Stock Rod Limitations?

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Then get some never re sized core 360 rods and have them prep'd, cause not only will they handle that power level... they are also way cheaper...and when u hang lighter than stock pistons on them, well...they just seemingly got stronger.

You have responses here telling you people have rev'd 8500 rpm with stock rods and a lot heavier pistons, and these guys are the real deal. so listen. JMO
 
Thanks, will do. I've already got a good set of rods. I'll start saving to have them prepped
 
Just an idea....and I'm not trying to burst your bubble. If that's the case with your parents and budget and all (sorry about all that, btw) then my advice would be to scale down your project. Maybe a nice 12 or even low 13 second car that you could upgrade later when the funds are better. It would be a project that you might could actually finish, instead of possibly getting in over your head when finances are questionable and ultimately having to get out of it and losing your ***. Again, it's just a thought from an old fart been doin this better than 30 years. 600 HP ain't cheap. Think 12-15K.


falston1 said:
Looking for a street legal drag car (10 second 1/4) as an end result. Also a college student whose parents are splitting so moneys pretty tight right now. I'm trying to work with what I have at hand right now. I basically am looking for advice on how to save money and still have a rotating assembly that'll put up with 600 hp and 7000 rpm. This is my daily driver at the moment, but I just got a better milage car so I'm getting more serious with the Duster.
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I'm in a similar situation,no money! So my bottom end for my 451 consist's of;1966 forged 440 crank and Ly rods and kieth black hyper pistons. Lighten the rods some,deburr and remove parting line,arp rod bolt's,a simple regrind on the crank and billet main bearing caps with arp studs. The reason you need to stud and use billet caps is because around the 600 h.p level cap walk can get annoying with a bb mopar. The studs and cap combo will help a stock crank live to 700 h.p. It's how it was done in the 60's and 70's when there just wasnt anything better.

The secret here is to lighten the crank,by grinding the throws down and simultaneously knife edging the throw to help reduce windage.Windage can also be controlled cheaply with an extra inch of pan depth and a crank scraper or windage tray.

That phat 440 crank can stand a diet. 5 lbs is an easy target.
 
I pulled the pin out or just broke a 340 piston and the rod windowed the block in the #3 cylinder, rod didnt break. I also lost a rod cap in a 318, dont know of the nut came loose or the bolt broke, probably the nut but that was just driving? Both could be blamed on old stock rod bolts, buy new ones and have the rods resized with the new ones in and torqued. on the other hand, I broke a rod in half in a Ford 351C and at the same time, broke an input shell in the C5 it was in front of! That wasnt a good day...only upside was it happened 'bout a block from home, EZ push home on level road.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Just an idea....and I'm not trying to burst your bubble. If that's the case with your parents and budget and all (sorry about all that, btw) then my advice would be to scale down your project. Maybe a nice 12 or even low 13 second car that you could upgrade later when the funds are better. It would be a project that you might could actually finish, instead of possibly getting in over your head when finances are questionable and ultimately having to get out of it and losing your ***. Again, it's just a thought from an old fart been doin this better than 30 years. 600 HP ain't cheap. Think 12-15K.
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X2...very good advice.
 
Just an idea....and I'm not trying to burst your bubble. If that's the case with your parents and budget and all (sorry about all that, btw) then my advice would be to scale down your project. Maybe a nice 12 or even low 13 second car that you could upgrade later when the funds are better. It would be a project that you might could actually finish, instead of possibly getting in over your head when finances are questionable and ultimately having to get out of it and losing your ***. Again, it's just a thought from an old fart been doin this better than 30 years. 600 HP ain't cheap. Think 12-15K.
Click to expand...

I'm not commiting to anything at the moment. I'd just like to have a stout, cheap bottom end that can handle the rpm and power, and upgrade the cam and top end later. I'm not looking for a 10 second car right now, just a solid platform to build on in the future.
 
See,that's why I typed the above for a cheap 451! That recipe will get you 10 second runs in a light car alright! Plus no way are you gonna spend 12 grand building it. The machining is the expensive part,as most guys cant do that. Everything else is cake though. Assembling a motor is like a puzzle only easier!

Now to talk about car weight. It's something key to low et's but not really discussed. You can really lighten up an A body by several hundred pounds very cheaply,This makes your low et goal much easier to achieve,as now you dont need as much h.p or mods to the engine,drivetrain or car.

I lucked out and found a used fibreglass nose for $500,plus removing inner fenders.Glass is relatively cheap ,even compared to getting a nice used fender! I would lighten up you ride as much as possible.
 
I've thought about putting a 400, 451, or even a 505 in the Duster. I have a 400/727 that I was going to put in my 73 Charger, but I'm trading the Charger for a paint job and keeping the bbm and drivetrain. I've just got more sbm parts so I'm trying to peice together a solid bottom end for that. I also have ported commando heads with single plane M1 intake with adjustable roller rockers for the top end right now. And I'm working on the chassis this summer. This engine will probably be built next summer. Just aquiring missing peices and saving up for some machining for the next year and needed advice on this before I spent so much on forged rods.
 
YES!! Stock rods are fine,dont let anyone sell you on expensive rods,because what the factory made is awesome! Weight wise you will need to put them on a diet,but you can safely remove 1-2% of thier weight just by debeaming/deburring.

I like those heads!
 
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