Strange S60 Rear End Help

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BHB4408

BHB4408

BHB4408
Joined
Aug 29, 2022
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Location
Edgewood, WA
I am ordering a new Strange S60 Rear End for my 72 Dodge Dart drag car with Mini-Tubs and a Narrowed rear end. I need to give Strange the Pinion Angle for the build before they weld on the leaf Spring Mounts. I don't have the Engine or Transmission built yet, so I don't know my driveshaft angle. It's a 440 block, with 727 transmission. The car will be set up to run mid-10's.

Can an experienced Big Block A-Body guy (person) tell me how I should have Strange position the Pinon Angle as they weld on the leaf spring mounts? I don't mind fine tuning with tapered shims, but I don't want to use more than one on each leaf.

Appreciate any thoughts or advice you have. Thank you,
 
Really need to know what angle the perches sit at ride height to determine where they need to be burned to to achieve 5 degrees down on pinion. It’s a lot easier to get right on the car with full weight on wheels
 
Depends of what leaf springs your going to use also, Super Stocks vs Calvert springs would be different angles.
 
Leave the perches loose and have them welded on once the car is put together. With leaf springs you can't guess since the leafs move around a ton. If you have a Calvert setup you might be able to mock it up but even then I'd wait until the car was together. If you have a four link you can figure out where it all needs to go before the car is built but leaf springs are tricky to figure out unless you have an identical car to measure.
 
When I ordered my S60, I told them not to weld them on and just ship them with the rear end. You really have no idea how to position it until the axle is under the car, and the car is on the ground with weight in it. I ordered mine through Dr. Diff, and he made it easy.
 
I use the Super Stock (OEM) Leafs. Hope that helps to get me headed in the right direction.

I can mount the raw 440 block and transmission in the car, then put my crank, heads, intake, etc... and other engine pieces on top of the block, and find my driveline angle using a straight-edge from the tail-shaft center on the trans, to the pinion center at the rear. Would that help?
 
Vertex_Jeff; I was afraid that any good welder (I'm not) would warp the axle shafts by welding them on after the car is built. Wouldn't the housing warp? Wouldn't I have to have the housing checked and straightened after they are welded?

I'll call Dr. Diff. Thank you,
 
If you have a weldor with a modicum of experience, they won't warp it by putting the perches on. I have welded perches onto a handful of 8 3/4 housings which are relatively thin stamped steel with no issues. My S-60 was fine after my welding job on the perches.

Remember, the S60 is not a 1 piece, stamped steel housing like the 8 3/4. It has thicker axle tubes that are pressed and welded into the iron center casting. It is all very strong - and I think you will be fine.
 
As long as you are even 1/2 way close on the perches you can use Degree wedges
(Shims) to adjust the rear end when assembled. I would have them welded on 3 Degree
down and adjust them from there when I assembled the car with your Superstock springs.

I use wet towels and keep the housing cool particularly on 8 3/4 when welding on the perches.
 
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Plus u have to remember that no 2 cars are the same. I’ve done cars that the side to side relationship was off therefore needing to move the rear end over to 1 side to have the wheels centered in the wheel wells. Don’t take anything for granted. Kim
 
Thanks to all of you. I've had a number of racers at the track tell me to have the perches welded at 4 degrees down, the same basic info that GTX John suggested, then be prepared to use the shims to fine tune the pinion angle. I'm bracket racing as a retirement hobby, and only running in the mid 10's. If anyone thinks this is a mistake, please let me know. On Tuesday, I'll have Dr. Diff give me the final answer, and place the order. Thanks again.
 
BHB4408 said:
Thanks to all of you. I've had a number of racers at the track tell me to have the perches welded at 4 degrees down, the same basic info that GTX John suggested, then be prepared to use the shims to fine tune the pinion angle. I'm bracket racing as a retirement hobby, and only running in the mid 10's. If anyone thinks this is a mistake, please let me know. On Tuesday, I'll have Dr. Diff give me the final answer, and place the order. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
No mistake, have fun. Hopefully see you out at a track sometime. By the way mine is set between 5-6 degrees. I'm running caltrac split mono leafs and assassin bars ( untested but getting close)
 
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