stroking my 340 to a 4--

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younggun86

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hello i have a 340 i was wondering where would be a ggod place to get a stroker kit from and if i can stroked it out more than 408 Thanks i jus wanna beat up on all of my buddies with gm or ford over here n atlanta,ga
 
Welome to FABO you'll like it here, Well I got mine from Indy cylinder heads, alot of the guys on here dont like them,(indy cylinder heads) guess I was lucky, I didn't have any trouble. if (I had to do it all over again I would get my stuff from a member on here ou812 Imm Engines he is a great guy and knows what he is doing he could get you everything you need) most here Like Scat products, I have all Eagle parts, guess it depends on how deep your pockets are, if your buddys have LS motors in thier GM's you will have to spend LOTS of cash to beat up on them as LS motors can be built for half of what a LA can be built for, JMO good luck. I still will NEVER own a GM. I do like some Phords though.
 
I went .040" over with an Eagle 4" forged crank for a total of 418"s. Scat I beam rods and Diamond forged pistons,with a set of Childs and Albert rings and Clevite coated rod bearings and full groove mains. I shopped around and bought everything from different suppliers.Save yourself a headache and get a kit from a supplier that the guys on this site will recommend to you.
 
younggun86 said:
hello i have a 340 i was wondering where would be a ggod place to get a stroker kit from and if i can stroked it out more than 408 Thanks i jus wanna beat up on all of my buddies with gm or ford over here n atlanta,ga
Click to expand...

How much power are we talking about?
 
Brian at IMM, ou812, can hook you up.

Its not real big money to stroke a small block mopar. But it can cost a lot to put some good heads and cam on top to really make it go.
 
best place for a stroker kit?? BPE will be hard to beat for what you end up getting.
 
IIRC,
A 340 bored 0.030" over with a stroker kit (4" crank) comes out to 416 cubic inches. A 360 bored with a 4" crank yields 408 cubic inches of displacement.

As for the vendors, I'm not sure who I would go with. Based on your goal, I would definitely seek a forged crank. Sounds like you will be romping on it lol.
Good luck.

-Mike
 
unless your an experienced builder you might want to bite the bullet and get Brian to build you whatever power you want , his prices are very reasonable and a complete carb to pan ,dyno tested and broken in motor is a lot easier to deal with than building it yourself and not knowing what you've got or how it's going to perform for you , remember this , guys will tell you how easy it is and how much you'll save doing it yourself but it's not their time and cash ,one mistake and the savings is gone and you may be watching your buddies drive away while you try to fix a busted motor . I bought a 410 that makes enough power to drive away calmly from anybody who has pulled up beside me and started acting the fool , google IMM engines and give him a call before you start spending ,either way he'll be the guy you want to buy you're heads from .
 
younggun86 said:
hello i have a 340 i was wondering where would be a ggod place to get a stroker kit from and if i can stroked it out more than 408 Thanks i jus wanna beat up on all of my buddies with gm or ford over here n atlanta,ga
Click to expand...

There have been some good suggestions as to where to buy parts. I'd like to ad that the engine is only 1 little part to the equation. You can build a 600 HP monster but if you stick it in a 74 Duster (or any similar vehicle) leaving all other parts of the drivetrain and suspension stock you won't outrun much. Figure in your budget the trans. and suspension/tire mods needed.

BTW: here is the run down on the cubic inches gained with a 4" crank

Stock bore 340 with a 4" crank = 410 cubes
.030 over bore " " " " = 416
.040 " " " " " " = 418

Then if you have the money you can go with a 4.125" crank to gain approx. another 12 cubic inches.
 
fishy68 said:
There have been some good suggestions as to where to buy parts. I'd like to ad that the engine is only 1 little part to the equation. You can build a 600 HP monster but if you stick it in a 74 Duster (or any similar vehicle) leaving all other parts of the drivetrain and suspension stock you won't outrun much. Figure in your budget the trans. and suspension/tire mods needed.

BTW: here is the run down on the cubic inches gained with a 4" crank

Stock bore 340 with a 4" crank = 410 cubes
.030 over bore " " " " = 416
.040 " " " " " " = 418

Then if you have the money you can go with a 4.125" crank to gain approx. another 12 cubic inches.
Click to expand...

exactly... figure

1000-1300 on trans depending on the converter cost

another grand for a rear that will hold it, either cut a B Body 8.75 and build it up with new axles and the like

front discs will be 700

driveshaft 200

rear rims and tires 500 if you run cheap steels
 
You should build the rest of the drivetrain first, and build it to handle more power than you ever plan on throwing at it. Shop around. I found a stout 904 race transmission (manual shift, RVB) for $400 from a guy who started a project he changed directions on. I paid $200 or $250 for the Turbo Action 3500 converter from a guy who needed a higher stall...I think $200 for the drive shaft, and $2300 for a fresh Dana drum to drum shortened to A-body length with the mounts moved in for a spring relocation. Found some nice Centerline Warriors with tires for $600 (changed the rear tires out for M/T Drag Radials). All that was done before my engine. My car already had disc front brakes, so that wasn't an expense for me. It's all held up for about 75 1/8 mile passes and lifts the front 4-6".

Once that's all done, either get a kit for the engine, or have Brian at IMM do it. It really sucks to put a bunch of time and money into an engine and then have something go wrong during or after break-in. If you get it done by Brian (or another reputable builder), and broke in and tuned on the dyno, it's pretty much just a drop in and go deal...well worth it.
 
I think Ohio crank has (had, just checked, maybe custom..Hughes has 'em) a 426 small block stroker crank, like a 4.25?? thats alot of cubes for a small block. Get some good heads or plan on a stump puller.
 
FWIW. You shouldn't have any problem with your Ford and GM buddies with a stock stroke 340 built to 68/71 specs. If you have a 72 or 73 340 they aren't much more than a 318 but can be brought right back to life with some pistons and a mild cam.
 
Listen to the above. I back-havled (lol, this is 1987) first. Shortened Dana, 4 link, tubs. Then picked up a 727 man rmb, and a 3500, with only 13 runs on it. Then custom drive shaft. Then finish the cage (that stops body flex). Then discs on front. Cell, 6 an fuel line, etc. Batt in trunk, firewall, ammeter bypassed, mallory 7al, etc.

Now ready to replace the 340 with a 408.

Start at the rear, if you can't get the HP to the ground, you can't win. I think that is a quote from Don Garlits.
 
412 Stroker said:
Welome to FABO you'll like it here, Well I got mine from Indy cylinder heads, alot of the guys on here dont like them,(indy cylinder heads) guess I was lucky, I didn't have any trouble. if (I had to do it all over again I would get my stuff from a member on here ou812 Imm Engines he is a great guy and knows what he is doing he could get you everything you need) most here Like Scat products, I have all Eagle parts, guess it depends on how deep your pockets are, if your buddys have LS motors in thier GM's you will have to spend LOTS of cash to beat up on them as LS motors can be built for half of what a LA can be built for, JMO good luck. I still will NEVER own a GM. I do like some Phords though.
Click to expand...

X2!!!!!!!!! I have not used his services,but speaking for Fabo member services in general I have had very good luck using those whose customers are us. Thier reputations mean quite a lot to them,and customer satisfaction is thier goal.
 
Work on the chassis first.If on a budget,do some 002/003 leaf springs and a adjustable snubber.This works great with slicks.If you got some more coin,check out Caltracs,or slid a lincs.With a stock style spring.Shocks?For the 002,003 springs,70 Imperial cheapo gas shocks.Caltracs,adjustable Rancho 9000 series shocks to match.Works stunning with drag radials,GOOD LUCK!
 
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