street/strip 4 speed???

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71cuda1990

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Just wondering what 4 speed you all would recommend for a street/ strip application. It's not imperitive that it be 4 speed it could be a 5 speed too but I do want a manual. Love jammin' gears!:burnout: The plan is to build a big block (most likely 440 stroker) street sleeper capable of 10s in the 1/4. Back halved, 4 link, 29" drag radials 3000lbs. Somewhere in the realm of 800 HP according to the online calculator I used. I've checked into the G Force G-101 and Jerico transmissions. Couldn't find prices for either. Budget is an issue as always but I also am a big believer in "you get what you pay for." So anyone using either of these trannys or have another suggestion? Can an 833 even be built to handle that kind of power?:dontknow: Much appreciate everyone's help.
 
Good luck with your build when you get started. I admire you trying to go manual, would be very cool. I have a feeling if you meet your power goals along with the associated torque that goes with it, you'll have to go big on the trans. I nosed around a little and it will likely take a big part of the budget when all is said and done. I like the looks of the G-101 4 spd. Might be able to be bought cheaper, but here's a link that actually shows a price.
http://www.paradiseracing.com/Store...ufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
 
At the power level you are looking at you will need a Jerico DR4 or G-Force 101. 833 are the strongest factory 4spd ever made but they do have there limitations. Jericos and G-Forces are about $4500 to $5000 new. I picked up a jerico for $2000 used in great shape they are out there just keep looking. Now the rest of the bad news you will "need" a $2000 to $3000 slipper clutch ( Mcleod soft-loc, Advanced, Bonnifonte, or equivalent)or you will be breaking every part in the drive line( ask me how I know) and for get the drag radials they do not work on high powered stick cars, once they break loose they will not recover (the sudden snap of a gear change) call M/T or Hoosier they will tell you the same thing, bias ply are all that work.
 
At the power level you are looking at you will need a Jerico DR4 or G-Force 101. 833 are the strongest factory 4spd ever made but they do have there limitations. Jericos and G-Forces are about $4500 to $5000 new. I picked up a jerico for $2000 used in great shape they are out there just keep looking. Now the rest of the bad news you will "need" a $2000 to $3000 slipper clutch ( Mcleod soft-loc, Advanced, Bonnifonte, or equivalent)or you will be breaking every part in the drive line( ask me how I know) and for get the drag radials they do not work on high powered stick cars, once they break loose they will not recover (the sudden snap of a gear change) call M/T or Hoosier they will tell you the same thing, bias ply are all that work.

Thanks for the info. Forgive my ignorance but I've never heard of a "slipper clutch." Could you explain the theory and how they work? I looked at Mcleod's website at their Soft-Lok and it says not recommended for street use. So would something like this work better for my application?http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/RXT+Twin+Disc.mcl
Plus I really like the price tag alot compared to the Soft-Lok. And I thought bias-plys weren't recommended for the street like at all. Too much sidewall flex in the corners. Again forgive my ignorance I'm pretty new to all this. :newb:
 
You,d be better off going auto with 800hp,unless you have mucho dunaro,s $$.You can race with a 4 speed,but be prepared to have breakage each outing as 19Dart66 has mentioned.Good luck...Been there/Done that.
 
Jerichos are crap for street use. Had a couple in street strip applications and didn't care for them when cruising. If you have some cash to blow just by a lenco if you really want to go fast and have accurate shifts. 833's can be made to handle some serious hp and abuse. Call stick only in sun valley Ca and they can build you a tranny that is wicked. They have built several for me and I have yet to have issues with them.
 
You,d be better off going auto with 800hp,unless you have mucho dunaro,s $$.You can race with a 4 speed,but be prepared to have breakage each outing as 19Dart66 has mentioned.Good luck...Been there/Done that.

I realize I'd probably be better off going auto but I'm pretty commited to going manual. Everybody can do a fast car with an auto but a 10 second car with a stick. That would be something. (Of course I mean no disrespect to those who have built an auto car. A 10 Second car with any style trans is pretty impressive.)
 
I realize I'd probably be better off going auto but I'm pretty commited to going manual. Everybody can do a fast car with an auto but a 10 second car with a stick. That would be something. (Of course I mean no disrespect to those who have built an auto car. A 10 Second car with any style trans is pretty impressive.)


Just point and shoot with an auto, but not everybody can do it and do it day in and day out without missing a gear but it whole hell of alot funner
 
Well after much deliberation and calling and talking to several reps I've decided I will be running the G Force G-101a with a Mcleod Racing RXT twin disc and their "zero balance" flywheel. This whole set up is gonna run me right around $5,500 when you factor in the Quicktime bellhousing. Time to start saving my pennies. To clear up any confusion I called and spoke directly to Mcleod and they informed that their Soft-Lok is stricly a racing clutch and not recommended for any street driving what-so-ever, as stated on their website. Plus the RXT is about a 1000 bucks cheaper.
http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_g101a.asp
http://mcleodracing.com/products/RXT+Twin+Disc.mcl
http://mcleodracing.com/products/Steel+Flywheels.mcl
 
I don't want to disappoint you but that clutch is going to be a parts breaker. You can run a soft-loc on the street you just have to turn the pressure up. Running 800 hp mill on the street is not easy ether, the G-Force is a face plated trans like the Jerico(as in no syncros or like driving a roadranger trans in a big rig, double clutch or match road speed with rpm and slide it in to gear). The soft-loc is a sintered iron clutch disc with an adjustable pressure plate( they adjust from about 150# to 1800# static pressure and then there's the counterweight or centrifugal weight adjustment)these clutches slip just enough to save the drive line and actually in most cases make the car faster. BEFORE YOU BUY ANY THING GO TO THIS WEB SITE(www.umtrnorth.com) AND READ ALL YOU CAN AND SIGN UP AND ASK QUESTIONS THEY WILL HELP YOU OUT. GOOD LUCK AND STICK CARS RULE!
 
71cuda1990 there is and ad on RacingJunk.com under transmissions AD# 2706026 for a complete Jerico and advanced dual 7" clutch set up for a Hemi or big block mopar for $5750.00
DR4-4 trans
Long Shifter( vertigate)
Advance dual 7" clutch and flywheel(clutch was just freshened by Tim Hyatt)
Quicktime or lakewood bellhousing
This is a pretty good deal, He just dropped it from $6500 to $5750 mite be some more wiggle room in there. Good Luck Again
 
That is a great deal. Unfortunately I'm not ready to buy yet. Too many things going on right now. Oh and thanks for the link to UMTR North. Awesome site. I signed up for their forum now I'm just waiting on an email saying my registration's been excepted. Is there usually a long waiting list? Well looks like I have alot more reading and researching to do.
 
19Dart66, as always you are a wealth of Knowledge to those of us who are commited stick car racers.....Oh and thank for the UMTRnorth link as well. I always wondered if you raced your car on that circuit. I'm hoping to finish up the Dakota and go racing next year. My 63 Dart is going to take a little longer to get everything in order...... I hope the thread poster sticks to his guns and builds the stick car he wants. There are far too few of us out there.
 
19Dart66, as always you are a wealth of Knowledge to those of us who are commited stick car racers.....Oh and thank for the UMTRnorth link as well. I always wondered if you raced your car on that circuit. I'm hoping to finish up the Dakota and go racing next year. My 63 Dart is going to take a little longer to get everything in order...... I hope the thread poster sticks to his guns and builds the stick car he wants. There are far too few of us out there.

Abodyman you have nothing to fear. I fully intend to build a stick car and go whoop up on all the auto guys.:D Just got more research, reading, and learning to do before I settle on what clutch setup I want. Pretty much made up my mind on going with the G Force but still kicking around the clutch. Still waiting to get on the UMTRNorth site. I won't have the funds to start on the engine and trans till I reenlist in a couple years so I have plenty of time to make up my mind.
 
71cuda1990, one thing you can do is talk with Leonard Long (Gforce trans owner) he can recommend a clutch setup for you. He races in the Prostick Association class, that I'm building my Dakota for. He is an awesome guy and a great resource. Also definitely join UMTR North. I need to blow up the Tko-600, I wasted money on before I can set up to a gforce. If I may give some advice, pick a plan and stick with it, it's difficult to build a street/strip application. Difficult and expensive. That is one of the reason's I'm still in the building faze on my Dakota and not the driving/racing faze.
 
Been running an 833 and mild 383. 12.80 @ 103 MPH. I use a center force dual friction clutch and pressure plate. The only mods to the tranny are steel shifter forks. ( highly recommended).
I have a Dana 60 with pro gears and 35 spline axles, and I use a hurst inline shifter. The car weighs 2975 ( 3185 with me in it)

I have an aluminum pro shifted 833 that came out of the Lee Brothers 68 barracuda that was the first 4 spd hemi Cuda in the 8's

Its old school but should be good for 10 sec with no problems. I plan on upgrading to a McLeod soft lock clutch to save on parts and help launch the car with more consistency.
 
I like the fact that you want a stick. Not too many Mopars running manuals. Watching auto after auto on the track gets old after a while. :violent2:
 
I like the fact that you want a stick. Not too many Mopars running manuals. Watching auto after auto on the track gets old after a while. :violent2:

Definitely agree with you on that one, that's another reason why I'll always build stick cars. I like the fun factor and watching the driver's drive.
 
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