stock bottom end 5.9 mag HP potential

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aaron68s

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I acquired a good running 5.9 I would like to know what kind of HP guys are getting out of these, street/strip use 4sp 4.10 duster. I would like to upgrade the heads cam, it will be carbed, headers, street manners not a big concern. Is 500 possible using the stock lowerend?
 
Engine Masters did a stock short block with RPM heads, 750, M1 single plane and 230/[email protected]
0.576/0.571 made 448 hp @ 5800, porting would get you more power but 500 hp would be hard without more CR. But who knows how long the rod bolts and cast pistons will last at those power levels.
 
Tare it down to the short block. Replace the rod bearings. I would recommend replacing the lower main bearings shells with the upper grooved halves, this will give you full time oiling to the rods. Take a look at the damper. Is the outer ring sitting cocked, the rubber bulging or cracked ? If so get a new one. This should have your short block in fighting shape. I'd call Hughes on a cam, make sure they know the motor is using the EO pistons as P to V clearance will be an issue. You should be able to retain the OE hyd roller setup. I'd think a cam in the 228-232 @ .050 on a 108 LSA advanced about 3 or 4 degrees would be the ticket. As far as heads, I think a set of worked over EQ or Hughes Iron Rams with the LA intake bolt pattern would do nicely without putting a major dent in the wallet. Top it off with a RPM Air Gap intake and a 750 double pumper carb. Headers comes down to budget. TTI would be my top choice due to quality, fit, and power. They are spendy though. A set of Hooker or Hedman entry level units come in at less than half the price of the TTI, but are not as good. Other things you'll need are a pass car oil pan and pickup, Magnum flexplate to correct for the external balance, and distributor. What will this motor make as far as HP ? Depends a lot on how good the heads are done and the condition of the rings. I'd think 430-450 ballpark. Trying to get 500 HP out of what is essentially a junk yard build using OE pistons and stock rod bolts can be sketchy. Keep the RPM around 6000 or less and it'll have a good life span.
 
...But who knows how long the rod bolts and cast pistons will last at those power levels.
I think you might be selling them both short. While I agree a good set of aftermarket bolts would be in order, I also agree with skrews...as long as the revs are kept to a reasonable level, you should be fine. Now, on the pistons, the cast pistons used in pretty much all domestic engines since the mid 90s are hyper alloy, which is stronger than standard cast slugs. Also, keep in mind there are several factory engines making similar power levels with stock cast hyper pistons...some with significantly higher compression ratios. In short I wouldn't worry as much about the pistons as long as you're not detonating.
 
He said 4 sp so he needs a flywheel. Here's a post on another forum where I worked out the proper balance weight.

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71263&page=5

Similar info posted here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=178065&highlight=magnum+flywheel

It's different from an LA 360 but not by much. There is wrong info out there on the weight. There are no factory 130 tooth flywheels so you're stuck buying an expensive aftermarket one (about $350 IIRC) or you could balance a neutral one, or you could take a chance and use one from an LA 360. I may get flamed for that statement, and I'm not recommending it but take a look at the numbers. A few guys have used weight that is clearly a lot farther off, one racing oval track and the engines lived.
 
I was looking at a few different Hughes cams and a set of procomp aluminum heads, and Airgap intake and probably an 850 dp carb
 
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