Hello guys. I just bought a 1970 440 with plans of rebuilding and installing it in my 71 demon. The 440 is stuck. I have taken the heads off, removed the valley pan and lifters/push rods and have been lubricating everything w wd40. I have been using a large breaker bar and have not been able to get the engine to budge. Does anyone have any other ideas on how to get it loose? Also how bad can the cylinder walls be rusted and the engine still be rebuildable?? Thanks in advance for any help.
Stuck 440, Need Help !!!
- Thread starter demonman
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ibleedmoparts
Well-Known Member
i had a problem with a 57' 315...i used trans fluid and let it sit 2 days...lubed it every 12 hrs
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
I've used some stuff called PB Blaster. Comes in a spray can. Works a lot better than WD 40 for breaking free rusted parts.
66dartgt
Well-Known Member
I helped a couple friends rip apart two very nasty 440's that had a ton of rust in some of the bores, a real pain. We used the PB blaster as mentioned above and soaked the crap out the bores, make sure to wet the wrist pins as well. Have you pulled the bearing caps off to see what they look like ?
Once you are ready, remove the pistons that are close to TDC, or at least those you can get the rod nuts off of. Use a stout piece of oak about 1x1 or 1x2 - foot or two long and beat the pistons out one at a time by pounding on the wrist pin areas of the underside of the pistons. As you remove the pistons the crank should begin to be able to move a little, affording you some - if minimal wiggle room to get at the other rod nuts.
We used a file to scrape off the rust from the really nasty cylinders. If the wood gives up the ghost, then use a 3/4 " 2 foot long piece of steel water or gas pipe and a bigger hammer. Keep in mind you want to salvage the block and the crank. The rods can be replaced or reconditioned if you dont end up resorting to the pipe vs the wood method. The pipe will likely mess the rods up while beating on the pistons.
The block can be sleeved if the rust pits are too deep to allow clean up thru normal boring operations.
Have fun pounding !
Once you are ready, remove the pistons that are close to TDC, or at least those you can get the rod nuts off of. Use a stout piece of oak about 1x1 or 1x2 - foot or two long and beat the pistons out one at a time by pounding on the wrist pin areas of the underside of the pistons. As you remove the pistons the crank should begin to be able to move a little, affording you some - if minimal wiggle room to get at the other rod nuts.
We used a file to scrape off the rust from the really nasty cylinders. If the wood gives up the ghost, then use a 3/4 " 2 foot long piece of steel water or gas pipe and a bigger hammer. Keep in mind you want to salvage the block and the crank. The rods can be replaced or reconditioned if you dont end up resorting to the pipe vs the wood method. The pipe will likely mess the rods up while beating on the pistons.
The block can be sleeved if the rust pits are too deep to allow clean up thru normal boring operations.
Have fun pounding !
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
I had this problem on my old 383, I used a lubricant called rust buster, and sprayed it around the pistons on both sides of the piston. Soaked it on top and shot it around the piston from inside the block. After a week of spraying I was able to knock have of them out, and then I could finally turn the crank to get the others out. A 30 over bore was required to clean it up after that.
moper
Well-Known Member
Almost any cylinder can be fixed. The question becomes is it worth the expense. I've had a car drag the rear tires with a 440, hemi box, and Dana 60. We dragged it back and forth, dropping the clutch trying to get it free. Know what was stuck? The oil pump drive to the bushing in the block. I buy stuck engines as cores lot. The prices are always right...lol. Some tricks...use a steel deal blow hammer and rap the tops of the pistons (that you can reach) on thier north and south points. Pistons normally rock in the bores in that direction, and this will free up rings that rust to the bores, and will help loosen up the pins that corrode onto the piston pin bore. Then spin over the engine stand, and unbolt any rods you can reach. You are rebuilding it. So things like rod bolts will be replaced, and pistons will be replaced. Do not hit the rods if you plan to re-use them. I use an old strut rod placed either on the bottom side of the piston's dome, or on the flat on the bottom of the pin bore on the piston and hammer them out. When you're done, have the block airless shotted after degreasing, and you'll see how bad the bores are in terms of rust pits. Then you can tell how much using that block will cost.
I broke a small block bow-tie motor loose,a few years back,with iodine. Available in farm stores in quart bottles. Poured it in the holes,and let it set for a couple days. Loosened all the main,and the rod bolts I could get to. Popped loose pretty easy. Learned this from an old time mechanic.
1966 dart wagon
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE='64 Cuda]I've used some stuff called PB Blaster. Comes in a spray can. Works a lot better than WD 40 for breaking free rusted parts.[/QUOTE]
use trans fluid, and that stuff does work good :thumbup:
use trans fluid, and that stuff does work good :thumbup:
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
Get a tub or barrel big enough to put the short block in and submerge it with a mixture of powdered molasses and water. Let it soak for about 1 to 2 weeks and you would be surprized on how well this stuff will take off corrosion. Works almost as good as a hot tank. You can find powdered molasses at a feed store. The mixture of 5 parts water to 1 part molasses works well.
Chuck
Chuck
On the 440 block that I had that was frozen ( due to rust ), i took a 4" wire wheel on the end of the drill and stuck it down in the hole and removed as much of the loose rust that I could, and oiled it up and worked it back and forth with a
breaker bar until I could fully rotate the assembly, this block didnt have any severe rusting or pitting, it had probably sat outdoors with the heads removed for 2 or 3 months, still needed to bore it to .060 though to clean it up.
breaker bar until I could fully rotate the assembly, this block didnt have any severe rusting or pitting, it had probably sat outdoors with the heads removed for 2 or 3 months, still needed to bore it to .060 though to clean it up.
Gearjammer
Member
PB Blaster.It'll do the job.
Cerwin
Well-Known Member
doesnt any one else agree that brake fluid will soak into anything with its finer molecules... its works miracles for me in the past
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