Subframe conector replacement

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barty005

barty005

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Sounds odd I know but having got the car back to New Zealand I've got a couple of compliance issues. One being the welds on the connectors also when they where put in the guy notched them for the brake line and fuel breather line. ( Personally I would have removed the breather and moved the brake line which is what I'm planning )
Question I have if I remove one at a time will the body twist etc if placed on a 2 post hoist or am I better to try and do it on the floor with axle stands at home if I use the hoist there is a welder there unfortunately I can't borrow it to bring home so I'd have to buy or rent one I guess.
Main reason for replacement is to tidy it all up as the notched bits look messy and would take forever to fill and grind etc to look right.
 
I haven't done this myself, but I have heard it's best to do it when the weight of the vehicle is actually on the tires. I'm sure others will comment when the sun comes up on the northern hemisphere.
 
JoesEdge said:
I haven't done this myself, but I have heard it's best to do it when the weight of the vehicle is actually on the tires. I'm sure others will comment when the sun comes up on the northern hemisphere.
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to me, I`d rather have the car setting leveled on jackstands. most of these cars have taken a twist after setting on springs that don't age and settle the same, or are twisted from bigger h.p. I like getting it as square and level as possible, then welding in the subframe conn. even if you have to readjust the doors a little. if you do, it proves - it wasn't setting right to start with. why weld one up that`s crooked ? if ur planning on big h.p., u might want at least a 6 point cage and or rocker boxes.
 
assuming you can verify the car is level - I would go for the weight of car on it's wheels & tires... get four ramps and park the car on them - now you can still get under there and the car should sitting "right" - as in weight distributed the way it would be under normal conditions.. installing a roll cage before doing the subframe connectors is a great idea.. again, assuming you are sure the car is straight and level..
 
famous bob said:
to me, I`d rather have the car setting leveled on jackstands. most of these cars have taken a twist after setting on springs that don't age and settle the same, or are twisted from bigger h.p. I like getting it as square and level as possible, then welding in the subframe conn. even if you have to readjust the doors a little. if you do, it proves - it wasn't setting right to start with. why weld one up that`s crooked ? if ur planning on big h.p., u might want at least a 6 point cage and or rocker boxes.
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100% ^^^^, it is terrible advice to weld one up "on the wheels", mismatched/worn
leaf sprngs,worn bushings,mis-adjusted T-bars, and wear and tear could have the
unibody mis-aligned like a fun-house mirror. The car should be set-up on the level
and checked for such as well as square,AFTER you've cut the connectors loose,then
using multiple supports make it as right as poss. B4 welding them back in.
BTW,who is the non-compliance with? As Blindsquirrel and Longarm said,pics please
:coffee2:
 
screw jacks under the frame at 4 points, level to frame specs in FSM and try door. then weld in connectors. You dont want to weld a lobsided frame.
 
I would post some pictures, maybe we could provide some insight before you go through cutting them out...
 
If it is a compliance issue......they are a chasis modification anyhow. Why not cut them out, grind the welds off, finish your compliance and then fabricate a proper set the way that you want them?
 
d55dave said:
If it is a compliance issue......they are a chasis modification anyhow. Why not cut them out, grind the welds off, finish your compliance and then fabricate a proper set the way that you want them?
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i did think of that but down here you have a cert tag fitted to the vehicle once its modified and has passed inspection. these are checked every time the car goes in for a warrant of fitness (saftey inspection) due to it being old than 2001 thats every 6 months so id get caught out sooner or latter someone would notice them not being on the tag.
 
as you can see weld are not so good and the cut out bits really need to be sorted ive already removed the breather line. i was looking at filling in the cut out bits but think that as these are not of the shelf connectors for the price of some more box section it would be quicker and easier to just replace and end up with nice welds.
just really comes down to the best way to go about it. hence thoughts of doing 1 at a time while on a 2 post hoist (easier access under car and to a welder )VS axle stands at home and renting welder dont mind either.
but surly if a 2 post hoist is supporting the car at the same points or close to as where axle stands would go the should sit the same ???? have to asume hoist has been put in level of course.


Sorry just noticed ph to computer has turned pics 90 degrees
 

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That connector material does look pretty thin... How does the rear subframe section look?


One option if you wanted to keep them:

Grind down the offending welds and plate 2"x3" area of the crossmember on either side of where the connector meets the crossmember.

Then I would plate each side of the connector covering old boys previous notch job.

Once you have all 4 patches welded in place you can weld the seam between them and it will be significantly stronger than it is now. Why anyone would notch the connectors and not reroute the lines is beyond me...

When I did the subframe connector installation on this 72 I plated the crossmember section with a 2"x5"x.125 plate then cut my own connectors from 2x3x.125 tube. I notched out the rear top section of the tube and encased the rear subframe rail all the way back to the leading edge of the leaf spring mount. I redid the brake line and ran it down the inside edge of the subframe connector / rear sub frame - little more protected there than out under the rocker panel...
 
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