Strut rod bushings?

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Ok, much searching has not resulted in a measurement for the lower control arm hight. Does anyone have this number and where to measure from?

Thanks
 
Everybody has their own preference as to how they want their car to sit.
Mine had a lot of 'rake' to it when I bought it.

After a complete front end rebuild, I cranked the front up a bit so it only has a little amount of rake. But I like the way it sits now. Had the alignment done based on that ride height.

Also, with stock UCA bushings, the more nose down you have, the less caster you can achieve.

In your case, using the offset bushings permits more nose down, if that is want you want.
 
NiceFishEh said:
Everybody has their own preference as to how they want their car to sit.
Mine had a lot of 'rake' to it when I bought it.

After a complete front end rebuild, I cranked the front up a bit so it only has a little amount of rake. But I like the way it sits now. Had the alignment done based on that ride height.

Also, with stock UCA bushings, the more nose down you have, the less caster you can achieve.

In your case, using the offset bushings permits more nose down, if that is want you want.
Click to expand...

I'd like to keep the front end as low as possible. What would be the minimum clearance between the bump stops on the lower control arm?
 
according to the '69 Service manual you measure "from the lowest point of adjuster blade to the floor" and "from lowest point of steering knuckle arm" and the " difference between the two is the front suspension height"
make sure you have a full tank of fuel and simulate typical passenger load.
Jounce car before the measurements.

(soory , no Dart manual on hand)
Height for a Barracuda is ... 1 3/8 +/- 1/8"

for valiant it is 2 1/8 +/- 1/8"

Why do I have a '69 plymouth service manual at work ????
 
Don't forget to remove the little wire retainer clips from the back torsion bar mount before trying to remove the bars. And make sure ALL the tension is off the torsion bars before attempting to remove them. Good luck.
 
i measure at the center line of the wheel on both sides, from the floor to the inside of the wheel opening. jack the bolts in untill i get the ride height i'm looking for. i also shake the front end up and down, and side to side, to make it settle out before i measure. just get it off the bump stops on the LCA.
 
that was no fun at all. I've torqued up the lower control arms enough so the arms are about an inch off the bump stops. I hope that is enough because I don't want to swap out the rear springs for super stock springs to get my stance back.

Thanks for all the help
 
The Just Suspension strut rod bushings work fine. Contrary to some posts the thickness of their bushings are the same as the Mopar stock ones. The only problem one may find is if one modifies the front strut bushing mount by welding in a 3/32 thick steel washer to strengthen that area to handle increased cornering loads. This is why I had thicker and longer strut rods made. The measurement between the two support washers are the same as stock, but on the front the hole for the retainer roll pin has to be moved forward at least the thickness of the washers one has welded in. This is the reason for the longer rod.
The best way to make sure the new bushings are ok to use id to measure them against the stock rubber ones, and if modification to make them fit id needed, as lathe or drill press with a sharp new coarse file will take care of any adjustments.
 
I put these dynamic strut bars on both my darts. The alignment guy loved them. No more bushings to wear out and easy adjustments.

http://www.capautoproducts.com/strut_arms.php?pageid=26&osCsid=02d88knasaeto3736ngb2i8dq4

Also adjust the tension on the torsion bars with the tires off the ground. Much easier to adjust. I always move my car in and out of the driveway after adjusting and then measure. That way the suspension has settled back down. You get a better measurement.
 
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