Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Unconventional said:
Been there! Thank God for clutches and ignition switches :steering:

:rofl: Now I can laugh about it
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OMG!!! In my 64 sport fury convertible 426 wedge, get off freeway in San Diego, waiting at a stop sign, tap the throttle, and it floors!!! No way brakes would hold it back!! Shot across the intersection and just missed traffic!!!!! Turned off the key, it dieseled for ever!!! SCARY!!!
 
Mopar Tim said:
OMG!!! In my 64 sport fury convertible 426 wedge, get off freeway in San Diego, waiting at a stop sign, tap the throttle, and it floors!!! No way brakes would hold it back!! Shot across the intersection and just missed traffic!!!!! Turned off the key, it dieseled for ever!!! SCARY!!!
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'66 Datsun pickup 215" aluminum Olds and a Saginaw following a spirited leave from a stop light :rolleyes:
It sure sounded good with those headers I built for it :D
 
I have seen throttle springs break because the guys would put the end in the cotter key hole. :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
 
toolmanmike said:
Looks like I should just put the 4 barrel on. Lots easier to put a fast idle solenoid on one of those.
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Go with the Holley 80457 with electric choke... Hook up the choke properly and get it adjusted and years of trouble free/stumble free service...

I've run these on 318's for decades with great success...

If you need help setting it up, let me know...

Holley 4160 Aluminum Street Carburetor
 
krazykuda said:
Go with the Holley 80457 with electric choke... Hook up the choke properly and get it adjusted and years of trouble free/stumble free service...

I've run these on 318's for decades with great success...

If you need help setting it up, let me know...

Holley 4160 Aluminum Street Carburetor
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I have a LD4B and a 650 AVS2.
 
I took a couple photos so I could see if I could adapt a Idle speed solenoid onto my 2 barrel. It doesn't look like it without a crazy looking bracket to get out past the accelerator pump rod. Either that or a long skinny solenoid for a import car. I saw some VW ones on the net that may work. Hate to buy one if it doesn't.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
well, i took it back apart, they were correct after all. Just really tight, really tight. Which is a good thing right?
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Yes. Mine is very tight, too. That's how they are. You do know, you're supposed to put a longer shaft through the cross shaft hole for leverage to turn the unit, right? It's actually really easy to do if you do it like the manual says. Clamp an axle in the vise, slide the unit over the splined end of the axle. Once you get the cross shaft out, get "something" like another shaft (I use a long extension) to turn the unit once you get it unloaded to get the side gears out.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes. Mine is very tight, too. That's how they are. You do know, you're supposed to put a longer shaft through the cross shaft hole for leverage to turn the unit, right? It's actually really easy to do if you do it like the manual says. Clamp an axle in the vise, slide the unit over the splined end of the axle. Once you get the cross shaft out, get "something" like another shaft (I use a long extension) to turn the unit once you get it unloaded to get the side gears out.
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yeah thats what i meant by the 6 ft break bar. I did exactly that.
 
Yup, 92 and humid here today, But I roughed it and got my Caddilac cleaned, and my 92 Ram, that hadn't been washed since my Son wrecked it. Gonna leave the Ram at the U Haul place, and it looked like ****...So.....
 
dukeboy_318 said:
yeah thats what i meant by the 6 ft break bar. I did exactly that.
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The Danas are definitely different to work on for sure. As Mike eluded to about the case spreader, I've seen people just struggle their asses off trying to do it without one. It's just so much easier to do it the right way. MOST ALL sailsbury style rears (those that unload from the rear) are supposed to use a case spreader, but hardly anybody does it and most people have a tough time without one. I've seen a LOT of people break carrier shims trying to beat them in with a hammer. Had they used a spreader, the whole thing will just fall right in.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The Danas are definitely different to work on for sure. As Mike eluded to about the case spreader, I've seen people just struggle their asses off trying to do it without one. It's just so much easier to do it the right way. MOST ALL sailsbury style rears (those that unload from the rear) are supposed to use a case spreader, but hardly anybody does it and most people have a tough time without one. I've seen a LOT of people break carrier shims trying to beat them in with a hammer. Had they used a spreader, the whole thing will just fall right in.
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noted, I will have to order one to put this thing in then. got any recommendations?
 
toolmanmike said:
I took a couple photos so I could see if I could adapt a Idle speed solenoid onto my 2 barrel. It doesn't look like it without a crazy looking bracket to get out past the accelerator pump rod. Either that or a long skinny solenoid for a import car. I saw some VW ones on the net that may work. Hate to buy one if it doesn't.
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Someone built an idle control here on the forums, basicaly a knob under dash he turned. Slick setup.
 
toolmanmike said:
I took a couple photos so I could see if I could adapt a Idle speed solenoid onto my 2 barrel. It doesn't look like it without a crazy looking bracket to get out past the accelerator pump rod. Either that or a long skinny solenoid for a import car. I saw some VW ones on the net that may work. Hate to buy one if it doesn't.
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About 20 years ago i put command start on my carbureted 1980 power wagon. Took longer to tune in carb than the remote start install.
Hit button,cable solenoid kicks throttle and engine would crank. After it starts it would kick throttle every 90 seconds while command start was activated.
I had the programming tool, so i set it to run an hour. Never let it run that long, but i could if i wanted to.
 
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