Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Hey guys.....Waiting on parts, might get sent back from POS post office...........we will see
 
Icetech said:
basically this kit.. i know they are crap but i didn't think it would be that bad
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Factory steel line is not easy to flare at the best of time, let alone with consumer friendly kits. If line is slipping,file a little off the inside of the tool bar. And use it with the long tail in the vise.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Factory steel line is not easy to flare at the best of time, let alone with consumer friendly kits. If line is slipping,file a little off the inside of the tool bar. And use it with the long tail in the vise.
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will try that, gonna practice on scrap this weekend..
 
Icetech said:
so.. i have questions... the only paint i shot before was single stage enamel which i LOVED... went on thick.. great shine and tough as nails.. my engine bay is single stage urethane and cause of my gas leak it got some on it and the paint crinkled right off.. is urethane that weak?

also.. i have tried twice now to make a hardline from the pump to the carb.. i cannot get it to not leak. i can only single flare, i noticed the factory used a double flare which my tool won't do.. double flare should work better?

Also.. my tans works! which was a major worry point.. at least it turns the axles.. no idea bout gears yet.. but it's a start.. after the fuel leak is fixed i will get water in it.. and pray these head gaskets don't leak. It sounds way better than i expected though in the video is is just noise.. very loud and cammy here and good throttle response.. Pretty impressed with the street demon, no drama and haven't touched a screw yet and it starts and runs good. Electric choke not wired yet too..
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Urethane is good but if you let gas sit on any paint for to long it will destroy the paint and if the paint hasn't cured completely then yea, wrinkle peel off and bubble up.
 
Frodee said:
Urethane is good but if you let gas sit on any paint for to long it will destroy the paint and if the paint hasn't cured completely then yea, wrinkle peel off and bubble up.
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it didn't sit on it long.. it was instant and the paint has been on for 6 months.. no idea.. i don't like this paint at all though, didn't lay down well or shine for ****, i almost feel like the guy sold me base coat as single stage
 
Icetech said:
it didn't sit on it long.. it was instant and the paint has been on for 6 months.. no idea.. i don't like this paint at all though, didn't lay down well or shine for ****, i almost feel like the guy sold me base coat as single stage
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Yea base coat will do that for sure without a clear coat on top.
 
Icetech said:
dunno what to do bout this fuel line.. i don't wanna spend $150 for a good flare kit to do 1 flare. this cheap kit is supposed to double flare but it wouldn't even start to move the metal with the first stage tool in it. I don't like where the factory/pre bent put the fuel filter but i might just have to buy lines.. already got like $100 into trying to make 1 line.. (tools and all)
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Doesn't Napa or similar have that kind of kit on loaner/rent?
 
Frodee said:
Yea base coat will do that for sure without a clear coat on top.
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yeah, it even says on the can to not clear coat.. i am not super happy with the engine bay paint.. if i ever redo the motor i will reshoot it
 
Factory fuel filter locations are located in a relatively cool spot with the outlet higher than the inlet.
If you can't use that, what I've done is buy steel line that's already flared for the fuel pump connection. Rebend, and or cut and attach steel line with compression fittings. At one time I had access to fancy pants compression fittings, but for carbureted fuel pressures any run of the mill brass or stst union will hold quite well.

Thought no. 2. Buy the fricken Imperial Eastman kit because somewhere down the line you'll be making more flares. That's what I told myself anyway. Same when I bought the Parker 'bubble' type hose flare kit (used). Haven't used it yet. So it goes. But one day I will!
 
Mattax said:
Factory fuel filter locations are located in a relatively cool spot with the outlet higher than the inlet.
If you can't use that, what I've done is buy steel line that's already flared for the fuel pump connection. Rebend, and or cut and attach steel line with compression fittings. At one time I had access to fancy pants compression fittings, but for carbureted fuel pressures any run of the mill brass or stst union will hold quite well.

Thought no. 2. Buy the fricken Imperial Eastman kit because somewhere down the line you'll be making more flares. That's what I told myself anyway. Same when I bought the Parker 'bubble' type hose flare kit (used). Haven't used it yet. So it goes. But one day I will!
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I have a couple of tools that fit that usage/description, love the honesty!
 
Mattax said:
Factory fuel filter locations are located in a relatively cool spot with the outlet higher than the inlet.
If you can't use that, what I've done is buy steel line that's already flared for the fuel pump connection. Rebend, and or cut and attach steel line with compression fittings. At one time I had access to fancy pants compression fittings, but for carbureted fuel pressures any run of the mill brass or stst union will hold quite well.

Thought no. 2. Buy the fricken Imperial Eastman kit because somewhere down the line you'll be making more flares. That's what I told myself anyway. Same when I bought the Parker 'bubble' type hose flare kit (used). Haven't used it yet. So it goes. But one day I will!
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i hadn't even thought bout compression fittings, that would work fine and i have my original fuel line from 62, that end would work fine. if i can't get it to flare properly i will try that, thanks :)
 
ok.. the 45 degree thing is interesting.. i might redo my setup now..
 
So this evening's coffee is Brooklyn Brown Ale. Been a while, but seemed like a good match. Also bought some Victory Sour - that can wait although it was tempting. :)
 
Icetech said:
I usually put my filter horizontal right next to the carb (a little forward of the carb), is there a reason to not do that? the premade lines i see for 318s seemto put it below the pump or vertical by the head...
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Try to tip it so the outlet will let vapor to push past the inlet valve first. I think on my Baracuda its more like 35-40 degrees but thats the idea. Also if the vapor gets so hot that it develops enough pressure to force open the inlet valve, it won't push as much fuel into the bowl.

I suffered too long with flooding issues and was glad to find that tip
 
Busy day went and bought a new toilet the old one just crapped out. I took out the old and replaced it dang those things are heavy when you're lifting by yourself. I felt a strain so refreshing with a 1792 liquid IV. Be safe...oh basketball is back on...YEA!!
 
Mattax said:
I suffered too long with flooding issues and was glad to find that tip
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Be drinving along on the interstate and let up on the throttle to exit and it would sometimes flood. Part of that was the mechanical pump's spring. But just an example of the type of flooding that would be me in the ***. Then I'd open the fuel level sight plug and drain some fuel onto a rag.
 
Icetech said:
yeah, it even says on the can to not clear coat.. i am not super happy with the engine bay paint.. if i ever redo the motor i will reshoot it
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Best to strip the paint off if you redo it. Would be nice if the paint can said, " **** for paint and will not hold up to any type of chemical."
 
ZMan67S said:
Busy day went and bought a new toilet the old one just crapped out
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ZMan67S said:
Busy day went and bought a new toilet the old one just crapped out. I took out the old and replaced it dang those things are heavy when you're lifting by yourself. I felt a strain so refreshing with a 1792 liquid IV. Be safe...oh basketball is back on...YEA!!
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**** Graig it's hard enough lifting my *** off the toilet without lifting the damn toilet along with my ***.
 
Frodee said:
Best to strip the paint off if you redo it. Would be nice if the paint can said, " **** for paint and will not hold up to any type of chemical."
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Yeah, thinking bout it i was cleaning something with rubbing alcohol in the bay once after painting and it picked paint up also... I think it's just **** paint... that's what i get for going cheap.. what sucks is i have another quart i was gonna use to paint my fenders, i bought from the place cause the color match is perfect
 
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