Subwoofers in a cruiser mopar

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Had two kicker solobaric 12s rear facing in the trunk of my old duster back in the day. Very loud.

The best thing you can do for any subs is get the box right and designed for those specific subs. Buy an amp rated to provide atleast what the subs max rating are, the less an amp has to work the better. I blew up alot of subs because the amp was too small and distorting.
 
Exactly!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^

And yet others here semi roast me for the same comment Zane wacko replies of …. I don’t wanna go deaf!

Don’t wanna go deaf, don’t turn it up for hours at a time.
 
As far as rear speakers all it does is add extra volume. You want to set up the sound stage to come from a bit above the dash or as close to it as possible. Have you ever been to a concert or even the symphony? How much sound comes from behind you? Only the low end frequency that is bouncing off the walls. There are no speakers behind you. Do your ears face forward or backward? So at most you would put woofers in the rear of the vehicle and subwoofers in the trunk. As far as amp power yes get the rms power that is as close to possible of the subwoofer. If it is to much bass for you turn the gain down. Power is not what kills speakers, it is the distortion. When an audio signal starts to distort it changes from a sign wave to a square wave, which is equivalent to tapping the speaker with a battery.
 
Princess Valiant said:
Anyone have an audio system in a mopar that includes a subwoofer or 5 and is a high power system.

What do you run and how did you install it to not be too intrusive in an original dash?

I have been kicking around the idea for awhile installing a high powered system in a 68 valiant. I've been driving a newer Mercedes and now I'm spoiled and I want a system that bumps in the valiant too.

I'm not talking about a weak system for some old *** guitar rock, I'm talking about a heart pacing bass bump that will make the deck lid rattle and knock the license plate off.

Anyone?
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If I was doing it, I would fiberglass mold the a pillar to fit a tweeter and the same with the midrange in the kick panel. This way you can always take it back to original if you decide to. As far as radio you can build a console or hide the radio somewhere such as glove box and control it via bluetooth. If all things are hidden it is less likely to draw attention for theft. Subs I would build a sealed box. One, due to size, sealed boxes are normally smaller and the they hit harder (are not as loose sounding). If you feel like you wanted more fill and rear speakers. Then 6 1/2 mid-woofer in the rear deck sealed from the trunk. You have to be careful with deck speakers and subwoofers in the trunk. The pressure of the sub will move the deck speaker cone around and cause distortion. Would not use 6x9 speakers they do not produce correct sound due to the shape.
 
diymirage said:
I was gonna say go for it, but now that I see what your fixing to play on it, let me remind you of this Missy "the louder the music, the louzier the music"
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Haha I dunno, have you ever been to a Motorhead concert? My ears didn't stop ringing for a week!
 
I fabbed up the head unit box from sheetmetal using the plastic mounting adapter for double-din Ford vehicles. I have the subwoofer under the front seat, 6x9s in the rear package shelf. It could use some front speakers. This is great in my cruiser, it has enough thump that you hear from all body and glass shortcomings in the car. It's not going to win awards and your neighbors won't hear it a mile away, but it entertains occupants! Subwoofer is wired direct to battery with a standard wiring kit.

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See if you can find a sub box out of a wrecked newer Charger or Challenger.
 
I’ve won many car stereo contests back in the day, install, the clean sound and the decimal readings. I had $7000 into my systems. I won most of that money back. Get a pair of these, I did use these in my newer cars. They sound great and portable.
bazooka.com

BT Series 12” 4 ohm Passive Bass Tubes4 Ohm / Single

Bass Tubes enclosure design for maximum efficiency Optimized for corner loading for maximum bass output High power handling woofer Recommended Power: Any amp 150-watts or more Space efficient design Includes straps for secure mounting Fast, free shipping on orders over $50 BILT® 3D Interactive...
bazooka.com

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My favorite was an old sony under dash cassette deck,pioneer 120 watt amp and a pair of house speakers in the back of my dart sport. I think the speakers were techniques.
Lately, i tried a bargain brand head unit for bluetooth, no power and lots of noise. Upgraded to a pioneer and im real happy with it. Speakers need better boxes, and more soundproofing in the cab. When i get back on Barracuda, will be looking for some Bose stuff.
 
I had a 10" JL Audio slim sub box behind the rear seat in one of my cars. It was fine if you wanted to add a little bass.
If you want to go to a good car audio forum try DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum. I spent a lot of time there when I went down the slippery slope of car audio design and DSP tuning. I spent many hours tuning the stereo using my laptop with acoustics software and an acoustical mic to record the audio signals.
 
Have done it on many cars. Really depends on what you want it to look like in the end. You can do a generic enclosure and use MDF board if you are good with wood. With wood you could get into many angles depending on how you want the box mounted, how big it needs to be or if part of the box is going to be down in the quarter panel. Or, you could do all fiberglass. Or a mix of the two. To get the best sound you just need to make sure the enclosure is the right size and you have the right power for the subwoofer. It is best not to have a perfectly square/rectangular enclosure anyway. I was happy with the way they all turned out just while testing them. They were not all my cars but never had any complaints.
 
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Thanks for the input.

Has anyone tried installing tweeters under my the headliner in the rear (C post), near the dome lights?
 
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