Stop in for a cup of coffee

-
LMFAO

70731624_1363341383835006_5323206823421935616_n.jpg
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Less money into rebuild parts is going to mean more money towards a good cam and lifters.


Still a very mild and very stock build to get an old dart swinging on the streets again.
Click to expand...

Always like to use Ma Mopars cam grind numbers and seeing the engines she put them in.

Simple good running 340 cam
444 lift /276 duration

Nice running and overall good performance.

Melling makes a cam with real close to the same grind numbers SPD-22

If you are a real good shopper you can find them for around 100.00, good to get their matching Melling lifters too.

1013162144a.jpg
 
:mad: So... I sent the module for the Journey to a repair place in SC. Only AFTER calling them and describing the problem. They had told me the 'normal' repair might not fix it. Yep I knew that. But they also told me they would test it and (at additional cost) fix the other problem if needed. OK. Now this morning they call me. "The problem you describe is not something we fix" :wtf: So they are sending it back. They will refund what I paid for repair, but I am pretty sure I lose the $62 for shipping :BangHead:

Not a good morning.
 
Fun to see a chart to compare. That 68 340 manual cam was a fun one for a stocker.
 
And now for something completely different! We had annual NRA year end banquet last night. Yours truly won a Sig 320/with Romeo sight and a NRA mini bike. Hah! I wanted to chop and stretch mini bike and make a set of apes for it, wife kaboshed whole idea. Looks like it will remain unaltered for grand kids use in barn. (For now.... hehehe)

61E9DD1C-6D6F-4AD1-8515-DF86393D5AED.jpeg
 
zkx14 said:
:mad: So... I sent the module for the Journey to a repair place in SC. Only AFTER calling them and describing the problem. They had told me the 'normal' repair might not fix it. Yep I knew that. But they also told me they would test it and (at additional cost) fix the other problem if needed. OK. Now this morning they call me. "The problem you describe is not something we fix" :wtf: So they are sending it back. They will refund what I paid for repair, but I am pretty sure I lose the $62 for shipping :BangHead:

Not a good morning.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about you sending that in, really hard to find anyone to reman your unit. The ECU rebuilders out of Florida are a bunch of con artists.

Had good luck with Cardone reman ECUs out of the carquest stores, with guarantee.

Can of worms, used ones got to reprogram to your car, so back to square one again unless it happens to be a plug and play.

Just another reason to go old school, lol . .
 
George Jets said:
I was wondering about you sending that in, really hard to find anyone to reman your uint. The ECU rebuilders out of Florida are a bunch of con artists.

Had good luck with Cardone reman ECUs out of the carquest stores, with guarantee.

Can of worms, used ones got to reprogram to your car, so back to square one again unless it happens to be a plug and play.

Just another reason to go old school, lol . .
Click to expand...
I'm seeing mixed answers on 'programming' requirements. Some say it's a dealer thing to reset. Some say gotta buy a new one and then it is plug and play as it will self program. Some are saying you put the leads to the battery together ( anything from 'just touch them' to 'tie them together overnight' and that is supposed to do a hard reset. I put them together while its out. They are saying my problem is likely a processor problem. So, actually a chance that just having it out and reset could fix it.
 
zkx14 said:
Saw the morning news that they were ready for them. Didn't see any idiot updates
Click to expand...
yeah, just saw on the news, a HUGE group next to one of the barricaded entrances gathering and chanting. Then a pair of M1A2s rolled up with about 4 helios...
 
zkx14 said:
I'm seeing mixed answers on 'programming' requirements. Some say it's a dealer thing to reset. Some say gotta buy a new one and then it is plug and play as it will self program. Some are saying you put the leads to the battery together ( anything from 'just touch them' to 'tie them together overnight' and that is supposed to do a hard reset. I put them together while its out. They are saying my problem is likely a processor problem. So, actually a chance that just having it out and reset could fix it.
Click to expand...

Touching the battery cables together with the battery out diffuses the capacitors inside the computer and resets it to a basic level, then you take it out and drive it and it relearns your driving habbits and adjusts accordingly.

Want good grounds from engine to chassis, can even add an additional one. Stray voltage will make your car computer do crazy things, make sure all wiring is well insulated and not chaffing up against some sharp edge, even the high energy spark plug wires feeding back into the system. We are talking mili-volts here, electricity follows the path of least resistance to get back to the battery.

All connections clean and good, not green with corrosion, battery cables clean too. Test your battery want at least 12.5 volts, it is the heart of your whole electrical computer system.


I have found that inside the ECUs the capacitors start to leak over time, drain down on to the boards and now the electricity follows a new path goofing everything up. Rebuilders replace the capacitors, clean the boards, and reseal the boards with a clear sealer when all done.

The hard part is finding the good people to do this work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top