Strut between lower control arm and "K" frame?

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coalman

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Are the bushings a problem to change out? Thanks
 
Nope.. easy right after you pull your torsion bars, unbolt your lower ball joint and remove your lower control arm from the K frame.. :eek:
 
One piece OEM style bushings can be done by just taking the nut off.


Alan
 
New one on me, but I've mainly played with B bodies for 45 years, what is this one piece bushing you speak of?
beerestoration2015-2016 1745.JPG
 
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Here is one on eBay...
1960 - 1970 Dart Lancer Barracuda Valiant strut rod bushing Moog K355 | eBay

Last time I did one I put some lube on the frame, put bushing in the best I could, washer, nut (didn't force it, just till it was on) drove around the block, could dips, couple speed bumps, couple stop and goes. Got back it was seated, ran nut down and new cotter pin. You might be able to run the nut down with an impact.


Alan
 
Neat, new one on me! What are the chances he currently has a one piece though?
 
Thanks to all, great picture, that be it? I will shop around for the bushings. I can see why you would have to take it apart.
 
Thanks to all, great picture, that be it? I will shop around for the bushings. I can see why you would have to take it apart.

I haven`t got into that yet, but it looks like a guy could modify that situation with some thot-------jmo
 

Even this old man can do this stuff. Yeh, it's work. You need either a tool to pull balky T bars, or "rig" one or two 2x4's etc and crowbar. Once you have the LCA hardware loose, and the T bar retainer clips removed, you can pry the pivot area of the LCA to the rear and force the T bar out the rear. Usually you can wiggle it some and it will then come out of the LCA socket.

I would darn certain check other bushings at the same time, the LCA bushing, the lower joints, and tie rod ends. Whatever it is that you will pull apart, you don't need to do it "twice."
 
Even this old man can do this stuff. Yeh, it's work. You need either a tool to pull balky T bars, or "rig" one or two 2x4's etc and crowbar. Once you have the LCA hardware loose, and the T bar retainer clips removed, you can pry the pivot area of the LCA to the rear and force the T bar out the rear. Usually you can wiggle it some and it will then come out of the LCA socket.

I would darn certain check other bushings at the same time, the LCA bushing, the lower joints, and tie rod ends. Whatever it is that you will pull apart, you don't need to do it "twice."
Thanks
 
Don't let all the tear it down comments cloud this repair, it is a 30 minute fix period! Get the one piece bushing and install it.


Alan
 
what car? different years used the different bushing styles and not all strut rods are created equal. make sure your not mixing 72' and earlier parts w/ 73' up parts. it will move the lower control arm out of position. also the urethane bushings have issues too.
 
I ordered these, look ok to you guys? Thanks

View attachment 1715641015
Looks correct. Hopefully, you have the stock hardware still on the strut rod to go with them. The aftermarket 2 piece bushings have the hardware installed differently. Stock, the concave side of the washers go against the bushing. The aftermarket 2 piece setup has the concave side away from the bushings.
 
Looks correct. Hopefully, you have the stock hardware still on the strut rod to go with them. The aftermarket 2 piece bushings have the hardware installed differently. Stock, the concave side of the washers go against the bushing. The aftermarket 2 piece setup has the concave side away from the bushings.

Looks stock to me. Thanks
 
Well I started on the bushing removals, any past experience recommendations on this would be appreciated. Isn't going to be 30 minutes for sure. Thanks
 
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