super six now where the heck do all these vacuum ports go to?

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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66 slant dart, removed single and swapped in a carter double barrel. Did the whole super six thing, mani etc...
So I installed the carb and it has many more vacuum ports than my old Holley 1920.

Any pictures of how to properly connect the vacuum system on this? Please help I want to start it up tomorrow.
 
No, because the Super Six had a ton more vacuum operated stuff than yours does. You will need to block off most of them. The only one I can imagine you will need is the ported vacuum for the distributor. Maybe the ported vacuum for the EGR if it has one. Of course the PCV valve from the base of the carburetor and the power brake booster to the intake......if so equipped.

You have us at a huge disadvantage here, because we have zero clue what all your engine has in the way of vacuum operated accessories.

A picture or two would help.
 
Oops, good call. yea it is the 225 3.7 slanty. The only vacuum things I had on the holley 1bbl was one from the PCV valve, 1 from the oil filler vent and 1 from the distrib. Also on the holley it had a short vacuum hose going from the choke pulloff down to the base.

The new one I have has several ports on the base, also the choke pulloff hose has been cut so not sure where that goes. And to make matters more complicated, I have the super six air cleaner, which seems to have a small hose coming off of it? And the exhaust manifold has a port on it like a small round thing? I also put in a plug on the intake manifold, like was plugged on my original one.
here is a few pics from the current install.
There is one port on the carter near the base under the gas line that already has a blocked off nipple on it. Also I think I put the PCV hose on the wrong port.

carter - 1 (1).jpg


carter - 1 (2).jpg


carter - 1 (3).jpg


carter - 1 (4).jpg


carter - 1.jpg
 
maybe some help, anything you dont recognize, just plug it

bbd-manual.jpg
 
I don't know for sure but I don't think the bowl vent fitting (upper right picture) should be plugged. Perhaps that went to a charcoal canister in the 70's?
 
Great pics. What does the "heated air" port go to? Is that one that would connect to the hose coming off the air cleaner? And I assume that the "Y" connection from the choke pulloff is not part of my situation? Gonna try to get this thing working today. Oh and "Canister purge"? any ideas?
 
Canister purge see here, not applicable to your '66, plug it. Heated air port goes to one side of the thermostatic air cleaner's temp sensor (two nipples side by side on the underside of the air cleaner). Delete the "Y" connection off the choke pull-off.
 
So here's pic of the air cleaner. Which ports should I try to use? There is a large nipple on the underside currently not attached to anything. Also a small nipple on the bottom that is not connected to anything. I have connected the nipple at the outside back to one of the hot air inlets on the carb. Not sure if it is doing anything. Ideas?

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IMG_3469.jpg
 
That widget on the side of the air cleaner is an OSAC valve. It does nothing good, just worsens your driveability and fuel economy. Originally there would've been a vacuum hose connected from that widget to the carburetor, and another from the widget to the distributor. Take the widget out of the line; run the hose directly from the carburetor to the distributor. Life's much better that way.

The large nipple on the underside of the snorkel, and the two small nipples on the underside of the round part of the air cleaner body, are for your thermostatic air cleaner. This system is all benefit and zero drawback, so it should be in good working condition. One of the small underside nipples gets manifold vacuum from a port on the carb, the other nipple goes to the nipple on the round vacuum actuator perched atop the snorkel. The large nipple on the underside of the snorkel gets a flex duct running down to the sheetmetal "stove" surrounding the central collector portion of the exhaust manifold.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals (including diagrams showing what port is for what purpose) and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Info on the thermostatic air cleaner system is here and here. (Yes, I still have some sensors left in stock)

Info on the various emission devices you're encountering: here. More specific detail on the evaporative emission control system here.
 
Thanks for the great info. So currently I do have distrib going directly to the carb. Then I hooked that OSAC at the back of the cleaner to a port on the carb called Heated Air. So sounds like I should disconnect that. Now for the thermostatic bit, where do I get manifold vacuum off the carb? Is that Heated Air port?
 
Myself, I just blocked off everything on the bottom of the air cleaner, so it would function as a pre-smog air cleaner with snorkel. I also took the flap out. Yes, the float chamber vent needs to be left open. I only hooked up vacuum advance, PCV, and the choke pull-off. There was a small vent tube on the rear (firewall direction) that also stayed uncapped, but I may not have the same carb you do.
 
gdizzle said:
Thanks for the great info.
Click to expand...

Your total is $2.25, please drive around to the second window :lol:

So currently I do have distrib going directly to the carb.
Click to expand...

Good (as long as you've got that hose on the correct carb port).

Then I hooked that OSAC at the back of the cleaner to a port on the carb called Heated Air.
Click to expand...

Nope, incorrect. That heated-air port on the carb is what supplies vacuum to your thermostatic air cleaner.

Now for the thermostatic bit, where do I get manifold vacuum off the carb? Is that Heated Air port?
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
$2.25 add it to the $100's of dollars of advice you provide daily to the slant 6 crowd. OK so i undid the OSAC, left it alone. I experimented with the Thermostatic thing, it doesnt seem to operate (I connected it directly to the manifold vacuum plug, lots of vacuum). I then tried with my mouth to get that flapper to move. I noticed that there is a small nipple inside the air cleaner that seems to just be exposed. I plugged it and then I got plenty of vacuum to move the flapper up. Am I supposed to plug that small nipple in there? Also when I uncapped the manifold vacuum (that is normally plugged) on the manifold, the engine revved much higher? Is that correct? I though that if there is a vacuum line open somewhere in the system, the idle will drop?
 
slantsixdan said:
Your total is $2.25, please drive around to the second window :lol:



Good (as long as you've got that hose on the correct carb port).



Nope, incorrect. That heated-air port on the carb is what supplies vacuum to your thermostatic air cleaner.



Yes.
Click to expand...
Your price is too cheep , the help you give us newbie's is great Thanks! I do have a question on the same subject KINDA , I have the 2 holly 1920's on my slant , and the hoses all look wrong to me, pcv & brake booster all hooked up to both carbs with t fitting's ? I was going to send pcv to one carb , and booster to the other , think that's a good fix?
7503m.jpg
 
gdizzle said:
$2.25 add it to the $100's of dollars of advice you provide daily to the slant 6 crowd.
Click to expand...

Well, okeh, I'll just move the decimal: Your total is $225, please drive round to the 2nd window!

I experimented with the Thermostatic thing, it doesnt seem to operate (I connected it directly to the manifold vacuum plug, lots of vacuum). I then tried with my mouth to get that flapper to move. I noticed that there is a small nipple inside the air cleaner that seems to just be exposed. I plugged it and then I got plenty of vacuum to move the flapper up.
Click to expand...

That dingus you plugged is the thermostat for the system. Yours is faulty; send me a PM for a new one. No, you shouldn't connect anything to that or plug it.

Also when I uncapped the manifold vacuum (that is normally plugged) on the manifold, the engine revved much higher?
Click to expand...

Well, you created a vacuum leak. That will tend to increase the engine speed.
 
desy500 said:
Your price is too cheep , the help you give us newbie's is great Thanks!
Click to expand...

Glad to help out.

I have the 2 holly 1920's on my slant , and the hoses all look wrong to me, pcv & brake booster all hooked up to both carbs with t fitting's
Click to expand...

Definitely wrong, bigtime. The brake booster should not be connected to the carbs or tied in with the PCV system like that, arrgh! PCV teed to both carbs is fine and correct. Brake booster should be connected directly to the manifold.

I was going to send pcv to one carb , and booster to the other
Click to expand...

No, that's even worse.
 
Ok still trying to get the Thermostatic dingus working. I can get flapper to move with mouth vacuum, and also I can get flapper to move if, while car is running and hoses hooked up, I plug the little chimney from inside the air cleaner. I have vacuum coming off the bottom of the carb, called Heated Air. I have now tried 2 different Thermostatic sensors. I have tried switching the hoses, no change. Flapper is supposed to open upon starting of a cold engine, right? It is warm here, like 95, would that cause flapper not to open?
 
It sounds like you have a backwards idea of what's supposed to be happening.

The damper door in the snorkel should rise, blocking off the air path straight through the snorkel (air coming in through the inlet on the bottom of the snorkel, which the flex duct connects to the sheetmetal "stove" surrounding the central collector part of the exhaust manifold, until the engine is good and warm -- then the damper door should gradually lower until the bottom inlet is blocked off and the straight-through inlet is free and clear. This will only occur if everything is in place (air cleaner lid, flex duct, stove), hooked up, and working correctly.

See here for Chrysler's own explanation.
 
slantsixdan said:
It sounds like you have a backwards idea of what's supposed to be happening.

The damper door in the snorkel should rise, blocking off the air path straight through the snorkel (air coming in through the inlet on the bottom of the snorkel, which the flex duct connects to the sheetmetal "stove" surrounding the central collector part of the exhaust manifold, until the engine is good and warm -- then the damper door should gradually lower until the bottom inlet is blocked off and the straight-through inlet is free and clear. This will only occur if everything is in place (air cleaner lid, flex duct, stove), hooked up, and working correctly.

See here for Chrysler's own explanation.
Click to expand...
When I said flapper opens at cold, I mean exactly what you describe, it blocks off air coming from top horn, and suck it from the stove hose thingy. I will test it again. But I am still a bit baffled that if I plug the chimney dingus, then flapper lifts up. I see a small check ball inside the chimney, which I assume should get sucked down by vacuum and blocked sending the vacuum to the other nipple which activates the flapp
 
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