Stroker Combo Questions

[roccodart440]

I currently have a set of heads and intake being ported as well as a matching roller cam. I'm having second thoughts about using it on my engine and am considering building a stroker engine to use these heads on.

So the question is really 2 parts;

1. B or RB?

2. If 440 do you go 510, 512, 528 or 543?

3. If a 400 do you go 451, 470, or 512?

and why would also be helpful.

======================

Some info I found in my research.

Basically we want a Rod to Stroke ratio of 1.55:1 or higher to reduce side loading force on the thrust side of the piston to minimize friction. This becomes more critical above 5500rpm.

Next we want a piston with better than 1.250 compression height, the distance from wrist pin centerline to piston top. If this is the case the 500ci B is a bad idea

 

[bOb shingler]

my motor was a +.060" 440, 7.321" rods, pistons 1.310" and 4.250" stroke and filled up to the bottom water pump hole. that's the best I can recall the specs, may or may not to close.

 

[moper]

What chassis is this going in? What hood? What do the heads flow and how big (port volume) are they? What's the cam size? What is the goal? What is the budget?

 

[roccodart440]

What chassis is this going in? What hood? What do the heads flow and how big (port volume) are they? What's the cam size? What is the goal? What is the budget?

Chassis: 69 dart, mini tubbed, frame connected, cage, RMS alterK.

Hood: glass 6 pack

Heads: Performer RPM done by Jim Laroy. 340 something intake flow. Not sure about port volume.

Cam: Solid custom roller but the one we discussed was for my 440. Not sure how it would work in the stroker. It is 250 something at .050. 112ls .650ish lift.

Goal is to go fast. I hate putting a number on that because then you only shoot for that goal. I want the fastest true street car around. Initially the goal was to go from my current 11.70's into the 10's.

Budget: I don't know...? I already have the most expensive parts of the engine paid for. Heads, block, cam, intake, carb. So not much left.

 

[qkcuda]

My 500 B motor (400 block) uses a 4.15 crank and 6.76 (440 length) rods with chrysler big ends, for a rod stroke ratio of 1.63. The pistons however are very short, but also very light (500 grams or so). Not sure the comp height, but the oil ring is in the pin boss, and I have issues with piston slap. If I had it to do over I would have used a shorter (400 length) rod for more piston skirt. I needed to do very minor grinding for rod clearance at the bottom of the bores and on the oil pickup boss. If you use a chevy rod length and big end you may not need to clearance anything. I was stubborn, and wanted chrysler spec rods. The 440 gives you a lot more room to play with rod/piston combos.

 

[roccodart440]

My 500 B motor (400 block) uses a 4.15 crank and 6.76 (440 length) rods with chrysler big ends, for a rod stroke ratio of 1.63. the oil ring is in the pin boss, and I have issues with piston slap. If you use a chevy rod length and big end you may not need to clearance anything. I was stubborn, and wanted chrysler spec rods. .

I'm getting my kit from 440source if I do this so they use the BBC rod journal.

 

[nitrojunkee]

My last build was a 496" raised deck. Crank was a K1 4.150 stroke with 2.200" rod journals. The rods were 6.800", so the rod ratio was 1.654". The compression height on the pistons I ordered was 1.825".

I used the 440 block, because that's what I had. Seems like a lot of people say to go with a low deck when building a big inch stroker, because of the supposed block strength vs the raised deck... Whatever. Guys back in the 60's and 70's were making a ton of power with 440's and they didn't shatter like glass lol.

 

[Abodybomber]

my last build was a 496" raised deck. Crank was a k1 4.150 stroke with 2.200" rod journals. The rods were 6.800", so the rod ratio was 1.654". The compression height on the pistons i ordered was 1.825".

I used the 440 block, because that's what i had. Seems like a lot of people say to go with a low deck when building a big inch stroker, because of the supposed block strength vs the raised deck... Whatever. Guys back in the 60's and 70's were making a ton of power with 440's and they didn't shatter like glass lol.

iq52......

 

[Dart Sport 360]

We are chomping at the bit to install our new setup... I just sent the converter back to ATI today to be reworked then we will drop in it.

440 based 505. 30 over, 4.25 crank, 7.10 rod, 11.5:1 CR. We used the same cam and intake/heads from our old 440... 1100 pro systems dom, indy intake, 440-sr's with max wedge ports, .690 lift 287@50 comp solid roller...

Went with Eagle crank and rods with Wiseco pistons. We used our old steel main caps, no girdle, no block filling.

Hopefully get the converter by the end of the month and have it running in early February....

Good luck with yours.

 

[moper]

Chassis: 69 dart, mini tubbed, frame connected, cage, RMS alterK.

Hood: glass 6 pack

Heads: Performer RPM done by Jim Laroy. 340 something intake flow. Not sure about port volume.

Cam: Solid custom roller but the one we discussed was for my 440. Not sure how it would work in the stroker. It is 250 something at .050. 112ls .650ish lift.

Goal is to go fast. I hate putting a number on that because then you only shoot for that goal. I want the fastest true street car around. Initially the goal was to go from my current 11.70's into the 10's.

Budget: I don't know...? I already have the most expensive parts of the engine paid for. Heads, block, cam, intake, carb. So not much left.

Sorry - I thought you only had the top end and possibly the camshaft.
The port volumes to me are important. Bigger volume will be softer on a shorter stroke combo. That's not to say they'll suck - just that if you have the heads ready to go - you might as well match the displacement to them as closely as possible. Jim will have that number - or you can measure. IMO the stroke is the primary concern, the piston hieght is second. The ease of fitment is next. Rod ratio doesn't mean much at this point but once the stroke and heads are known that ratio will affect camshaft selection. I really liked the B wedge 496 deal I just built, but it might be a little much for the heads with that cam. Again I'm being general here - but something in the 470" range IMO would probably be a great street/strip package, and able to go to the high 500s on cheap pump swill with big torque and a flat torque curve. You could get more with a bigger camshaft but you need it to be comfortable idling for a while and not using huge spring pressures. You basically want a bracket package that isn't going to need yearly teardowns or refreshing - so I'd stay with a taller piston, shorter rod, milder compression, mild camshaft.

 

[roccodart440]

My builder recommended going with the 543 RB after talking to him yesterday. He also said to stay away from the 500 B. I can't see building a new engine that doesn't significantly out cube what I have, which is a strong reliable engine.

Dartsport, that a is HUGE cam!

 

[440outlawdart]

I ordered a 500 ci rotating kit for a 400 from ohio crank,so will see how it turns out

 

[Dart Sport 360]

My builder recommended going with the 543 RB after talking to him yesterday. He also said to stay away from the 500 B. I can't see building a new engine that doesn't significantly out cube what I have, which is a strong reliable engine.

Dartsport, that a is HUGE cam!

That cam went 10.80's in the 60 over 440 with the same top end with 12.5:1... Its a race only setup but would idle nice at 1800 rpm... 1 less compression point and 50 more cubes with a 1/2" more stroke.... I guess we'll see...

 

[roccodart440]

That cam went 10.80's in the 60 over 440 with the same top end with 12.5:1... Its a race only setup but would idle nice at 1800 rpm... 1 less compression point and 50 more cubes with a 1/2" more stroke.... I guess we'll see...

I'm going 11.70's with my 440 on street tires, pump swill, mufflers. It's got more in it. It idles real mild and can sit in traffic etc. If I want to go high 10's I'll do it on a light shot of NOS and maybe these new heads, no cam.

This stroker motor, if I do it needs to be a whole other level like low 10's on the engine, 9's on the bottle.

 

[Dart Sport 360]

Ya that's the plan... most of the time faster is better...

I'm hoping for low 10's now but I've been back and forth and read so many different things I really have no idea... sometimes I wonder if it will be faster then the 440.... lol. I don't want to go into the 9's because of the extra red tape... 10.30's would be awesome but not a goal... We are moving a bunch of weight (3800) and the truck its shaped like a brick so that never helps... traction issue may come up as well... so many unknowns...

All I know is spring is still way to far away... time will tell, fingers crossed...

 

[roccodart440]

Ya that's the plan... most of the time faster is better...

I'm hoping for low 10's now but I've been back and forth and read so many different things I really have no idea... sometimes I wonder if it will be faster then the 440.... lol. I don't want to go into the 9's because of the extra red tape... 10.30's would be awesome but not a goal... We are moving a bunch of weight (3800) and the truck its shaped like a brick so that never helps... traction issue may come up as well... so many unknowns...

All I know is spring is still way to far away... time will tell, fingers crossed...

I'm not saying I want to go 9's either but if it could... and then slow it to 10's. Now you are talking consistent. If they have drag week in the northeast this year (which has been speculated) I'm going to try to get into the daily driver class or super street NA BB class.