Stop in for a cup of coffee

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zkx14 said:
I'm in for lunch/cool down break. Thermo shows 81 of the 90+ we are expecting. Took the car outside so I could see what I am doing better and the upper surfaces are hot as hell. Got the trunk and top sanded before they got too bad though. Working on quarters now. Only have a few spots so far that need any glaze. Might need another roll of 240. I use the air gun to blow it out and reuse when it clogs, but it's 'pilling' a lot. Maybe the heat?
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do you look like Casper yet?
 
I'm actually almost tempted to watch Alien Covenant. I seriously doubt I'll be able to convince my wife to come along, though.
 
ScampMike said:
it's a dirty hobby you have there
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This is a relatively clean job compared to cutting and grinding, cleaning rust from parts... Not complaining about sanding. Now the temperature I may complain a little... We just go from one extreme to another. I mean really, two 90+days in May? Last time I recall that was when I pulled the motor. :wtf:
 
zkx14 said:
This is a relatively clean job compared to cutting and grinding, cleaning rust from parts... Not complaining about sanding. Now the temperature I may complain a little... We just go from one extreme to another. I mean really, two 90+days in May? Last time I recall that was when I pulled the motor. :wtf:
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take a day off (like tomorrow) - supposed to be low 70's Saturday
 
zkx14 said:
I'm in for lunch/cool down break. Thermo shows 81 of the 90+ we are expecting. Took the car outside so I could see what I am doing better and the upper surfaces are hot as hell. Got the trunk and top sanded before they got too bad though. Working on quarters now. Only have a few spots so far that need any glaze. Might need another roll of 240. I use the air gun to blow it out and reuse when it clogs, but it's 'pilling' a lot. Maybe the heat?
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Pilling, what primer did you use?
 
Oh this gonna be good. New coworker is a long time race car builder!
 
zkx14 said:
just builds up a little on the paper. rustoleum cans. This stuff wet sands really nice, not quite as good dry.
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uggh! I don't like spray bomb primers........ they never seem to cure out and that could be why it's gumballing on the paper.
 
GeorgeH said:
uggh! I don't like spray bomb primers........ they never seem to cure out and that could be why it's gumballing on the paper.
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I really liked the way the paint went on where I used it before. So was figuring on using it all the way through. Need to do a few more spot fixes then figure final prime and wet sand. Might get something for the gun. It was kinda a pain to spray bomb the whole car. At this point I am still planning Shopline single, but not etched in stone. I may give another look at the Dimension stuff. Rays neighbor swears by their B/C. If I go that route I would see what the sell as compatible primer.
 
zkx14 said:
I really liked the way the paint went on where I used it before. So was figuring on using it all the way through. Need to do a few more spot fixes then figure final prime and wet sand. Might get something for the gun. It was kinda a pain to spray bomb the whole car. At this point I am still planning Shopline single, but not etched in stone. I may give another look at the Dimension stuff. Rays neighbor swears by their B/C. If I go that route I would see what the sell as compatible primer.
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When you get your paint, you might want to take a piece of metal and do a little test panel. Prime it with your spray bomb, scuff it and shoot a little paint on it and see how it does. Sometimes you can have a problem because in essence you're putting a faster drying product on top of a non catalyzed slow drying product that never technically cures. Sometimes that faster drying paint with a more aggressive solvent can bite into that non catalyzed softer primer and turn it into wrinkle finish. Sometimes it can be fine and sometimes not. If the Dimension is anything like the older SW the base is pretty "hot" where the PPG used a standard reducer that's less aggressive. The Napa guys don't generally know the product that well where as a PPG jobber will better able to answer any questions. To do a final prime, I would probably be looking into a sanding type epoxy primer/sealer as it would do a better job at sealing it up and stopping solvent penetration. I'm just saying because I've had tons of problems with spray bomb primers, even with the ones marketed to bodyshops. Usually when it decides to wrinkle you're halfway around the car and you're back to square one stripping it. Been there more then once and it's a real mess. Epoxy! Oh, and I'm not trying to scare you. lol
 
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GeorgeH said:
When you get your paint, you might want to take a piece of metal and do a little test panel. Prime it with your spray bomb, scuff it and shoot a little paint on it and see how it does. Sometimes you can have a problem because in essence you're putting a faster drying product on top of a non catalyzed slow drying product that never technically cures. Sometimes that faster drying paint with a more aggressive solvent can bite into that non catalyzed softer primer and turn it into wrinkle finish. Sometimes it can be fine and sometimes not. If the Dimension is anything like the older SW the base is pretty "hot" where the PPG used a standard reducer that's less aggressive. The Napa guys don't generally know the product that well where as a PPG jobber will better able to answer any questions. To do a final prime, I would probably be looking into a sanding type epoxy primer/sealer as it would do a better job at sealing it up and stopping solvent penetration. I'm just saying because I've had tons of problems with spray bomb primers, even with the ones marketed to bodyshops. Usually when it decides to wrinkle you're halfway around the car and you're back to square one stripping it. Been there more then once and it's a real mess. Epoxy! Oh, and I'm not trying to scare you. lol
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Ok, I get what you are saying about the diff solvent and one being hotter. I have already used the PPG over this and it worked great. If I decide on the SW, I will get a primer there that they recommend.

scratch-head03-idea-animated-animat.gif
 
To give a an example, I had a problem with the vette I'm doing on the right side because my FIL at one point spray bombed the door jambs black years ago and it still wrinkled in some corners where I didn't get every last little bit off. So now i have to dig through sealer, 3 coats of black, 4 coats of pearl, and 2 coats of clear. Luckily it's only a couple small areas I can touch up.
 
zkx14 said:
Ok, I get what you are saying about the diff solvent and one being hotter. I have already used the PPG over this and it worked great. If I decide on the SW, I will get a primer there that they recommend.

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If the PPG worked stick with it. I've probably mentioned somewhere where I prefer PPG because it's more user friendly, and more stable when it get's to mixing and matching different companies products or having a redo where you're repainting over fresh clear.
 
Afternoon. Just got off the phone with Krazykuda. Karl said he is fine just taking a break, and waiting on the hand to heal.
 
GeorgeH said:
To give a an example, I had a problem with the vette I'm doing on the right side because my FIL at one point spray bombed the door jambs black years ago and it still wrinkled in some corners where I didn't get every last little bit off. So now i have to dig through sealer, 3 coats of black, 4 coats of pearl, and 2 coats of clear. Luckily it's only a couple small areas I can touch up.
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Have never done anything close to that type of painting, but have seen the wrinkle you speak of just going from one brand of spray bomb to another... or even brushing paint over spray paint :BangHead:
 
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