Stop in for a cup of coffee

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So I am second guessing my position on removing tail stripe and putting another one on. Appears they are difficult to get right. Enlarge attached pix and you can see the disparity between sides. I fear I am just being anal, but it is bugging the crap out of me. Just not sure I can do any better?

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John, I have to install all the decals on mine and am very intimidated about it. It took a bunch of zooming in and comparing but I see your concern. A bit lower on the right side. I would be happy with that result myself. I hope I get them that close. Run it
 
So I am second guessing my position on removing tail stripe and putting another one on. Appears they are difficult to get right. Enlarge attached pix and you can see the disparity between sides. I fear I am just being anal, but it is bugging the crap out of me. Just not sure I can do any better?

View attachment 1715457219

Yes those stripes are difficult to get right...

The best way to install them is to use a soap and water solution before applying the stripe... Put two or three drops of liquid dish soap into the spray bottle and fill the rest with water... Make sure surface is clean, wet wipe and then dry wipe the surface... Then spray the surface with soap/water solution and then apply the stripe... For a stripe that large, once you get it in the proper location, start in the middle with a flat scraper (a bondo spreader works great for this), using the thin edge of the scraper to squeegee the soap water solution out from thee center out... If there are any small "bubbles" in the sticker/stripe, use a pin to poke a hole in the stripe where the bubble is and then squeegee the water out with the bondo spreader...

Plus you want the surface of the car to be warm... 50°- 90° for the adhesive to stick well... I would target the surface temp to be 70° - 90° and the part to be similar 70° - 90° temp... You don't want the sticker to be cold when you apply it or the adhesive/glue won't stick as well...
 
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Tell you what not easy getting that right. On the dart I put on side molding like black rubber door guard stuff. Measured three times, re checked and still looks like crap. Get a body guy to help you out if you can.
 
It would bug me too. Would rather have nothing.
Too noticeable.
But, if you can buy a replacement, tape it on before installing,a few pencil marks before installing will help. There is a fluid/soapy water that permits you to move it and squeeze water out once you get it on position. Bet you can get some good advice from pheonix.

We just used dish soap at the factory... Two or three drops of Joy liquid soap and then fill the rest of the spray bottle with water... That helps keep the stripe from "grippiing" until you get it in the right position...
 
Automotive Paint -History Timeline and Types of Automotive Paint | Eastwood Blog

"These shortcomings and a move toward greater environmental friendliness led to the eventual changeover by most car and truck manufacturers to new base-clear, water-borne systems in the late 1970’s to early 1990s however this period was not without serious issues as many of us will recall the peeling clear coats of many vehicles from that era resulting in scores of cars and truck being repainted through factory warranty claims. "


especially GM silver cars!!!!!!!


and chrysler blue vehicles


I bought my ex a new 95 Neon in Lapis Blue... That color was notorious for peeling... :BangHead:

When I contacted Chrysler about the paint, they would only paint it once, and only the panels that were peeling at the time... I pointed out that the whole car was painted with the same process and the other panels will start to peel eventually, but they insisted that they will only repaint the panels that were peeling at the time and you only get one "repaint" per customer/car.... :icon_fU:
 
Tell you what not easy getting that right. On the dart I put on side molding like black rubber door guard stuff. Measured three times, re checked and still looks like crap. Get a body guy to help you out if you can.


I tell you what.... :D
 
OK serious question new pistons, rings and main and rod bearings, re built oil pump (guts) run break in additive in the oil at first? Or is that just for cam changes? I am so confused!
 
OK serious question new pistons, rings and main and rod bearings, re built oil pump (guts) run break in additive in the oil at first? Or is that just for cam changes? I am so confused!


I believe the break in oil is for the break in of new cam and lifters... But not completely sure....

It won't hurt to use it for the first start and break in the cam and lifters JIC....


When it comes to oil/lube, it's best to error on too much vs not enough.... (Just ask her... :D)
 
It would make is easier to screen at the airport...

Drop your pants and look what color your balls are...
I will admit, I was a little nervous when I heard about the virus, since I just came through the Beijing China Airport, only a few weeks ago....:eek::eek:
 
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