Stop in for a cup of coffee

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ZMan67S said:
Looks like a hour or two of detailed taping required.
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At least!
I haven't decided if it will be better to paint the black first, rather than try to mask the white.
Or paint all the white. Then apply the flat black with a paint brush or sponge.

The paint that they told me to use is SEM's color coat. I'll prob have to experiment. It will be a steep learning curve for me!!
 
Dam just blanked out and use it all the time, lanolin based, so it cleans up easily. TJ??? I know you use it also.
 
halifaxhops said:
Have to ask why? Do you see it when installed?
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Redfish and I agree it effects the instrument lighting. The blackout sections are modled into the plastic. They - Chrysler - spent a lot of extra time painting the metal and the plastic - and they didn't do that for ***** and giggles.
Unfortunately vacu-ornametal wasn't able to keep a mask on it. I think they didn't realize it until ready to ship. It would have been alot easier to have had them detail it while still apart.
 
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That soft green illumination is one of the things I like about the car. Don't want to put it all together and be driving at night and get pissed off.
 
Mattax said:
At least!
I haven't decided if it will be better to paint the black first, rather than try to mask the white.
Or paint all the white. Then apply the flat black with a paint brush or sponge.

The paint that they told me to use is SEM's color coat. I'll prob have to experiment. It will be a steep learning curve for me!!
Click to expand...
Remember being plastic you need to hit it with a coat or two of promoter, but I'm sure you know that.
Not sure what parts stores you have there. Here we here O'Reily's Auto Parts. One store locally makes quick dry paint and puts it in a spray can. I gave the guy the Chrysler paint number and he had the book to mix it up. I then got a package of small wide mouth Solo cups and a package of model style paint brushs from the hobby store. Spray a little into the cup and paint. Worked well for me.
 
ZMan67S said:
Remember being plastic you need to hit it with a coat or two of promoter, but I'm sure you know that.
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That's what I would have thought.
But the guys at vacu- said spray this stuff direct on the chrome. That's what they use. I guess because it realy is a thin layer of metal.
 
Morning all.
Still waiting to see if I get any more of the hops I planted to sprout. The first one only took a week. My wife has been sending me photos. I set up natural fiber twine between 2 trees before I left. Will be real interesting to see if they survive the summer heat.
 
ZMan67S said:
Remember being plastic you need to hit it with a coat or two of promoter, but I'm sure you know that.
Not sure what parts stores you have there. Here we here O'Reily's Auto Parts. One store locally makes quick dry paint and puts it in a spray can. I gave the guy the Chrysler paint number and he had the book to mix it up. I then got a package of small wide mouth Solo cups and a package of model style paint brushs from the hobby store. Spray a little into the cup and paint. Worked well for me.
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There is one autopaint store near here that mixed up the paint that looks whitish in the engine bay. So much for his books.
I may use them for the SEM Color Coat.
Glad to know spraying into a cup will work. That's one of the things someone suggested. Only need a few ounces, not a quart.
 
Mattax said:
Then this.
View attachment 1715535350

So it looks like this.
View attachment 1715535351

Taking my time on this one.
Never done anything like this. Was never into model or miniatures painting.
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looking good though

i was with model cars and planes but i didn't have steady enough hands for fine detail work. some folks can even hand paint things that are normally stickers in the kit, like engine call-outs etc.
 
Mattax said:
That's what I would have thought.
But the guys at vacu- said spray this stuff direct on the chrome. That's what they use. I guess because it realy is a thin layer of metal.
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Which stuff??
 
dukeboy_318 said:
looking good though

i was with model cars and planes but i didn't have steady enough hands for fine detail work. some folks can even hand paint things that are normally stickers in the kit, like engine call-outs etc.
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The thing is SEM doesn't recommend hand painting. I assume it has to do with flow and brush marks. But as this is all hidden, faint brush marks would be acceptable. So brushing in the flat black would be my first choice.

Alot of unknowns. And they dont have a flat black in a can. A flattening agent has to be added. If I knew some other paint would work it would make life easier. only want to do this once.
 
Mattax said:
The thing is SEM doesn't recommend hand painting. I assume it has to do with flow and brush marks. But as this is all hidden, faint brush marks would be acceptable. So brushing in the flat black would be my first choice.

Alot of unknowns. And they dont have a flat black in a can. A flattening agent has to be added. If I knew some other paint would work it would make life easier. only want to do this once.
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could you use model paint? I mean its ABS plastic right?
 
So you all can see what Vacu-ornametal painted on the front.
The black is 'landau black'. Not sure what they use for the brushed aluminum look (aka argent)
upload_2020-5-26_9-14-38.png
 
dukeboy_318 said:
could you use model paint? I mean its ABS plastic right?
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That's the question!
The panel is ABS, but the coatings are not. Chrysler didn't put any coating on the back other than what looked like over spray.
But for whatever reasons I dont fully understand, during restoration they weren't able to keep the back masked when applying the chrome. Has something to do with the condition of the old plastic and the need to repeat the process.
 
halifaxhops said:
View attachment 1715535352
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Like the file name - dumb-jpg.1715535352
It must have taken 3-4 guys to set those blocks on the jacks like that.... If you have to use blocks to support anything they should never be used with the webs horizontal. put them on flat ground preferably with a board on top. And basically they are doing the dame thing they were designed to do in building a foundation. But as soon as you jack up part of the vehicle, there are sideways stresses at work on the blocks, so still far from ideal. I have used them that way to block up a car, but still throw stands in to get under it. That 2nd block above the green jack is really thin web. I wouldn't block my push mower up with that thing. :BangHead:
 
zkx14 said:
Like the file name - dumb-jpg.1715535352
It must have taken 3-4 guys to set those blocks on the jacks like that.... If you have to use blocks to support anything they should never be used with the webs horizontal. put them on flat ground preferably with a board on top. And basically they are doing the dame thing they were designed to do in building a foundation. But as soon as you jack up part of the vehicle, there are sideways stresses at work on the blocks, so still far from ideal. I have used them that way to block up a car, but still throw stands in to get under it. That 2nd block above the green jack is really thin web. I wouldn't block my push mower up with that thing. :BangHead:
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Needs a "hold my beer" caption!
 
Mattax said:
First.
Touch up the firewall. The spray can of enamal the local store mixed isn't close enough.
really shows up under the shop lights.
View attachment 1715535348

I've got two cans of Lucite from 1989. One was the wrong color - Daffodil Yellow, but figure I can use that to practice.
The other is the what was sprayed in the engine compartment got sprayed that year. There's enough left to use in an airbrush. It should be a good match even though Joe touched up a little in the bay when he painted the exterior.
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@Eddie348 found a place that has good color matches for the stock Mopar colors... His Dart looks like the same color as your car...

Before:

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After:

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