I'm putting together pieces to build a 408. I have a nice set of early 340 rods and was wondering whether to refurbish them including ARP rod bolts or purchase scat I beams? Please offer your opions/ suggestions.
Stock Refurbished Rods VS Scat I Beam
- Thread starter jefflock
- Start date
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SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
stocks are good to i think 500hp but others are lighter
do the math...how much to resize big ends...are the bushing on the small ends ok....how much for the arp bolts.???
the scat are light weight...around 595 grams vs 740 for stock...
with scats I beams no notching of cylinders needed....stock rods the will need clearance for rod bolts....
scats brand new 4340 steel....stock rods forged xxxx steel...with how many miles and heat cycles...??
easier to balance engine with lighter rods too...
if i was spending good money on a 408.....i would spend an extra hundered bucks on the news rods....just my opinion...
the scat are light weight...around 595 grams vs 740 for stock...
with scats I beams no notching of cylinders needed....stock rods the will need clearance for rod bolts....
scats brand new 4340 steel....stock rods forged xxxx steel...with how many miles and heat cycles...??
easier to balance engine with lighter rods too...
if i was spending good money on a 408.....i would spend an extra hundered bucks on the news rods....just my opinion...
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
I threw a rod once going wide open...loads of fun hearing a BANG and white smoke pouring out from behind as your ride starts slowing down while your foot is still down on the floor. Made it 1 good mile til the exit ramp or about 45 seconds and the motor just quit. Tow truck came with a flat bed, I'm like no no, I don't want it PULLED up, its not a full frame car. Motor was leaking water and oil truck guy said no way the motor will run again.Got in and crank and crank, it did fire up and I did a neutral slam at about 3500 rpms and went straight up the ramp--it was steep too. Smoke was everywhere again motor stall about 4 or 5 seconds but I got it on the truck.
Thank goodness no blue meanies were around.
Get the best rods and pistons you can afford..the lighter the piston the better.
Thank goodness no blue meanies were around.
Get the best rods and pistons you can afford..the lighter the piston the better.
ramcharger
Dismember
Rods are really critical in a stroker application due to the increase in piston speed at a given rpm. Don't skimp here.
Where is your targeted hp peak in rpm's and what is your intended usage?
Where is your targeted hp peak in rpm's and what is your intended usage?
moper
Well-Known Member
What is the rest of the intended build?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Im no expert but what I have seen on this forum is that, given the cost of rods these days, it is less expensive to just get new rods….
New and better rods for less money is all win in my book.
New and better rods for less money is all win in my book.
I purchased a 69 Dart race car from a friend of someone on this board. This what the motor is intended for.
4' Mopar cast crank
Ross 99789 pistons 13 to 1 approx.
Eddy RPM heads (stock out of the box with the valves redone/checked)
Eddy Air Gap (unless someone gives me a better idea)
Comp Cam 252/262 542/555 solid lifter
Comp Adjustable Rocker Arms
Scat I beam Rods
Kevco Pan and Pickup
I'm open to all suggestions
Not to hijack, and please don't take this the wrong way, but I'm wondering; Do you think maybe you did more damage with the neutral slam, and running the engine again, than you would have by simply winching the car onto the truck? Cars are winched onto trucks zillions of times every day. Maybe I'm missing something.
Sorry you lost a motor. I hope the new one was a lot better!
IMO, I'd be looking at a single plane intake. Is hood clearance an issue?
Is cutting the hood/replaceing it with a Fiberglass hood out of the question?
13-1 is the actual ratio or advertised? I ask because even with a big cam, this could be tuff to run on pump gas.
The car has a super stock glass hood so clearance is not a issue. (already cut out)
12.8 to 1 useing the compression calculator.
Either VP red or Sunoco purple race fuel.
Edelbroc or other single plane?
Is there a need to turn it above 6000?
ramcharger
Dismember
Jeff,
For that build I would really look into getting some H beams as that cam will peak in the 6100, 6200 range. Rebuilt stock rods are out of question. I would also have that head at least mildly ported. Single plane Victor would be my choice. You might want to go with a forged crank too.
For that build I would really look into getting some H beams as that cam will peak in the 6100, 6200 range. Rebuilt stock rods are out of question. I would also have that head at least mildly ported. Single plane Victor would be my choice. You might want to go with a forged crank too.
moper
Well-Known Member
I would not run anything less than Eagle H beams in it. Neither stock nor SIR type rods will take the power that can make for long. What I would change: Port the heads. At least a stage 2 job so you're getting around 260-265cfm. Go a lot larger on the cam. Closer to 270 @ .050" with .600 lift. The intake would be better as a single plane like the M1 with a 1" open spacer, or preferrably the Victor 340. Run a carb of at least 950cfm dry flowed.
I agree with the 2 replies above.
Stock OE rods are fine for many uses, but at the price to referbish them, it becomes impractical. SP!? If you yourself can do the work, that's different, or if rules must be followed. (AKA - Class racing)
With that cam, I'm, not sure where you'll peak in power. But it'll be a good bit higher with a single plane intake. Unless your caged by class rules?
Stock OE rods are fine for many uses, but at the price to referbish them, it becomes impractical. SP!? If you yourself can do the work, that's different, or if rules must be followed. (AKA - Class racing)
With that cam, I'm, not sure where you'll peak in power. But it'll be a good bit higher with a single plane intake. Unless your caged by class rules?
I will be using the car for bracket racing.
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