Super Six vs. Hyper Pak

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ford12989

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What would give me a better gas mileage/power ratio? Is it worth getting a new cam and porting?
 
depends on what power your looking for... how about posting what you want to do, race, street, mpg, etc

then we can start this process
 
If you're lookin for a good all around street car, then IMO the Super Six will win. The Hyper Pack was made for high compression, big cam, 4 speed or loose converter and low gears. The super six will be much more streetable and have more snap on the bottom end with street gears and a mild engine. But like Ed said, we cannot give solid advice without knowing your intentions. My crystal ball is broken and I don't know anybody else's that's workin either. lol
 
I am looking for a car with good gas mileage, that is quick and will also be fun to drive. My engine will be in a 74 Valiant.
 
ford12989 said:
I am looking for a car with good gas mileage, that is quick and will also be fun to drive. My engine will be in a 74 Valiant.
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Go the supersix route. Also gasket match the head and manifolds. Use a 2-1/4" single exhaust with a free flowing muffler.
 
Also dont forget to recurve the distributor. Ed knows this off the top of his head but IIRC it is 10 degrees initial and 28 total all in by 2500 rpm
 
Oh yeah, don't forget to dothe fuel line mod outlined here:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15778

Trailbeast (FABO member) sells complete HEI ignition setups compatible with your factory elctronic ignition distributor which come with thorough instructions. $100. Or you can piece together your setup out the junkyard. Here is the article:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

JohnyDart (FABO member) Does distributor recurves if you dont wanna do it yourself. Here is a link outlining the proccess:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46266
 
ford12989, are you talking about a "Hyperpack" or just a 4 bble setup? There are big differences. Many people (too many) call any 4 bbl set a hyperpack. The "Hyperpack" is the long runner manifold originally made by Chrysler corp, and then copied by Doug Butra, and then sold by Clifford Performance. There are also 4 bbl manifolds made by Offie, Clifford (non hyperpack), Aussie Speed, and Weiand. There were also manifolds made in other contries, in different configurations.
 
/6 Matt said:
Also dont forget to recurve the distributor. Ed knows this off the top of his head but IIRC it is 10 degrees initial and 28 total all in by 2500 rpm
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at least someone has some confidence in me! LOL ive been running 12intial, 30 total @2500, 42 with vacuum. im gonna try 16 initial, 30 total by 2000 ( reason being is i dont drive over 55 in my area and im never that high in the rpm so timing floats around, im thinking lower "all in" will help low end mileage and tq) and 52 or so vacuum

Charrlie_S said:
ford12989, are you talking about a "Hyperpack" or just a 4 bble setup? There are big differences. Many people (too many) call any 4 bbl set a hyperpack. The "Hyperpack" is the long runner manifold originally made by Chrysler corp, and then copied by Doug Butra, and then sold by Clifford Performance. There are also 4 bbl manifolds made by Offie, Clifford (non hyperpack), Aussie Speed, and Weiand. There were also manifolds made in other contries, in different configurations.
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it posts like this that make me realize i still take stuff for granted...

only thing we should mention at add is that the offy, aussie speed stuff(unless they started making a big port intake) are stock port sizes and plenum volumes. the clifford has a larger port size and plenum volume which is better for high rpm or bigger cubes. lastly i beleive the weiand is the "same" as an offy as far as specs

for a street car the offy or aussie speed intake is the way to go...
 
I guess I was talking about just a four barrel setup since I do not know what entirely goes into a hyperpack. With the supersix setup should I use headers and a new intake or wont that do much?
 
hi im 7t1gt and new to the site but not new to cars I would do all that these guy's suggest iv read a lot of there posts any ways here's my 2cents I would do a mild port, after market intake an carb with a header with full exaust the better the engine can breath the better = better mpg and power all the way around but remember not to over do it or u will defeat the perpose of your goals and by the way love the site

:headbang: :burnout:
 
My personal opinion, for a street car where MPG is important.
1) increase compression (mill head)
2) reduce exhaust restriction (larger pipes and free flowing muffler)
3) 2 bbl manifold and carb (super six)
4) change cam (mild grind)
5) recurve distributer to match the other mods.
Do in the order listed, or all together.

Depending on money and/or skill, add to above
1) Valve job (stock valve sizes) and some mild pocket porting, while the head is off for milling.
2) dual exhaust outlets on engine. (Not headers, either Dutra duals, or modified stock manifold with dual outlets like Memikes.) single or dual pipes to the rear (your preferance).

PS: Best "bang for the buck" is increasing compression. There is no down side (within limits). It helps power and economy, both.
Distributor recurve should be done, after the last mod you do, as each mod, can require a differt timing curve.
 
Charrlie_S said:
My personal opinion, for a street car where MPG is important.
1) increase compression (mill head)
2) reduce exhaust restriction (larger pipes and free flowing muffler)
3) 2 bbl manifold and carb (super six)
4) change cam (mild grind)
5) recurve distributer to match the other mods.
Do in the order listed, or all together.

Depending on money and/or skill, add to above
1) Valve job (stock valve sizes) and some mild pocket porting, while the head is off for milling.
2) dual exhaust outlets on engine. (Not headers, either Dutra duals, or modified stock manifold with dual outlets like Memikes.) single or dual pipes to the rear (your preferance).

PS: Best "bang for the buck" is increasing compression. There is no down side (within limits). It helps power and economy, both.
Distributor recurve should be done, after the last mod you do, as each mod, can require a differt timing curve.
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How much would I tell the shop to mill from the head? Same with the cam or are there standard values? And when you say pocket porting, is that what everyone refers to as just porting? Thanks for all the help.
 
There is no amount to mill off the head. Tell the machine shop to cc the head and shoot for as high of a compression ratio as you can run on 87 octane fuel with whatever cam you use. Also its better to mill the block vs. The head so that you can retain some possibility of quench.

Al you need for your exhaust is a manifold with a gasket match port job for exhaust. Run 2-1/4" single and you withh be fine.

Unless you run a four barrel. Then do some form of dual manifolds either dutra duals or your own home brewed setup. Use a y-pipe and run 2-1/2" single from there.
 
/6 Matt said:
There is no amount to mill off the head. Tell the machine shop to cc the head and shoot for as high of a compression ratio as you can run on 87 octane fuel with whatever cam you use. Also its better to mill the block vs. The head so that you can retain some possibility of quench.

Al you need for your exhaust is a manifold with a gasket match port job for exhaust. Run 2-1/4" single and you withh be fine.

Unless you run a four barrel. Then do some form of dual manifolds either dutra duals or your own home brewed setup. Use a y-pipe and run 2-1/2" single from there.
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close matt... slant sixes seem to be anywhere from .125-.210 in the hole. To get quench you have to be within .065 or closer (less in the hole).

so on a slant with a .021 (stock gasket) or .037 (felpro) you gonna have to get it zero deck minimum if not out of the hole to achieve true quench.

FYI :toothy10:
 
/6 Matt said:
There is no amount to mill off the head. Tell the machine shop to cc the head and shoot for as high of a compression ratio as you can run on 87 octane fuel with whatever cam you use. Also its better to mill the block vs. The head so that you can retain some possibility of quench.
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I get the impression, this is sort of a budget build. If so milling the deck is not the way to go. As for quench, it is very difficult to achive in a slant six, for the reasons stated by 805moparkid.To get quence in a slant six, requires custom pistons. I would suggest milling the head to achive about 9 to one compression ratio (measurements required). I have a 170 at 9.5 and the mildest mopar performance cam (just a little more then stock), it needs 93 octane. If you are doing a complete engine build, you can do the deck, but it would not be cost effective on a "budget" hop up.

Pocket porting refers to blending the area in the "bowl" under the valve. No need to go crazy here, for your type of build. Just smooth the sharp edges
 
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