Stupid Drywall Question

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RustyRatRod

RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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So I'm doin some work on the house. I hate sheetrock and drywall, but that's where I'm at. Removing all the batten so the inside won't look so trailerish. So I'm in the rear bathroom and Have gotten a couple of the flat joints done pretty good. Actually dang good for me. lol I'm in the corner behind the door. It's such a tight corner, my corner joint compound spreader wouldn't fit, so I ......you guessed it, smoothed it on with my hand and fingers. I put fiber reinforced sheetrock tape over the corner first and then joint compound. So is there a sanding tool that'll fit the corner or am I just stuck with a sanding brick?

..and yeah, I've looked online and didn't really seen anything that I thought would work.
 
My brother in law was a drywall taper and I remember him talking about corner tools for drywall work. I don't know if a local hardware store would have it but I'm sure that a drywall supplier probably would
 
You can use a slightly damp sponge to help smooth it. Then use a small hand held sanding block that has a few different angles on it. I don't mind the boarding and taping. Mudding/sanding sucks. I'll put on 5 gallons of mud, to end up with 4 gallons of dust on floor lol.
Good luck.
 
There is a trick for doing drywall corners with a flat blade putty knife.

Put your fiberglass tape on, then apply the setting type mud one side at a time.

Do one side, let it harden up overnight. Then you do the other side the next day so it doesn't dig into the first pass.

If the mud you put on is still soft you can dig it out and try again.

Much easier to put on the mud as smooth as possible, that equals much less sanding at the end.

Usually 2 coats of mud in the corners. 3 coats out on the open butt joint seams.

9-corner-700x700-2084210327.jpg


Good Luck
 
Car Nut said:
Out of curiosity, did you use blue board drywall in the bathroom?

View attachment 1716271924
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I am simply removing the batten. The drywall that is there is remaining. And yall, the joint compound is already SET and DRY. That's why I'm asking about sanding it. Thanks for the tips. I guess it's going to have to be the sanding blocks.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I am simply removing the batten. The drywall that is there is remaining. And yall, the joint compound is already SET and DRY. That's why I'm asking about sanding it. Thanks for the tips. I guess it's going to have to be the sanding blocks.
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Post some pictures when you get it done, I have to redo my bathroom soon.
 
Car Nut said:
Post some pictures when you get it done, I have to redo my bathroom soon.
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I'll think about. I'm surprised someone hasn't made a crack about us living in a mobile home yet.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'll think about. I'm surprised someone hasn't made a crack about us living in a mobile home yet.
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home is where you make it, bro. no shame in the game.

i lived in my shop for about two years while i built out/reno'd my house. rigged up a garden hose shower and cooked on propane/charcoal grill or white gas camping stove for a good part of it. i don't know if Dr. The Mrs. would go for that nowadays, but it was a high time back then.

oh, sorry i didn't answer the question. yeah, they make corner tools, but i always found working with them in tight spaces such as behind the doors to be cumbersome so i just use a sponge block with the face angles.
 
Dan the man said:
They used the green board in our bathrooms, our house was built in 2007. I've never heard of blue board, is it new?
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Traditional green drywall (also known as greenboard) is only moisture-resistant. BLUE/PURPLE drywall, manufactured only by Gold Bond Building Products, is superior because it offers moisture, mold and mildew resistance.
 
oldkimmer said:
That’s cause we all know that you guys are not trailer park trash. lol. I assumed that u guys lived in a house as your on a farm or acreage are u not?
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It would be a small farm, but yeah I could make it one. We're on a tic over 6.5 acres.
 
Car Nut said:
Traditional green drywall (also known as greenboard) is only moisture-resistant. BLUE/PURPLE drywall, manufactured only by Gold Bond Building Products, is superior because it offers moisture, mold and mildew resistance.
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Thanks for the information. I'm going to write it down
 
I use sanding sponges but the trick I learned was to use a set of scissors to cut the corner off the 90. It's too sharp and will dig out the corner and cut the tape.
Cut it evenly to leave 1/8 or 1/4" wide gap between the paper sides. Later you can come back with some paper wrapped around a small dowel or just loop it and lightly sand the inside corner to make it straight.
Also, I would just sand off the high spots and add more mud to feather out the joint one side at a time. Trying to sand out compound like it's bondo will drive you nuts. I've found it less aggravating to add more than to have to take a bunch off. Ymmv.
If you finish out one side at a time you can get good tight corners. If your first side is decently flat and straight, you can drag your knife lightly along it when compounding the adjacent wall. Once that's done and dry, a final skim down the sharp corner with your finger to make an even radius can make it look pro.
For a super narrow area, you can use pretty much anything as a knife. I've even just ripped down paint mixing sticks before.
Depending on the compound it can be tough to recoat without the base softening and making life hell. One thing I've done when this happens is to use some PVA primer to somewhat seal what's there before skimming some more on. I also PVA everything before final paint. It really helps keep the compound from soaking up all your paint like a sponge.
 
Phreakish said:
I use sanding sponges but the trick I learned was to use a set of scissors to cut the corner off the 90. It's too sharp and will dig out the corner and cut the tape.
Cut it evenly to leave 1/8 or 1/4" wide gap between the paper sides. Later you can come back with some paper wrapped around a small dowel or just loop it and lightly sand the inside corner to make it straight.
Also, I would just sand off the high spots and add more mud to feather out the joint one side at a time. Trying to sand out compound like it's bondo will drive you nuts. I've found it less aggravating to add more than to have to take a bunch off. Ymmv.
If you finish out one side at a time you can get good tight corners. If your first side is decently flat and straight, you can drag your knife lightly along it when compounding the adjacent wall. Once that's done and dry, a final skim down the sharp corner with your finger to make an even radius can make it look pro.
For a super narrow area, you can use pretty much anything as a knife. I've even just ripped down paint mixing sticks before.
Depending on the compound it can be tough to recoat without the base softening and making life hell. One thing I've done when this happens is to use some PVA primer to somewhat seal what's there before skimming some more on. I also PVA everything before final paint. It really helps keep the compound from soaking up all your paint like a sponge.
Click to expand...
Thanks man, that helps a lot!
 
4spdragtop said:
Here's a sanding block, has small angled sides. They work great for tight areasView attachment 1716271930
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I like that style. Looks like they left the abrasive off the corner too. I've never seen one like that in the stores I frequent. Most have one square edge and one 45 edge but has abrasive all over which is why I nip one of the edges off the 90.
I'll have to keep an eye out for one like you show.
 
When someone looked at my finish carpentry work, I just spoke up quickly and called it rustic!

Remember, tornado season and mobile homes.......not sure how God feels about them. First to blow away!

Roughing it? Every time I would sell a place, I always replaced it with BARE land.... first thing to get was a well and power, then build the horse barn, (we slept in a stall and showered in the barn too), toilet was a 5 gal bucket with some water and a toilet seat sitting on top! Then build the home after "hours". :BangHead:
 
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