Subframe Connectors by Competition Engineering

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Garys72Duster

Garys72Duster

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Has anyone used these connectors? P/N C 3115 at Summit. 1970 Dart. They are about $40 less than the Mopar Perf units. They are a bolt in, with 6 bolts per side. I wonder 1) If they are strong enough? 2) Should they be welded in, after installation? To make it more rigid. Does that help? 3) How do you remove the undercoating around the weld areas? Heat it with a propane torch, and then scrape it off? All suggestions, comments are appreciated, . Thanks!
 
Thats what i have, i welded them in using a plate on the front to give it more strength. There are better ones but mine were free.
 
Garys72Duster said:
Has anyone used these connectors? P/N C 3115 at Summit.
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I haven't myself.

Garys72Duster said:
Should they be welded in, after installation?
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In my mind welded is better than bolted.

Garys72Duster said:
How do you remove the undercoating around the weld areas? Heat it with a propane torch, and then scrape it off?
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Yes.

With that said, you can buy your own material, cut to fit and weld them in. I put a set in my car for 40 bucks and a little work.

There are numerous threads on this subject, at least 2 right now up and current. You can get some good ideas there for making your own. Of course you'll need a way to cut them, and then to weld them in.
 
Bad Sport said:
I haven't myself.



In my mind welded is better than bolted.



Yes.

With that said, you can buy your own material, cut to fit and weld them in. I put a set in my car for 40 bucks and a little work.

There are numerous threads on this subject, at least 2 right now up and current. You can get some good ideas there for making your own. Of course you'll need a way to cut them, and then to weld them in.
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Yes I have considered that. Still need a welder, though. I can Bolt these in, then take them to the local muffler shop for welding. He does great work!
 
Yes there's many threads going now and again I say it and every one of them by the time by those $209 frame connectors you can buy an $89 Harbor Freight welder$35 Harbor Freight helmet $5 Harbor Freight gloves of $15 Harbor Freight cutter grinder and the $30 for the material to make the frame connective. Still under the original $209 frame connectors that once you bolt them and you want to weld them anyways.
 
Yes, I was looking at a Harbor Freight welder on sale for $95! 125 amp, welds up to 3/16 inch steel. It's a flux core wire feed. Would this get the job done? Haven't welded for 30 or more years. But welding is like riding a bicycle, right? You never forget how. LOL. Also found out my Dart Custom is a 111 inch wheelbase. I was shocked! All this time I thought it was a 108, but I measured it. Must have grown longer while sitting in my garage! Ha! Seems to be some misinformation from the parts warehouses as to what years and models are 108 or 111. Any clues on the various A body models wheelbase length?
 
Garys72Duster said:
Yes, I was looking at a Harbor Freight welder on sale for $95! 125 amp, welds up to 3/16 inch steel. It's a flux core wire feed. Would this get the job done? Haven't welded for 30 or more years. But welding is like riding a bicycle, right? You never forget how. LOL. Also found out my Dart Custom is a 111 inch wheelbase. I was shocked! All this time I thought it was a 108, but I measured it. Must have grown longer while sitting in my garage! Ha! Seems to be some misinformation from the parts warehouses as to what years and models are 108 or 111. Any clues on the various A body models wheelbase length?
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I think I paid less for mine and it's done everything under the sun. I mean don't get me wrong when I weld in my roll bar and I borrowed my uncle's good welder. But for the little jobs it's almost better than gas because you can really just make it very mobile.
 
Time and energy are limited, so I just ordered some Mopar Perf bolt in connectors. They are 1.5" by 2". The Only ones bigger are the Hotchkiss weld ins for $60 more. 1.5 by 2.5. So a half inch wider. At least I can get these things bolted in, then weld them at a later date. My 7.5 to 1 RV 440 doesn't hardly torque the frame right now, anyway. Once I get a Hi Output 451 in there, and bigger tires, then I'll need them welded in for sure.
 
Also, the 108 " wheelbase bolt ins made by Competition Engineering, won't fit my 111" car. Only MP has a bolt in for the 111". Hotchkiss has the best one, for $280. Ouch! Weld ins, made in the good ole USA! I like theirs the best, but pricey.
 
HOLY SMOKES? I JUST LOOKED UP HOW MUCH THOSE COST!

So have you read the installation instructions on those?
 
Garys72Duster said:
Time and energy are limited, so I just ordered some Mopar Perf bolt in connectors. They are 1.5" by 2". The Only ones bigger are the Hotchkiss weld ins for $60 more. 1.5 by 2.5. So a half inch wider. At least I can get these things bolted in, then weld them at a later date. My 7.5 to 1 RV 440 doesn't hardly torque the frame right now, anyway. Once I get a Hi Output 451 in there, and bigger tires, then I'll need them welded in for sure.
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Did you read the two reviews from Jags? For the Mopar performance a body bolt in frame connectors?
 
I've read the reviews on Summit. Looked good. I'll look them over when they get here, he said i can return them if I don't like them. I didn't like the fact that the Mopar performance ones aren't painted, but I can do that. I got them for $217 from Summit, including tax and shipping. If I was younger, probably would have gone with build my own. But now at 67, I have more money than energy. LOL
 
I have read the installation instructions for all 3 brands. The MP ones were very limited, and could have had more detail. The Comp Engineering ones were priced around $175 last week. Price went up.
 
I've never drilled The Sixteen holes underneath the car that will allow you to start putting bolts in, but it seems like by the time you got all those holes drilled in perfect and straight....
Lol anyways, holding them up there to mark all the holes, drill the holes while laying on your back and having your arms extended up in the air and holding them up there why you try and get the bolts in LOL I always laugh when people pay all that money they're going to jump out of the box and install themselves...LOL
 
j par said:
I've never drilled The Sixteen holes underneath the car that will allow you to start putting bolts in, but it seems like by the time you got all those holes drilled in perfect and straight....
Lol anyways, holding them up there to mark all the holes, drill the holes while laying on your back and having your arms extended up in the air and holding them up there why you try and get the bolts in LOL I always laugh when people pay all that money they're going to jump out of the box and install themselves...LOL
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instead of scrapping metal, start making frame connectors and sell them right here on FABO. All these threads, there is a market. Say, 70 bucks shipped 1.5" x 3"
 
j par said:
I've never drilled The Sixteen holes underneath the car that will allow you to start putting bolts in, but it seems like by the time you got all those holes drilled in perfect and straight....
Lol anyways, holding them up there to mark all the holes, drill the holes while laying on your back and having your arms extended up in the air and holding them up there why you try and get the bolts in LOL I always laugh when people pay all that money they're going to jump out of the box and install themselves...LOL
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Looks like 4 bolts per side, total of 8 for both sides. Reviews all said installation was fairly easy.
 
Garys72Duster said:
Looks like 4 bolts per side, total of 8 for both sides. Reviews all said installation was fairly easy.
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Remember all those bolts go through double wall? It's in the wall then 3in. later another thin wall. Make sure you're bit is very parallel so your bolts aren't crooked.
 
318willrun said:
instead of scrapping metal, start making frame connectors and sell them right here on FABO. All these threads, there is a market. Say, 70 bucks shipped 1.5" x 3"
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It's 1 and 1/2 by 2 and 1/2 and I couldn't rip people off like the Chinese do. It's simply a 4-foot piece of Steel. I thought some of the value was in the powder coating LOL not even that on these Mopar performance ones.
 
If you just bolt them in , get some 2 inch spacers into the frame so you can tighten the bolts without crushing the frame rails , like the trans cross member bolts. A good hardware store has them or cut your own from thick wall 1 inch tubing. There are drain holes in the frame rails , and use a flexible magnet to fit them into place. May have to open up drain holes some with dye grinder.
 
Good point, pro451! The Comp Engineering ones come with crush sleeves. Couldn't understand why they were needed, now I see. I'll do that. I was going to buy theirs, until I measured my wheelbase at 111". They only make theirs for 108" wheelbase. They are priced now at $205!
 
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