Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Your brother has that "What the hell ya doing takin' pictures" look on his face. LOL
Went with a B&M Flex plate after breaking a few normal eared style plates. Didn't break even when I had some flex plate to converter bolts back out a couple years ago.
How, why, I don't know but it must be something about how I don't get the torque right..

Do you use a torque wrench???
 
Again, this is f.
View attachment 1715277455 And its off,my thermometer is -37 celcius.Do i Win?

There’s an app for that...View attachment 1715277457
uh yea, it looks like this: Celsius x 1.8 F*/C* + 32 *F
-37 x 1.8 + 32 = - 34 *F.
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Do you use a torque wrench???
When there is room - always!
Trick always seem to be to keep the crank from turning

The first times I put the transmission in I was working with the car on jack stands, so who knows it was long time ago now. But this last time was only a few years ago, we pushed the car across the yard where I rent and put it on a lift. Plenty of room, as far as I know I did it right. No problems for a couple years. Replaced them all with new ones and had my mechanic check my work. He happened to have a set of new ARP bolts on hand since he does a lot of work on FWD and RWD mopars. This is the same guy who built the headers - sometimes he'll let me use one of the lifts if things aren't too busy. This cropped up at the same time as the headers were to be done, so when the headers got done we went fot the source of the rattle in gear. Yould think I'd have recognized it right away - but it was a little different from the times I broke the flexplate - and besides, my mind wasn't allowing for that possibility...
 
Well getting ready to suit up and go clear some snow.
With the wind chill -1 it will be minimal effort today.
Got two daughters and best buddy out of town.
Going to go put some tire tracks in their driveway and clear their walks. Give it the lived in look.
Got a neighbor with health problems clear her driveway and then mine.
That's enough for today!!
 
Good morning everyone. Off to a gunshow/swap meet with Dad now that all the chatty back reading is done. Stay safe with all the weather coming in...
 
Good morning folks
Weekend plan: oil and filter on wife’s truck. Then got some ideas on the Duster. So as it is right now I have a cheapie refurbished battery, Tuff Stuff 100a alternator, cooling fans set to come on @ 210* and off @195* with a 195* thermostat. The car runs between 195-210 which I am perfectly satisfied with. What I’m not comfortable with is at idle in traffic with the fans on voltage drops to 12.1 ish. (typical Chrysler). It comes up to 14+ just off idle. So my thinking is first to replace the battery. I grabbed an Optima red top will install it this weekend. I also picked up a 180* thermostat. The thought being that with the 195* once the fans come on they never really shut off and once the car is moving I would think it should be able to drop below the 195 fan setting. And at least with the better battery it will better handle the fan load at idle. I also down the road I will update the fuel injection software, my understanding is the update has an option to raise idle to user specific rpm when fans are engaged. With the stall converter I may be able to set the idle high enough to bring charging voltage up without issue Am I over thinking this? Does any of this make sense?
 
Thermometer here is minus 17F. I would have to do the conversion to see who wins. We are burrowed under quilts with dogs and cats.
Good morning. The sun is out. No Frost. Life is good.
You finally recognize you live in the wrong place when you look at thermometer and it reads in the single digits and you think to yourself, cool it is warming right up. Minus 9 F here!
 
Going to be a spring day here today. Spring=Wind in this neighborhood. What's the wind chill factor at 70* with 25mph winds? :lol: Must get the Honda out and take a run.
 
Good morning folks
Weekend plan: oil and filter on wife’s truck. Then got some ideas on the Duster. So as it is right now I have a cheapie refurbished battery, Tuff Stuff 100a alternator, cooling fans set to come on @ 210* and off @195* with a 195* thermostat. The car runs between 195-210 which I am perfectly satisfied with. What I’m not comfortable with is at idle in traffic with the fans on voltage drops to 12.1 ish. (typical Chrysler). It comes up to 14+ just off idle. So my thinking is first to replace the battery. I grabbed an Optima red top will install it this weekend. I also picked up a 180* thermostat. The thought being that with the 195* once the fans come on they never really shut off and once the car is moving I would think it should be able to drop below the 195 fan setting. And at least with the better battery it will better handle the fan load at idle. I also down the road I will update the fuel injection software, my understanding is the update has an option to raise idle to user specific rpm when fans are engaged. With the stall converter I may be able to set the idle high enough to bring charging voltage up without issue Am I over thinking this? Does any of this make sense?

I'm a little confused here but that's typical! I would change one thing at a time, Optima first and not the 180 thermostat and see it that helps your low voltage situation, after that not sure what your goal is.
 
Good morning folks
Weekend plan: oil and filter on wife’s truck. Then got some ideas on the Duster. So as it is right now I have a cheapie refurbished battery, Tuff Stuff 100a alternator, cooling fans set to come on @ 210* and off @195* with a 195* thermostat. The car runs between 195-210 which I am perfectly satisfied with. What I’m not comfortable with is at idle in traffic with the fans on voltage drops to 12.1 ish. (typical Chrysler). It comes up to 14+ just off idle. So my thinking is first to replace the battery. I grabbed an Optima red top will install it this weekend. I also picked up a 180* thermostat. The thought being that with the 195* once the fans come on they never really shut off and once the car is moving I would think it should be able to drop below the 195 fan setting. And at least with the better battery it will better handle the fan load at idle. I also down the road I will update the fuel injection software, my understanding is the update has an option to raise idle to user specific rpm when fans are engaged. With the stall converter I may be able to set the idle high enough to bring charging voltage up without issue Am I over thinking this? Does any of this make sense?
Yes. Some A/C equiped cars raised the idle slightly when the A/C was on. It was done using an idle stop solenoid with a second position.

Try to get an alternator with better low rpm output or use a smaller pulley.
Getting an actual output test of an alternator, done at 14 Volts, is like asking for some great magical mystery. :rolleyes:
once in a blue moon you used to find this in a box with a remanufactured.
upload_2019-1-19_12-48-18.png


Notice that it was done at 13.1 Volts. So it can't even be compared to the shop manual test, which is done at 15 Volts.
However 13.1 is just about high enough that the battery won't have to supply any juice. So at least its useful, unlike a test done at 12 or 12.5 Volts.
RPM is alternator, not engine.

In case your wondering, a test that was done regulating load at higher voltage would show lower max amperages
 
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