --very high likelyhood
The ignition switch itself
The feed coming TO the switch, which is again at the switch connector
The feed coming to the switch connector, which gets back into the ammeter circuit.
I don't know if the turns will work or not, but it's a certainty that they will NOT work until you DO get power to the fuse panel.
You have to realize where the "likelyhood" of trouble IS
Trouble is ALWAYS most likely
at connector terminals
inside switch contacts
at other terminals such as the ammeter
and rare, but sometimes at factory splices
Sometimes from damaged/ cut wires, such as from falling against hot manifolds, getting tangled up in moving parts, or incorrectly protected or routed wiring getting smashed by seats, trim, etc.
In this case, what is involved?
The fuse clips, but evidently the fuse is not GETTING power
The connector going to the ignition switch --very high likelyhood
The ignition switch itself
The feed coming TO the switch, which is again at the switch connector
The feed coming to the switch connector, which gets back into the ammeter circuit.
I will check out the ignition switch connector. That could be a great possiblity. My car wasnt turning over with the key so I had to wire in a push button. So maybe ignition switch too.
Wiring gremlins are a PIA to most people. I know life gets a whole lot easier when I'm holding a wiring diagram in my hands.
I believe I have narrowed the search down. In the Mad diagram and what 67Dart273 has said, the splice has wires going to the ignition, wiper and fuses. I knew the fuse wire was dead but now have discovered that the ignition wire and wiper wire are also dead. This must mean that power is being lost at the splice or before that. I have power at inside bulkhead.
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