Strange torsion bar issue on my 1965 barracuda. Please Help.

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guido

guido

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Hi Guys,
I wasn't able to read the stamped numbers on my T-Bars yet, but I measured them from underneath at about .860 to .880 or so in diameter.
Does anyone know the torsion bar p/ns. [I know there are 2 p/n's, even and odd, for left and right side].

Here is my problem. I crank in the torsion bar adjustment bolt, and it doesn't really raise up the front. [I also have a 1964 that adjusts correctly].
Both cars have the same dia. torsion bars. and the same size oversize 15" tires.
The distance from the ground to the bottom center of the wheel well on my '64 as currently adjusted is 25-3/4".
The 65 after adjusting is only at 24-1/4 on one side, and 23-7/8 on the passenger side so the tires hit the wheel well. [I can't get them even]
The '65 has a front disc brake conversion and the stock s. box.
The '64 has 9" front drums with the Borgeson s. box conversion.

I am thinking the torsion bars are weak, since I can see the adjuster moving up and down, as I turn the adjusting bolt.
No binding in the suspension. and if it does raise up... after driving it settles back down to almost where it was before adjusting as if I never adjusted the bolt
Am I correct in thinking the torsion bars are weak?
And where do I get 'new stock' dia. torsion bars? [if they make them]
I really don't want to go to a bigger diameter T-bar, I am afraid it will stiffen up the ride.
Angelo aka Guido
 
The factory bars you would want to use are 340 bars 892 , 893 or 318 890, 891 slant 6 888 , 889. Big block cars or 68 340 4spd are 894, 895
 
torsion bars.jpg
 
There is a left and a right to them, hence the different numbers on them.

You may have them swapped side for side.

Even number Right
Odd number Left

Can read the numbers on them if you clean the grease off their ends at the transmission crossmember sockets. Then get in there with a good light to read them.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
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If adjusting the bars doesn’t keep the ride height where it needs to be it could very well be that the bars are worn out. Torsion bars “sag” like any spring does over time, but it ends up being radially rather than vertically with say a leaf or coil spring. You can compensate with the adjusters for awhile, but eventually you just run out of adjustment.

Other issues could include the torsion bar sockets in the transmission crossmember, if the crossmember rusts the sockets can break free which will also result in losing ride height. That and the LCA pivot tube breaking loose from inside the K frame.

So I would check the car over for rust and structural damage and check the condition of the bushings and suspension components. But barring any of that it’s probably just worn out torsion bars.
 
You can't expect to see instant height changes when turning the adjusting screw. And measuring from the ground to the body is not how you measure ride height. Read the Factory Service Manual for a description of how to measure ride height, and how to adjust it properly.

At the very least, you need to bounce the front corner hard on the suspension 3 or 4 times after every adjustment, to give the rest of the suspension a chance to settle into the new height.
 
Don’t be afraid to step up to something like a 1.03 bar. The ride will stiffen up a little but it’s a nicer ride than the stock mushiness. That is if your TB crossmember isn’t rusted through or the LCA pivot tubes have broke loose.
 
So if you turn the adjustment screw and the ride height stays the same, the threads may be stripped in the LCA. Of course we know you are only turning that screw with the vehicle raised, supported by the frame and the wheels hanging in the air. But maybe somebody before you tried to change the ride height with vehicle sitting with weight on it's wheels and FUBARed the treads.
 
Could it be rust they were installed with the adjusting cam not all the way bottomed out? I had to spray and beat the LCA down on the 71 Cuda I was working on, to get the hex to the next clock spot, it hasn’t all the way down. After getting it to drop all the way, the torsion bar adjusted right up.
 
Great answers!!!! I reached out to Bergman Auto Craft they recommended 1.08 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks Dynamic strut rods and offset upper control arm bushings to increase camber. I am concerned about 1.08 dia torsion bars being too stiff.
Any thoougts?
Who else sells torsion bars for the 65 cuda
 
guido said:
Great answers!!!! I reached out to Bergman Auto Craft they recommended 1.08 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks Dynamic strut rods and offset upper control arm bushings to increase camber. I am concerned about 1.08 dia torsion bars being too stiff.
Any thoougts?
Who else sells torsion bars for the 65 cuda
Click to expand...

Torsion bars for a '65 Barracuda are the same as all A-body torsion bars. Besides BergmanAutoCraft, you can also get torsion bars from PST, Firm Feel, Sway Away and even some Mopar Performance bars are still sold at places like Summit.

As for the 1.08's being too stiff, if you run them with Bilstein shocks they shouldn't be. It really depends on what you're after. These cars came with wheel rates around 100 lb/in, which is ridiculously soft by any modern standard. Most modern cars have wheel rates around 200 lb/in, and those are just basic commute cars not sports handling stuff. I honestly wouldn't run anything smaller than 1" on these cars, even for just a basic cruiser. I actually had 1" bars on my Duster for awhile, with just plain old replacement shocks from Monroe and 225/60/15's all the way around. And even with that set up the car was quite soft.

The factory bars are so soft that ride quality is actually compromised, even near the stock ride height the suspension will bottom out quite frequently. The bump stops are progressive, so it's not always noticeable, but every time your get into the bump stops the effective wheel rate changes dramatically.

PST is a site sponsor, and they sell 1.03" bars which are pretty popular. I've been running 1.12" bars on my Duster for years and tens of thousands of street miles, I don't think they're too stiff. Much more along the lines of how modern sports/muscle cars are set up. But those are probably "too stiff" for what most people want on these cars.
 
guido said:
Great answers!!!! I reached out to Bergman Auto Craft they recommended 1.08 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks Dynamic strut rods and offset upper control arm bushings to increase camber. I am concerned about 1.08 dia torsion bars being too stiff.
Any thoougts?
Who else sells torsion bars for the 65 cuda
Click to expand...
You meant caster right? Not camber.
 
If while cranking on the adjuster, you see the spoon move, AND do not see the crossmember end rotate, then something is wrong.
Either the LCA is not able to rotate, or the bar is busted on the LCA side of the spoon, or the bar is extremely tired.
I don't see any other possibility.
 
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