Stroke it baby!

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Speedfreak

Speedfreak

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Hello all, so I'm having troubles narrowing down my engine swap choices for my 72 Scamp. I would really like to do a stroker, and I'm looking for a ten second car basically. What are some good strokers that aren't super high dollar out there ?

pictures and build threads always welcome!
 
I'm also looking to do that exact same thing to the exact same car:burnout:
I have found eagle rotating assemblies to stroke it to the 408 as soon as I can convince my wife that we need it lol
 
Ten second (10.00) or in the tens (10.99-10.00)? Big differences there. How much do you have to spend on driveline? What is the chassis now? What class do you want to run?
 
Engine is only about half the money you'll spend...like moper alluded to, you're gonna need chassis and suspension upgrades to run 10s...
 
Buy a Scat crank. Eagle is junk. Have heard this from several engine builders. Ask Mike from MRL Perfomance and see what he says.
 
moper said:
Ten second (10.00) or in the tens (10.99-10.00)? Big differences there. How much do you have to spend on driveline? What is the chassis now? What class do you want to run?
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Sorry you are right. In the tens. Mid tens would be nice. Pro street class. (its all bracket racing here really) I have no money lol but Im not really concered overly with cost and time. Im not expecting a quick or cheap.finish to this car I have no illusoins about what Im getting into $$$$
 
woody30 said:
Buy a Scat crank. Eagle is junk. Have heard this from several engine builders. Ask Mike from MRL Perfomance and see what he says.
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Eagle cast cranks are the ones having problems...not there forged cranks..
 
What are your wants/needs,out of the car?Pump gas,race gas? Street /strip,track only? Build a 408,expensive. But worth it.
 
If you have no money - you need to back away slowly from this plan... the only way a car goes mid-10s with no money is it's a 16 second car that gets rear ended by a 7 second car...
 
moper said:
If you have no money - you need to back away slowly from this plan... the only way a car goes mid-10s with no money is it's a 16 second car that gets rear ended by a 7 second car...
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Haha more or less a joke. I have no money because I bought the car haha this is not a budget build. I will be part collecting on pay days for a couple years or more. I am young it doesn't need to hit the streets anytime soon, give me a chance to work out my inner speed demon in something slower IE safer first HAHA. And tens is merely the dream, I'm not going to go cry and sell the car if it run 11s r even 12s.
 
Abodybomber said:
What are your wants/needs,out of the car?Pump gas,race gas? Street /strip,track only? Build a 408,expensive. But worth it.
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I want to hit the track and strip and drive it off the track and around town and cruise it to work,etc in the summers, so pump gas and streetable track.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I am hitting BIR this Wednesday with my 408 stroker / 200R4 / Dana 60 4.10. I hope to break into the 10's but I have never raced on a track and don't know what to expect.

hahaha LOVE the picture! That's a Badass Dart man! let me know your times!! pictures and videos would be stellar! :prayer:
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Speedfreak said:
Haha more or less a joke. I have no money because I bought the car haha this is not a budget build. I will be part collecting on pay days for a couple years or more. I am young it doesn't need to hit the streets anytime soon, give me a chance to work out my inner speed demon in something slower IE safer first HAHA. And tens is merely the dream, I'm not going to go cry and sell the car if it run 11s r even 12s.
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Please don;t take offense at this - you're young and I've been there - I get it. But I think you should just start with what you have. If you want to be a great bracket racer - the best and most successful started with bone stock slow cars. You need track time and to take some bulbs. If you're good enough you might actually win some money too. Modify what you have a little at a time. If it's a slant 6, get so you can repeat reaction times (the car will repeat on it's own once you're moving). Then look at swapping in a milder V8. Tweak that until it's perfect and repeatable regardless of weather. Then upgrade the rear end and suspension with an eye to going faster. Then update the chassis for the same thing - all the while racing the car as much as you can. You'll get to be a much better racer by paying entry fees and racing slower than buying parts to sit on a shelf while the car get's taken apart and can't be reassembled because there's no money. Racers get good with seat time - not by going low ETs. Everything you've asked about by virtue of that last sentence tells me this is just a pipe dream at this point. A baker needs a recipe and patience long before he needs an oven.
 
moper said:
Please don;t take offense at this - you're young and I've been there - I get it. But I think you should just start with what you have. If you want to be a great bracket racer - the best and most successful started with bone stock slow cars. You need track time and to take some bulbs. If you're good enough you might actually win some money too. Modify what you have a little at a time. If it's a slant 6, get so you can repeat reaction times (the car will repeat on it's own once you're moving). Then look at swapping in a milder V8. Tweak that until it's perfect and repeatable regardless of weather. Then upgrade the rear end and suspension with an eye to going faster. Then update the chassis for the same thing - all the while racing the car as much as you can. You'll get to be a much better racer by paying entry fees and racing slower than buying parts to sit on a shelf while the car get's taken apart and can't be reassembled because there's no money. Racers get good with seat time - not by going low ETs. Everything you've asked about by virtue of that last sentence tells me this is just a pipe dream at this point. A baker needs a recipe and patience long before he needs an oven.
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racing is just a hobby for this car, there are only a few races a year close enough for me to enter, and tracks and time are scarce here. There is not enough racing going on to make money here. I am not after being a good bracket racer, its mostly street here until they give us more, better tracks. I just want a quick v8 classic car, I would of kept the coronet and stuck with my plan of hoping up the 225 if that was the route I wanted to go. Call me a bench racer if you must, until I move, which is not in the plan, there is only 1 track with a makeshift quarter mile thats usual being used for drift kids :wack:They hold an event every year called thunder in the valley on an old airstrip that I would like to take the car to and maybe take it to the mainland a few times but again its strictly hobby, you will never win enough to cover costs where I live, I'm on the rock.
 
OK - so it's not a race car then... So you're looking for recipes for quick street cars then. That makes more sense to me. Like you - the closest track for me is 2.5hrs one way from me so you have to trailer and allow a lot of time. It makes it hard to try and race a street night when the round trip gas and tolls plus gate fees cost you $175. You can get some really good power from either a 360 or 5.9L Magnum engine without spending as much as building a 4" stroke properly. In the Magnum's case, you can buy it and drop it in and drive it with stock parts it still makes 300hp. buy parts as you beat on it.
 
Speedfreak said:
Rodzilla said:
I've got Eagle in my 600hp junk and no complaints :D[/QUOTE

Forgive me for being to young but what is the with the junk references ? :newb:

What CI ?
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I was referring to my junkie Eagle crank, t'was a joke. It's forged and all good. I too heard some eagle cast cranks came apart, but I don't know the circumstances. Maybe they sprayed the crap out of it before already running close to max HP level suggested for the cast crank, which to save a few bucks would be silly.
Save your pennies and put together a stout forged bottom end wether stroked or not, then build it up from there. You can do a couple seasons with smaller hydraulic flat tappit cam and cheap heads, then as you save up build/buy better heads and run a cam that with make use of the better breathing heads. The stout bottom end could last through multiple incarnations of the same motor. Good luck and enjoy the addiction!
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