More of a rant than a question. I'm currently on my 3rd voltage regulator. The one that came in my car when I bought it appeared to be the same I got from Napa. It was DOA. Exchanged it for another and that solved my problem last summer. Now my car reads at 14.5-16v. Some quick testing revealed the regulator is shot again. That's what I get for trying to save a few bucks and get a cheap one that says china stamped on the back. But in all fairness, it's what they had in stock. I've now spent twice the money and ordered a Mopar one. Hopefully have it in a week.
Stupid chinese parts
- Thread starter phaelax
- Start date
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Yeah, we're all part of the blame. Not just on auto parts, but most of what we use in life. We (as Americans) spend so much time "price checking" instead of "quality checking". We should compare pricing on the same quality of part. One auto parts store wants 11.00 for a bearing, and the next store wants 24.00. Most Americans, run to save a buck and pay 11.00. So, to be competitive and stay in business, stores chase the cheapest product to offer the consumer.
That's why discount stores like Walmart and the such win and Montgomery Wards closes (so to speak). think of the toasters, irons, vacuum cleaners, how they use to last years and years. Now, if you get a couple of years out of 'em, throw 'em away and go spend another 11.49 on a new one. If we would have checked quality first, we'd be the manufacturing giant of the world.
That's why discount stores like Walmart and the such win and Montgomery Wards closes (so to speak). think of the toasters, irons, vacuum cleaners, how they use to last years and years. Now, if you get a couple of years out of 'em, throw 'em away and go spend another 11.49 on a new one. If we would have checked quality first, we'd be the manufacturing giant of the world.
Yote
Well-Known Member
The way it is anymore good luck on that not being Chinese also.
Yote
Yote
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"Somewhat high" charging voltage is almost never a bad regulator. It's usually voltage drop in the harness or ground circuit.
"Very high" that is out of control voltage which goes up with RPM to over 16 could be a failed regulator.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I agree. Sometimes it not the assumed cheap part when it comes to electrical woes. If you have bad wiring and or poor grounds, the charging system will suffer and eventually fail.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
If the battery reads high, and the blue wire (IGN1) at regulator to case, reads about 13.8V, the regulator is good, but the wiring has voltage drops.
I bet the Mopar one is stamped China too.
I agree, we're all part of the blame but the difference in pricing is perhaps cheap labour in china making the same thing in big volume, not necessarily difference in quality but of course, it could be...
In the end It's your choice what to buy, and if you buy the cheapest part and expected it's top quality you can be disappointed, or be satisfied if it is, that's up to you.
They weren't the last time I bought one. That's been a year or two though. The last one I bought was still made in the US.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Then I would assume it is NOT the regulator and do some testing.
For starters, what year model is the car, or more important what are you using for an alternator / regulator?
You need to test for harness voltage drop in one of two ways, and test the ground circuit
1A....One way is with key in "run" engine off. Get a test point "as close as you can" to the VR IGN terminal. Leave everything connected. Measure voltage between VR "ign" terminal and the battery POS post. You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better, and over about .3V (3/10 of one volt) you need to think about improving it
1B...Another way to do the above is running at a fast idle. With system charging, warm, and battery "normalized" first confirm that it is running high at the battery. Then measure between VR ign terminal and battery NEG. A reading of about 14 here shows the VR is doing it's job
2....Test the ground circuit. The VR MUST be grounded to the battery negative. To test this, get the engine running, warm, battery normal, and at an RPM to simulate low / medium cruise. Test first with all accessories off, and again with lights, heater, etc operating.
Stab one probe into the battery NEG post, and the remaining probe into the metal mounting flange of the VR. You are hoping for almost zero, which would be perfect. ANY drop here adds to charging voltage.
One way around the problem is to install a Bosch style relay, triggered by the blue "run" wire, and use that relay, fused and fed off the starter relay, to power the VR and ignition system. This takes the load off the ignition switch and connector terminals.
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Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
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famous bob
mopar misfit
Remember when Japanese stuff was thot of the same way ? Hopefully they'll get better . Some stuff is actually good, gotta be careful on decisions.
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