Stuck lifter, can replace just one???

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MObarracuda

MObarracuda

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I have a 1973 stock 318 in my 1967 Barracuda that I purchased to replace the worn out 273. I never heard the engine run but for $400 it was worth it to me to give it a go.

The engine is running except the #6 cylinder hydraulic lifter sticks and creates a clattering valve train noise.

My question is can I replace just the one troublesome lifter and follow a typical break in procedure or do I need to replace the cam and all of the lifters? What is permissible or best practice.

I don't know cam shaft selections.....If Best practices to replace the camshaft and lifters at the same time what can you tell me about the compatibility of these three products from Summit listed below. The engine has stock 340 exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust with H pipe, 8 3/4 with 3.23 gears, and a 904 transmission with stock tourqe converter, 318 street master intake (yuk, but makes 20 inches of vacuum) with original power brakes that need alot of vacuum to work and stock cylinder heads. It can have a little rumble but I need 18+ of vacuum. I selected these cams mainly due to price. The 340 block is at the shop and I will run this motor until the fall and then sell it off when the 340 goes in. What cam would you put in if you have to go all new?

hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/272, Lift .454/.454, Chrysler, Small Block
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k50052

Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 278/288, Lift .421/.444, Chrysler, Small Block
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6900

Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441, Chrysler, Small Block
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6901
 
Take the lifter out and take it apart, if it is stuck down some times I soak them in wd40 over night and take a old push rod a tap it with a hammer on top of the lifter and it will break loose or tap the top of the lifter body with a hammer and the plunger will pop up, then take it apart and clean it out and it will work fine. Putting new lifters on a old cam is asking for trouble.
 
You can also soak them in trans fluid to help unstick. Do like Brian6 stated and actuate the plunger, I try to do it while it is partialy submereged to pump out any contaminants.
Ive replaced lifters one at a time with no ill effects. This obviously isnt a hi $$$ drag motor that will be turning 6500 rpm so I say go for it. Look at the cam lobe and make sure its not wiped also double check the pushrod to make sure its not bent.
JMHO, good luck!
 
Yes you can replace just one.... Hell I've replaced a bad one with a used one... I know that's blasphemy but it worked.
 
Take it and turn it upside down and slam the cup side on the table/ block of wood
 
New lifters on old cam is OK.

New cam and old lifters is a 100% disaster.

With the erratic quality in the new lifters' check valves, i do indeed think I would try the above solutions to fix the old one. It all depends on if things are just stuck or if the check valve/ball/disc/spring have gone bad.
 
You can replace one. Remove and inspect the bottom of the lifter yo make sure it is not concave. If it is then replace cam and all lifters. if it is slightly convex you can replace the lifter. Also I would put a little high zink content break in lube with both a new lifter or new cam. Modern oils are not great for flat tappet cams
 
Boy... :wtf: - of course you CAN do just one - but you're already in there, intake is off, valve train (at least on one side) is out - get yourself a little piece of mind and replace them all.
 
ScampMike said:
Boy... :wtf: - of course you CAN do just one - but you're already in there, intake is off, valve train (at least on one side) is out - get yourself a little piece of mind and replace them all.
Click to expand...
To me, it makes a lot of sense to replace just one (or unstick the original). In fact I did it a few years ago on a 318. Think about it this way: If you replace only one, you only have to get that one lifter and lobe to break in. Replace them all and you have 16 possible points of failure if something goes wrong. That one lifter is probably just sticky from sitting and there is no reason to suspect that , with regular driving , any of the others will become noisy. Plus, a new lifter is only three dollars. If I was going to spend the money for all new lifters, I would be changing the cam too. Whatever the choice, the factory timing chain should be replaced. The plastic teeth coating has been the death of many an engine.
 
$10 fix vs $90 unnecessary fix on a $400 motor. That's all I'm saying, save the money and invest in the one your building.
 
correct me if i'm wrong(have done this to more them mopar lifters) but the disk inside seats in the center on the the top side and along the outer ring on the other side. so by installing the disk upside down, you have two new fresh areas for the lifter to seat on now. Rebuilding the lifter with only YOUR time as cost.:)
 
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