Stop in for a cup of coffee

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krazykuda said:
I told you those 5.9L engines are rockets....

I have my dad's 98 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.9L with quadra-track and it moves non-running cars around my back yard barely off idle... Torque monster....

It's quick and torquey, but drinks gas like a drunken sailor....
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I want to keep my 94/360 in the 3/4 ton. It has maybe 60,000 on the factory replacement engine.
 
shittyslant6 said:
Man, its almost been a week with no forum for me.
In the meantime, the duster had a charging issue and I found out both the VR and the Alternator (both alternators I had) were bad. This caused each test drive to end in pushing the car home.
I thought I fixed the issue by putting a jumper on the alternator but apparently not. I found out that it did not work on the way to the winter formal dance at my school.
It died in an intersection, and I had my mom bring my truck to take me the rest of the way. (about a 1/4 mile)

View attachment 1715822228
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If you haven't got it fixed yet, these guys are local to me and do a great job... They make their own windings/parts in house and they work great... Not that cheap Mexico no good crap that doesn't work right out of the box....

P&G Keene Electrical Rebuilders LLC
 
shittyslant6 said:
I think its trying to kill me.
The amount of times its just shut off in intersections is alarming. That was 6 I believe.
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Tooljunkie said:
You need to duplicate the problem without being in an intersection.
Foot on brake, vacuum booster, transmission load and brake lamps illuminated. Low voltage and it quits. Get a voltmeter to put under dash.
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I like having both volt meters and ammeters on my cars, so I can see if it's charging or discharging and what voltage I'm running...
 
shittyslant6 said:
Could I see the same change at the ammeter?
I know it was constantly discharging when it was running, and it really went down FAST whenever I turned the headlights on.
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Yes, if the ammeter is discharging, (reading below zero), then you are running off the battery...

You should have 12.6 Volts on a good battery with the engine off...

With the engine on, you should have between 13.3 - 15.0 volts...

If your ammeter is reading below 0, then you are discharging and running off the battery charge... It will run until the battery is dead, then you may jump it, but it will only run for a little bit, then die because the battery is not fully charged....
 
shittyslant6 said:
its not the only thing wrong with the wiring.
just all the little gremlins that it has.
nothing too extreme, just problems that fix themselves with no sign of anything wrong. Every once in a while the key will just do nothing. Its been fine for a few months, but when it happens it is just a ***** to deal with.
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shittyslant6 said:
also the rear running lights just stop working now and then, but when I look for shorts, or bad grounds, everything is fine.
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Check the connection at the bulkhead connector... Those are notorious for loosing connectivity.... Wiggle it some and it will come back when it dies....

Focus on the main wire with the fuseable link when this happens....

Alternator wiring is easy... The main wire that goes from the stud on the back will go to the bulkhead connector through to the factory ammeter on the dash (if equipped)....

Then follow the wiring diagrams in the factory service manual to find where the field wires (the ones with the flat terminals on the back of the alternator) go to... I believe one goes to the voltage regulator and the other to the ballast resistor...

Sorry, gotta restart my computer it's not responding on and off...
 
shittyslant6 said:
ok, if I get a buddy, could we just put the voltmeter on the battery? or the output stud on the alternator to see if it is charging?

New Swap, Not Charging
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You can use the voltmeter on any main positive wire to check voltage, not just the battery, but at the battery is the most accurate for checking your main system voltage...
 
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shittyslant6 said:
I am definitely trying to soak up as much info from everyone as possible, I'll get my voltmeter out when I put the new parts on to make sure it's fixed.
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Fix your under hood alternator wiring first... Not that hard, I'll walk you through it...

I like to go one gauge/step above the factory wiring just for safety....

First get some 16 gauge dark blue wire... Put a flat blade female terminal on it... You can crimp it on, or I like to solder them for better durability.... But for now, crimp the flat blade female terminal on one end of the wire and attach it where the blue field wire comes off the alternator... Just run this wire separate for now, you can tuck it in the wiring harness and tape it later if you wish, but this will get you running...

Here is the female flat blade connector that you will need for this end that goes to the alternator:

Flat Blade.JPG



Now run that wire down the passenger side valve cover to the firewall and you can use a small piece of tape to help run it along the existing wiring harness... Run it down the pass valve cover to the firewall and along the harness on the firewall across the engine compartment to the ballast resistor Taping it every 10" or so along the way to keep it following the wiring harness... Then when you know how long of wire you will need, cut it off and then put a piggyback terminal on the end that attaches to the ballast resistor.... a piggyback terminal looks like this:

* Make sure to put the shrink wrap on the wires before you connect the two ends together because you can't put it on after the wires are done....


Piggyback.JPG



You can get piggyback terminals from your local NAPA store:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO...jpG0Dl2ea4hGekdeXeuk-1637368319-0-gaNycGzNB1E



After attaching the piggyback terminal on the wire, pull the existing blue wire off the ballast resistor and attach the piggyback terminal to that side of the ballast resistor, then attach the factory wiring to the top spade of the piggyback terminal...

Now you have a good wire and connection to one of the field wires for the alternator...


Next, get some dark green 16 gauge wire and another regular female flat blade and make an end to go on the other field wire of the alternator...

Flat Blade.JPG



Run this green wire along with the blue one that you just ran, down the passenger side valve cover to the firewall and across the firewall to the voltage regulator... Take the connector for the voltage regulator and clip the green wire, leaving enough wire length on the end of the connector side that plugs into the voltage regulator... Solder the green wire that you just ran to the green wire that you left on the voltage regulator connector and then shrink wrap and tape over the splice to insulate it... Then connect the connector to the voltage regulator...

Here's a thread that will show you how to do a basic wire splice with solder:

How to do a Basic Wire Splice



Now get some 10 gauge black wire for the wire that goes to the stud and nut on the back of the alternator... Get a 10 awg 5/16 ring terminal to crimp on the end of the black wire that goes to the stud on the alternator... It looks like this:

upload_2021-11-19_18-55-51.png



NAPA carries these also...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_721323?impressionRank=6


Connect the end to the alternator and run the wire down the passenger side valve cover and along the firewall as you did with the other two... Run this wire down to the bulkhead connector... Find the "P" terminal on the bulkhead connector and cut the wire coming out of it leaving about 2" - 3" for you to connect to... Strip 1" - 1 1/2" of wire off the end that goes to the bulkhead connector and the new wire that you just ran, and solder them together... Then shrink wrap and tape to insulate it from shorting...


Here is the bulkhead connector "P" wire that you are looking for:

upload_2021-11-19_19-2-36.png



Here are the 72 Plymouth wiring diagrams to follow... If I remember correctly, you have a 72...

No highlights:

Engine Wiring Diagram CB.jpg


With highlights:

Engine Wiring Diagram C01C.jpg


If you need larger size pics for the wiring diagrams above, PM me your email and I can email them to you...


Now your under hood charging system wiring is all brand new and won't be a problem any more... The original wires are too old and stiff and can break too easily that could be causing some of your problem... Now you have eliminated the old wiring as your problem and can focus on the alternator and regulator....


Good luck, we're all counting on you...

 
Tooljunkie said:
Wish i made a video at this point in time. Alternator troubleshooting and wiring. Lets see what is bouncing around fabo…brb!

fail! So lets see what you have first of all. Install your new alt/reg and leave battery disconnected for the time being. I want pics of regulator mounted and connected. Same with alternator. And proof of battery grounds to firewall engine and battery.
If you do not have a volt meter,you should.
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I hope my post above will help him get his wiring in order...
 
Mopar Tim said:
They are arresting people for theft!!! Are they kidding???
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Like the difference between a ***** and a slut...

If they leave the door open and it blows all over, they are like a slut and giving it away for free.... :p
 
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