Subframe connectors question

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MoparMark91

MoparMark91

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Alright guys well kind of have a debacle question going on so here it goes. So I had received from my dad some Mopar performance subframe connectors for my 71 dart swinger. Well I pulled my car into the shop to put it on the lift so we could weld them in. So I know right off the bat it was a little out of alignment but I figured I'll work with it well we got everything mocked up and clamped. Only thing I really didn't like was the rear of the connector would not go all the way up. It is about a half inch from the connector being bottomed out on the frame. I see the reason it didn't is because the bar was hitting the floor pan preventing it from going up anymore, so my dad insisted that it would be okay so I welded it all up but there is a gap between the the bottom of the connector and the frame. Would this make a big difference? I know it don't look the beat so I'm debating on either a) try to cut free the connectors and start over. B) box it in with a plate on the backside and weld it?

I'll post pictures tomorrow but it's been bugging me since yesterday and I feel like cutting it back out is going to be a *****
 
I think you want the weight of the car to be on the ground leveled on all 4 corners not hanging in the air.
 
Jadaharabi said:
I think you want the weight of the car to be on the ground leveled on all 4 corners not hanging in the air.
Click to expand...
Yeah so probably going to have to take the cut off wheel or plasma cutter to it damn it the directions showed to lift it by the frame
 
Your OK as long as the car was level. That gap you have between the floor worked out good on my Duster. I ran the Park brake cable above the frame tie. I saw the US tool style. and thought about the brake cable because the are formed to the floor. They would be good for a race car . I wanted to keep the parking brake. You'll be OK. I welded mine in on the lift years ago . It was easy for an old guy. Doors still worked perfect and the car launched straight wheels in the air.

I have a Valiant coming . Race car went to a race shop. Paid big money for made stainless fenderwell headers. The cut the down tubes off under the hood. They had it on the ground and welded new down tubes in. When he went to pick the car up the right rear slick was flat. They pumped it up and the right front tire came off the ground. After going to look at the car to repair it we saw they even had to make two different length down tubes. And still didn't know the tire was flat.

so setting the car on the ground is not always the best. Jack stands under the rear are not good either when you have super stock springs . My car leaned hard to the left with those springs. we are making a 108 and 111 rack out of Mario Andretti's Sprint car frame straightener to put these A-bodies cars on now. We went to 3-n-1 Race weld in Nazareth Pa. and bought it just for this reason. I really think you'll be OK as long as your lift isn' bent bad.

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The spot I'm talking about is like this in the picture the rear of the connector isn't bottomed out to the frame, I have about a half inch gap. The car sits level and everything it's just I couldn't get it to hug the frame up any higher

Borrowed picture for example

20190120_115005~2.jpg
 
I wouldnt have welded it until i was happy with it. Have a buddy that is same, good enough!
Its something that is going to bug you,may as well make it to your satisfaction.
My car, my decision.
 
Look at the gap in these pictures.

When I say on the ground I'm not saying on the tires. I'm saying to level up the car parallel to the ground on all four corners.

quick subframe connectors question | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
quick subframe connectors question

Omm
Got passed by an Andretti Motorsports semi truck this afternoon out on the interstate.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Look at the gap in these pictures.

When I say on the ground I'm not saying on the tires. I'm saying to level up the car parallel to the ground on all four corners.

quick subframe connectors question | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
quick subframe connectors question

Omm
Got passed by an Andretti Motorsports semi truck this afternoon out on the interstate.
Click to expand...


hey!
i was quite happy with the way those came out

i guess the make of the connectors is important
 
well it looks like the deed was done. Myself personally I just couldn't see paying hundreds of dollars for a straight piece of metal but I had to weld in anyways. I spent $40 and went down the steelyard and bought a piece of straight metal.
But to the point mine hit the floor boards before they went flat across and I went ahead and push them up against a floorboard and maybe denting in the floorboard just a hair bit and welded along the floorboard. Kind of a stitch weld a couple inches on this side then a couple inches on that side... Of course you would want to take the front seats out and the carpet LOL...
 
Jadaharabi said:
Was not being derogatory or negative. I was using it as an example Was just saying for him to look at how that was done.
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thanks

thats why i think it is important to know who made the ones hes working on
if hes got US cartools, they need to sit tight
but if they follow the design i went, well, those dont support the floor in the same way so it become a moot point
 
Jadaharabi said:
Look at the gap in these pictures.

When I say on the ground I'm not saying on the tires. I'm saying to level up the car parallel to the ground on all four corners.

quick subframe connectors question | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
quick subframe connectors question

Omm
Got passed by an Andretti Motorsports semi truck this afternoon out on the interstate.
Click to expand...
Yeah see so those ones have the exact gap mine have! So is that a crucial big deal?
 
My USCT connectors had fitment issues and I tried to get them to work better with cutting and grinding for a while but ended up just welding them in. I think as long as they’re welded a few inches, every few inches, they’ll be fine. I haven’t had any trouble with them, just don’t look at them haha
 
Made my own from 2x3 steel tubing. They hit the front end of the rear frame rail before they hit toward the rear, caused a small gap at the end. I welded them up this way and didn’t worry about it. This was an early A though so might a little different for you.

F395E440-7D07-41A4-B30A-78685892CF5E.jpeg


B9EE5B70-2942-464B-8075-78A9E797F3C6.jpeg
 
Garethw said:
Made my own from 2x3 steel tubing. They hit the front end of the rear frame rail before they hit toward the rear, caused a small gap at the end. I welded them up this way and didn’t worry about it. This was an early A though so might a little different for you.

View attachment 1715569887

View attachment 1715569888
Click to expand...
Yeah that's like the same issue I have, I might just be overthinking it too much, I could always make a little plate to block the rear gap but it's hugged up really tight and car is straight as can be. I'm going to take picture once I get home from work and post them but it might be alright
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Your OK as long as the car was level. That gap you have between the floor worked out good on my Duster. I ran the Park brake cable above the frame tie. I saw the US tool style. and thought about the brake cable because the are formed to the floor. They would be good for a race car . I wanted to keep the parking brake. You'll be OK. I welded mine in on the lift years ago . It was easy for an old guy. Doors still worked perfect and the car launched straight wheels in the air.

I have a Valiant coming . Race car went to a race shop. Paid big money for made stainless fenderwell headers. The cut the down tubes off under the hood. They had it on the ground and welded new down tubes in. When he went to pick the car up the right rear slick was flat. They pumped it up and the right front tire came off the ground. After going to look at the car to repair it we saw they even had to make two different length down tubes. And still didn't know the tire was flat.

so setting the car on the ground is not always the best. Jack stands under the rear are not good either when you have super stock springs . My car leaned hard to the left with those springs. we are making a 108 and 111 rack out of Mario Andretti's Sprint car frame straightener to put these A-bodies cars on now. We went to 3-n-1 Race weld in Nazareth Pa. and bought it just for this reason. I really think you'll be OK as long as your lift isn' bent bad.

View attachment 1715569832

View attachment 1715569838

View attachment 1715569839
Click to expand...
Yeah I didn't have to relocate the cable either I was able to just run it over top but I might be alright it's not a huge amount and I made sure it was on as much as it can go and it's really sturdy to. I was able to feel the difference a little when I drove around the block after. Main thing was the floor pans were preventing it from coming up any more
 
I had a similar issue with homemade subframe connectors made of 2" x 3" box tubing. I ended up putting a jack under the back end of the connectors and pushing them up flush against the rear frame rails before I welded them in. In my mind once they're welded in and the jack is let down it puts a constant tension on the connectors to kind of "pull" the front and rear subframes together. I do have a slight raised area in the floor in front of the back seat now but it's barely noticeable unless you're looking for it.
 
Here are the pictures guys don't judge lol and the weird part of welding these in also is for some reason even with clean metal at certain parts it was giving me a hard time and had to up the gas a little but anyways u can see in one of the picture why I couldn't get it to hug up more tdue to the bar hitting the floor pan in the middle

IMG_20200730_060450.jpg


MVIMG_20200730_060425.jpg


IMG_20200730_060447.jpg


IMG_20200730_060435.jpg
 
Jadaharabi said:
I think you want the weight of the car to be on the ground leveled on all 4 corners not hanging in the air.
Click to expand...
It's funny because I just installed Moroso sub-frame connectors and the directions specifically say to put the car up by the frame and let the rear axle dangle.
I did not do that. I feel like I would have panel issues once I let it down. I had the car up by the wheels and installed them. It worked out good. Doors didnt change how they open or close.
 
ChuckDock said:
It's funny because I just installed Moroso sub-frame connectors and the directions specifically say to put the car up by the frame and let the rear axle dangle.
I did not do that. I feel like I would have panel issues once I let it down. I had the car up by the wheels and installed them. It worked out good. Doors didnt change how they open or close.
Click to expand...

I let my suspension hang on my convertable because I had tighter top door gaps. I Carefully measured and tacked in. Then sat down on suspension to check door gap. I was very nervous but got both door gaps perfect.Then I finished my welding. Normally I would not do this. I did not let suspension hang when I did my Hardtop.
 
so you have a little place for water to drain out of. i understand if it bugs you, but i don't think it's worth all the work to cut them out and reweld them
 
Kendog 170 said:
I let my suspension hang on my convertable because I had tighter top door gaps. I Carefully measured and tacked in. Then sat down on suspension to check door gap. I was very nervous but got both door gaps perfect.Then I finished my welding. Normally I would not do this. I did not let suspension hang when I did my Hardtop.
Click to expand...
That makes sense to me. Sounds like it worked out well for you doing it that way.
 
MoparMark91 said:
Yeah that's like the same issue I have, I might just be overthinking it too much, I could always make a little plate to block the rear gap but it's hugged up really tight and car is straight as can be. I'm going to take picture once I get home from work and post them but it might be alright
Click to expand...

thats what i did, just cut a little plate, weld it in to close the gap and call it good
 
MoparMark91 said:
Here are the pictures guys don't judge lol and the weird part of welding these in also is for some reason even with clean metal at certain parts it was giving me a hard time and had to up the gas a little but anyways u can see in one of the picture why I couldn't get it to hug up more tdue to the bar hitting the floor pan in the middle

View attachment 1715570025

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View attachment 1715570028
Click to expand...

Have you been hanging out with Tom Hanks? I see his friend under your car.
 
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