stus demon 440

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kmkstu

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Ok guys and any gals here... I came across a 72 /6 demon with a 727 trans in a barn and got it for $20. Yes twenty bucks. It has a little rear quarter rust behind the tires but all else is fine. I am getting a 440 and trans for a big block to jam on it. Now before any head cutting I'm a import tuner guy 450hp in a 2000lbs car moves lol. But my friends all have mustangs and Camaros with 100 shots and I figure a 440 with a lot of cam and maybe a few lbs of boost might change some religions hehe.
 
Just finished mine up look at my pics for ideas, a lot of guys here have done it. You just need to make sure the frame has frame connectors and at least a 8 1/4 rear.
 
Welcome to the site.

Make sure to start a member restoration thread so others can see your progress; or in my case, lack of.
 
Yup 20 buck has soon has I can figure out how to post pics ill get them up. The rear end is 8 3/4 which I think is a Dana. And what would the frame connectors do first v8 car I've ever built
 
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=3540

This link should help you post pics.

8 3/4 is not the same as a Dana; a Dana 60 is a 9 3/4. Dana 60s have a removable rear cover for replacement of the differential from the rear of the housing. An 8 3/4 is a hotchkiss design where the differential is attached to the front of the axle housing. There are numerous posts on this site with pictures of each to help you identify what you have. Maybe you meant with a Dana style Powerlock.

Frame connectors will help to prevent body twist. They run from the rear frame rails to the front crossmember.

If you check out the link below to my build you will see an example frame connectors and a Dana 60.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I put a 440 in my Duster and love it, no regrets. Frame connectors are a very good idea, especially if you run sticky tires and get it to hook up. If you just drive on the street with hard tires and it spins and never books the connectors are not really necessary. I have a bunch of pictures of my custom frame connector install on mine. Go to the left side of this post and click on my photo link and check it out. Bolt in connectors do almost nothing but look cool. If you do go with bolt in, weld them in and the more places they're welded the better. Good luck and have fun.
 
I just noticed the photo link is gone. Go to my page on here and you should be able to get to my photos.
 
The Schumacher/6 to 440 mounts are a great way to do it also. I have their headers also and love them. You will need a new rad also, there are many threads on them also. I run the summit 2 1/2 exhaust and for the price it is great. One other ting that comes to mind is a shorted vale cover to clear under the blower motor or mod it to fit high covers. I believe in the tech section there is a how to mod. If you get into trouble just ask, some one here will have an answer.
 
Here's photo of the valve cover/blower motor interference issue. I had chrome covers on it that were close but cleared. Stock covers should clear also. I went with tall cast aluminum for better sealing after I kept having leaks with the stamped steel covers. You can see I notched and welded the aluminum cover to clear. A lot of people simply remove the blower motor and cover the hole. That sort of thing I avoid unless its a race car. Once you start removing and gutting things the resale value drops and heat and defrost are nice things to have.
 

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Ok dusterfy I see what you mean there but I've already cut that out lol. 660 feet dont need heat or ac. My biggest concern is the PS cause I dont think with a big block I will have clearance for headers cause its gonna be a street able drag car. Everyone down here tells me to put a Chevy in and it would be cheaper but I dont care about that much cheaper I'd rather have the biggest engine Chrysler made and send them home on foot.
 
kmkstu said:
Ok dusterfy I see what you mean there but I've already cut that out lol. 660 feet dont need heat or ac. My biggest concern is the PS cause I dont think with a big block I will have clearance for headers cause its gonna be a street able drag car. Everyone down here tells me to put a Chevy in and it would be cheaper but I dont care about that much cheaper I'd rather have the biggest engine Chrysler made and send them home on foot.
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OK, onto the headers. I have power steering on mine. If you want to keep you're power steering without going to an aftermarket front K frame and suspension you can't do it with common full length under chassis headers like TTI or Headmans, they will not clear the power steering box. You can use Schumacher Try-Ys which fit great but are very small so they typically cost about 30 hp at the 500 hp level, less on milder engines, or you can use Hooker or Headman fenderwell headers but those need big holes in the inner fenders and the collectors are in the fenderwells so if you want an under car exhaust they're difficult with that and also you have to run short tires so they'll clear the monsters in the wheelwells. The third option is to use Bob Mazzolini Propart headers which are partial fenderwell headers. With the Proparts one tube on the passenger side and two on the drivers side run through the wheelwells but the rest of the tubes and the collectors all go under the car like normal under chassis headers so doing an exhaust system is easy. In order to keep your PS with the Proparts you will need to fab or get a custom short 90 degree fitting for the high pressure inlet on the steering box because one of the tubes is directly over it and the stock fitting points the hose right into the header. I ran the Schumachers on mine and ran a best of 11.48 @ 117 with them with full exhaust in 100% street trim. I now have the Propart headers and it has gone 11.125 @ 121 with them and like before that's with full exhaust in 100% street trim. Check my YouTube channel to see my car. The name of my channel is the same as here on FABO, Doosterfy.
 
Heres some photos of the Propart headers and the custom fitting on the steering box during the install.
 

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Oh and if you put a Chevy in it get ready to be shunned by the Mopar crowd. I take some ribbing just for having a Strange nine inch axle in mine even though there is not one part on it made by Ford. My advice is to keep Mopar power under the hood.
 
Oh no its mopar or no car... He just wanted me to buy a 350 with a big cam from him... NO CHEVY. And you are a god send sir cause you basically have the same thing I wanna do minus boost. Headers I was thinking TTI shorty's cause there should be enough for clearance and a hammer can help. Intake I wanna use is the torker2 with a 850cfm carb
 
Doosterfy said:
Heres some photos of the Propart headers and the custom fitting on the steering box during the install.
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Thanks for those pictures, they look like the same headers that were on my car when I got it. I've been trying to figure out who made them for a long time.
 
kmkstu said:
Oh no its mopar or no car... He just wanted me to buy a 350 with a big cam from him... NO CHEVY. And you are a god send sir cause you basically have the same thing I wanna do minus boost. Headers I was thinking TTI shorty's cause there should be enough for clearance and a hammer can help. Intake I wanna use is the torker2 with a 850cfm carb
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I run a Torker II with a Holley 850 double pumper on mine. My carb is upgraded with a Proform main body so I'm sure the flow is improved over a standard 850. The only reason I run the Torker II instead of something taller like a Mopar M1 or an Edelbrock Victor is because I want to keep a flat hood with an air filter on mine. The taller intakes will make more power but will not fit under the flat hood. I like Torker IIs, most guys dismiss them as junk but the truth is they're pretty good. I've run them on a small block Chevy, a Pontiac and now on my 440 and never been disappointed.
 
72Duster440 said:
Thanks for those pictures, they look like the same headers that were on my car when I got it. I've been trying to figure out who made them for a long time.
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The Propart headers have been made by a few different companies over the years. I'm pretty sure CPPA and Mancini Racing have sold them in the past but for some reason they stop producing/selling them. Bob Mazzolini is the latest vendor to offer them. Mazzolini is having them made by TTI for him. The Mazzolini versions are different than the predecesors because unlike the others that were 2 inch primaries, The Mazzolini versions are step headers that are 2" to 2 1/8" with 3 1/2" collectors. Basically they're huge as you can see in the pictures.
 

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This is what I'm wanting to put in that 440
Flowtech headers
Lunati cam and lifter kit 498/513 lift
3 bolt double roller chain
Torker ll intake
850cfm card
Ported heads (cast) with 86cc chambers
Decked block
Factory forged crank
 
kmkstu said:
Will flow tech headers fit a big block a body
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I have no idea. I did not even know Flowtech made big block Mopar headers. You'll have to check with them on that. If they are not absolutely certain they fit you should assume they will not. I can tell you for sure that the Scumacher Try-Y headers do fit and are the easiest by far to install. They would be good with your combo because its mild. Also a Performer RPM intake will do better than the Torker II on your engine.
 
Flowtechs are B/E body headers - they require LOTS of pounding and the Schumacher motor mount shim kit to fit - I'd be running them if I wasn't offered 2" TTi's for cheap -

PM if you want mine - have 2 sets - 1 pounded, and one pair not - they are older I'll sell them cheap!
 
Ok after lots of reading you don't really lose any hp denting in your headers and with some headers there has been gains up 12 hp. But I am gonna have to cut 7inches out of the fenders. No biggie that's what grinders are for. I'll be picking up my motor soon has my return hits $500 for 440 and 727 with only 30k on them.
 
My 2" under chassis headers required pounding.. the only way you'll lose power is pounding the tubes in half which they don't require that much - mine was mostly to clear the steering linkage

Mine is a 383, but are meant for a 440 - and were in a 700hp 440 A body with less pounding than I had to do







 
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