i just removed a pair of super stock springs from a 67 fastback barracuda.
instead of the numbers being 002/003
both are 003
whats up?
eddie
instead of the numbers being 002/003
both are 003
whats up?
eddie
super stock springs 002/003
- Thread starter barracudakid
- Start date
-
Someone purchased 2 left side (003) springs so it sits level....
GeorgeH
Well-Known Member
Some use the same part # on both sides so the car sits level, but I believe it's normally the right side they use and those are left side.
Just a matter of how high you want the car to sit.
Will they function ok
Drag racing?
Drag racing?
The S/S springs are an effective way to help control axle wrap up and provide you with the ability your looking for in drag racing.
S/S springs have been used in some pretty quick cars. A buddy of mine ran high 9's in a big block all steel (except hood) Dart with those springs.
While currently, there are more effective methods (for the rear end) to run that quick, a lot depends on the cars actual weight, balance, set up and power. As to when the limit of the springs occur.
S/S springs have been used in some pretty quick cars. A buddy of mine ran high 9's in a big block all steel (except hood) Dart with those springs.
While currently, there are more effective methods (for the rear end) to run that quick, a lot depends on the cars actual weight, balance, set up and power. As to when the limit of the springs occur.
The 002 spring has a stronger arch, and is used on the passenger side! Sounds like they wimped out on the real reason to have SS springs in the first place!!
GeorgeH
Well-Known Member
002 should have the extra forward facing half leaf
The numbers are clear
003
Will they work ok or
Will having 2 lefts
Be a problem
003
Will they work ok or
Will having 2 lefts
Be a problem
They'll work just fine for just using them as leaf springs! If you're going racing, it would be a wise choice to use the 002/003 setup, but otherwise they will work just fine!
If the car pulls one way.... then you know you need the other spring.
Thanks
For all input
For all input
buck351
Well-Known Member
Years ago I tried SS springs for my spring wrap problem on my 67 GTS with a manual trans thinking it may help. In my case I had no difference from the original springs. Stock snubber was not doing it's job even after addressing that still had what felt like clutch chatter but was spring wrap. Ended up going back to stock springs to get rid of the truck like ride and clamping the springs with actually helped along with an adjustable snubber. Caltracs would have done the job but you loose the stock look and ground clearance.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I`d try them w/ a pinion snubber, unless your putting out a huge amount of h.p. w/ a bunch of hook, they`ll work fine !
buck351
Well-Known Member
You know it took me years to figure out what was going on. I'm pretty sure I had an adjustable snubber when I had the SS springs on. it still wrapped. It wraps then the car moves and the springs snap back so you would get what in the car felt like clutch chatter but it would shake the whole car. It could get so bad the wheels would hop. Now a snubber at 1" from floor keeps it from getting really bad and adding a clamp on the front of the stock springs helped too. The only time it was an issue is when you were letting the clutch out and increasing the power. Won't do it if you took off easy or slipped the clutch a lot with higher rpms. I looked into Caltracts which would definitely take care of it but I didn't like the low ground clearance with them. I still have the SS springs. I even got the front spring brackets that had extra holes to helped compensate for the extra lift of the SS springs. I suppose I could try them again. I thought they wouldn't wrap like the stock springs and was surprised they when they did. Not a lot of HP but always had good traction and 383 has good low end torque combined with a manual trans instead of an automatic that keeps a more constant torque out to the rear end.
Stupid question, did you have drag shocks on the car then.
History.... Mr. 4 speed even said that "They" would just simply "Walk the cars out most times."
Just how much power are we talking about from the engine.
History.... Mr. 4 speed even said that "They" would just simply "Walk the cars out most times."
Just how much power are we talking about from the engine.
68dodge
Well-Known Member
If you are going to race with the SS springs, you should have drag shocks and no pinion snubber. The SS springs are design to let the car lift in back and raise the front as you leave the starting line. They also help to keep the car level side to side in the rear. I did some testing years ago with different shocks, the mopar drag shocks were one of them, and they would not let the springs work.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2008
- Messages
- 272
- Reaction score
- 146
Which Drag shock works good if the original poster doesnt mind me asking?
68dodge
Well-Known Member
I use Competition Engineering adjustable shocks. I not saying there the best, but they are a good price and work for my set up.
go for it
good info
good info
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2008
- Messages
- 272
- Reaction score
- 146
This one? (I think its the only one)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2735/overview/year/1972/make/dodge/model/dart
buck351
Well-Known Member
Well back when I was first trying the SS springs the engine had a Crane fireball cam, single plane intake and roads lifters. Don't know actual Hp. Later when car was restored the engine was close to stock and in this state with the SS springs an adjustable snubber I tried the longer travel Mopar shocks that were recommended to be used with the SS springs before switching back to stock springs with regular shocks.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I've got a pair of the same-side 2800lbs SS springs on both my '68 3700lbs A-Body and '70 3750lbs E-Body. The first is 510hp stroked Magnum w 4sp OD auto & 3700 stall lock-up converter & 3.91's w 28" tall Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. That car also has a 1" lowering block and correctly adjusted slapper bars. The '70 is a 700+hp RB w Passon 5 speed and 3.73's with 325/50-15 Nitto drag radials. Both these cars ride better, corner better and launch harder than any other rear suspension set-up I have tried in over 35 years. Both cars sit level, as they are driven hard on the open road.
I am about to replace out the passenger side rear spring with a matching, fresh spring on the '70 because the front segment bent due to spring wrap without a traction device. The car began to sit noticeably lower on the passenger side due to the greater forces at work when the car plants on launch. The very reason the springs were designed to have an extra half leaf on that side.
This time I will be installing a set of properly adjusted slapper bars on that car too. This prevented the bending of the front segment on my '68 for several years now, dramatically improved the traction and only slightly stiffened the ride quality. I paint them satin black to make them less visible, so I don't hear the mis-information about how they don't work on Mopars. Oddly, the Hellcat owner I pulled 3 car lengths on out of the hole at Spring Fling's Track day never mentioned that they don't work on Mopars.
These lighter 2800lbs springs were wrapping on my '68 until I installed slapper bars on it too. I put them on in the first week of driving the car, and will never take them off. They work so well once properly adjusted its hard to believe. I tried a pinion snubber, but the ride was so harsh, the car was unusable on anything but a smooth track. The same thing with Caltracs. Those are nothing short of brutal on the street, but work awesome on a smooth track.
Dr. Diff is the man who originally suggested I try the 2800lbs, same-side SS springs on these heavy cars, or I never would have discovered what I found to be the best rear suspension set-up I ever experienced.
I do use high-quality, correct length shocks on both cars and lube all the pivot points with synthetic disc brake grease to dramatically reduce sticktion in the suspension, (rubber bushings on springs and shocks).
68dodge
Well-Known Member
For the rear, you need to measure the shock size you need with the car jacked up, with the axle hanging done. Then measure the size with the car on the ground. I will look and see if I still have the shock numbers.
Last edited:
buck351
Well-Known Member
Interesting read.
-
