super stock springs 002/003

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jbc426 said:
I've got a pair of the same-side 2800lbs SS springs on both my '68 3700lbs A-Body and '70 3750lbs E-Body. The first is 510hp stroked Magnum w 4sp OD auto & 3700 stall lock-up converter & 3.91's w 28" tall Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. That car also has a 1" lowering block and correctly adjusted slapper bars. The '70 is a 700+hp RB w Passon 5 speed and 3.73's with 325/50-15 Nitto drag radials. Both these cars ride better, corner better and launch harder than any other rear suspension set-up I have tried in over 35 years. Both cars sit level, as they are driven hard on the open road.

I am about to replace out the passenger side rear spring with a matching, fresh spring on the '70 because the front segment bent due to spring wrap without a traction device. The car began to sit noticeably lower on the passenger side due to the greater forces at work when the car plants on launch. The very reason the springs were designed to have an extra half leaf on that side.

This time I will be installing a set of properly adjusted slapper bars on that car too. This prevented the bending of the front segment on my '68 for several years now, dramatically improved the traction and only slightly stiffened the ride quality. I paint them satin black to make them less visible, so I don't hear the mis-information about how they don't work on Mopars. Oddly, the Hellcat owner I pulled 3 car lengths on out of the hole at Spring Fling's Track day never mentioned that they don't work on Mopars.

These lighter 2800lbs springs were wrapping on my '68 until I installed slapper bars on it too. I put them on in the first week of driving the car, and will never take them off. They work so well once properly adjusted its hard to believe. I tried a pinion snubber, but the ride was so harsh, the car was unusable on anything but a smooth track. The same thing with Caltracs. Those are nothing short of brutal on the street, but work awesome on a smooth track.

Dr. Diff is the man who originally suggested I try the 2800lbs, same-side SS springs on these heavy cars, or I never would have discovered what I found to be the best rear suspension set-up I ever experienced.

I do use high-quality, correct length shocks on both cars and lube all the pivot points with synthetic disc brake grease to dramatically reduce sticktion in the suspension, (rubber bushings on springs and shocks).

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jbc426 said:
I've got a pair of the same-side 2800lbs SS springs on both my '68 3700lbs A-Body and '70 3750lbs E-Body. The first is 510hp stroked Magnum w 4sp OD auto & 3700 stall lock-up converter & 3.91's w 28" tall Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. That car also has a 1" lowering block and correctly adjusted slapper bars. The '70 is a 700+hp RB w Passon 5 speed and 3.73's with 325/50-15 Nitto drag radials. Both these cars ride better, corner better and launch harder than any other rear suspension set-up I have tried in over 35 years. Both cars sit level, as they are driven hard on the open road.

I am about to replace out the passenger side rear spring with a matching, fresh spring on the '70 because the front segment bent due to spring wrap without a traction device. The car began to sit noticeably lower on the passenger side due to the greater forces at work when the car plants on launch. The very reason the springs were designed to have an extra half leaf on that side.

This time I will be installing a set of properly adjusted slapper bars on that car too. This prevented the bending of the front segment on my '68 for several years now, dramatically improved the traction and only slightly stiffened the ride quality. I paint them satin black to make them less visible, so I don't hear the mis-information about how they don't work on Mopars. Oddly, the Hellcat owner I pulled 3 car lengths on out of the hole at Spring Fling's Track day never mentioned that they don't work on Mopars.

These lighter 2800lbs springs were wrapping on my '68 until I installed slapper bars on it too. I put them on in the first week of driving the car, and will never take them off. They work so well once properly adjusted its hard to believe. I tried a pinion snubber, but the ride was so harsh, the car was unusable on anything but a smooth track. The same thing with Caltracs. Those are nothing short of brutal on the street, but work awesome on a smooth track.

Dr. Diff is the man who originally suggested I try the 2800lbs, same-side SS springs on these heavy cars, or I never would have discovered what I found to be the best rear suspension set-up I ever experienced.

I do use high-quality, correct length shocks on both cars and lube all the pivot points with synthetic disc brake grease to dramatically reduce sticktion in the suspension, (rubber bushings on springs and shocks).

View attachment 1715025769

View attachment 1715025770

View attachment 1715025771
Click to expand...
JBC426,

I spoke with Dr. Diff today about doing the same thing with my 70 challenger for the rear suspension. Can you tell me what same side you used for your springs (driver or passenger)?. Also, I'd like to try the slapper bar setup, so the timing of your post and experience on your Cuda is great. Can you also provide what brand slapper bars you are using on the Cuda and rear shocks?

Lastly, he mentioned that the E Body rear shackle required a different size shackle bushing when using the A Body SS springs with the E Body shackles. Do you recall what size bushing you used or did you use A Body shackles on the Cuda?

Thanks Chris G
 
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Can someone tell me where I can find the 002 or 003 number on the springs?

The previous owner of the car I bought last fall told me he put "super stock" springs on it. When I asked him what was different about the SS springs, he told me he didn't know and when looking for a used set to replace the sagging originals he came across them at a good price.

So now that I know what they're for, it seems a little silly to have these on a Slant 6 car. The car sits fairly level, so maybe they're both the 003's? I'll take a picture of the back of the car when I get home. I'd kind of like to know what's really in there. Maybe they're not even SS after all.
 
FWIW, the springs level out after a while. A few years and useage and the springs calm down in height.

Go to espo.com for springs.
 
Then you have American made springs.
Congrats.
If you had Mexican springs, you would have hit the agreed button.
:rofl:
 
rumblefish360 said:
Screw the slapper bars!
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Is this bar bashing statement based on your experience or what the some blissfully ignorant rube claimed about them not working on Mopars?

I get the sentiment, but truth be told most slapper bars I've ever seen installed on any car were not adjusted properly and the snubber was 4" to 6" or more from the bottom of the front spring eye. They are worthless adjusted like that. I have to cut and weld the universal ones to work on Mopars, as no one makes bolt on slapper bars that bolt right on out of the box to fit Mopars.

Once properly adjusted, they allow the car to hook incredibly hard. Just ask the owner of this Hellcat that I pulled 3 car lengths out of the hole.

JohnRace2 (Large).jpg


slapper bar 2.JPG
 
jbc426 said:
Is this bar bashing statement based on your experience or what the some blissfully ignorant rube claimed about them not working on Mopars?
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It’s not bar bashing.

I get the sentiment, but truth be told most slapper bars I've ever seen installed on any car were not adjusted properly and the snubber was 4" to 6" or more from the bottom of the front spring eye. They are worthless adjusted like that. I have to cut and weld the universal ones to work on Mopars, as no one makes bolt on slapper bars that bolt right on out of the box to fit Mopars.
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Exactly! Slapper bars are a 1 size fits all part.
But your statement also make sure look like a hypocrite. At least that’s the sentiment I get.
Please clarify your position.
LMAO! Take it lightly
Once properly adjusted, they allow the car to hook incredibly hard. Just ask the owner of this Hellcat that I pulled 3 car lengths out of the hole.
Click to expand...
**** the hell cat owner and provide a video.
Everyone loves a video!
 
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jbc426 said:
Is this bar bashing statement based on your experience or what the some blissfully ignorant rube claimed about them not working on Mopars?

I get the sentiment, but truth be told most slapper bars I've ever seen installed on any car were not adjusted properly and the snubber was 4" to 6" or more from the bottom of the front spring eye. They are worthless adjusted like that. I have to cut and weld the universal ones to work on Mopars, as no one makes bolt on slapper bars that bolt right on out of the box to fit Mopars.

Once properly adjusted, they allow the car to hook incredibly hard. Just ask the owner of this Hellcat that I pulled 3 car lengths out of the hole.

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Nothing wrong with slapper bars, except your not suppose to use them with S/S Springs. As I mentioned early in this tread, S/S springs are made to control the axle, just like slapper bars, but they are also made to help lift the front and back of the car to plant the rear tires. If your having traction problems with S/S springs, you need to look into changing your shocks. You have to make sure your rear shocks are long enough and adjustable.
Now on slapper bars, they need to be made to hit the front eye of the leaf spring to work right.
 
69dodge, I haven’t had a problem with the snubber except it’s ajustabilty. I like that one that a screw to adjust the height.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Yep, better have long rear shocks with the SS spring's or the thing will hop like the Easter bunny.
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So that explains what happened to the shock plates. Someone cut the studs off and welded on a bracket and a bolt.
IMG_0256.JPG

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Here's how the back of the car sits
IMG_0254.JPG
 
rumblefish360 said:
69dodge, I haven’t had a problem with the snubber except it’s ajustabilty. I like that one that a screw to adjust the height.
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I do not use a snubber. Car lifts when I come off the line, so it would not work anyway.

100_1539.JPG
 
rumblefish360 said:
It’s not bar bashing.


Exactly! Slapper bars are a 1 size fits all part.
But your statement also make sure look like a hypocrite. At least that’s the sentiment I get.
Please clarify your position.
LMAO! Take it lightly

**** the hell cat owner and provide a video.
Everyone loves a video!
Click to expand...

I understand where the confusion comes from given the problems and lack of traction enhancement the improper application and improperly adjusted "bolt-on" bars have caused.

However, I have 2 Mopars with slapper bars on them, and both of them are running SS springs that are rated hundreds of pounds below what either car weighs. I did that at the suggestion of Dr Diff, and the cars ride very nice with the lighter springs. However, I bent the front spring segment due to spring wrap without the slapper bars. That's why I experimented with slapper bars, and realized I needed to modify what was available to properly fit my Mopars.

It works incredibly well, but that flies in the face of decades mis-information out there saying the way they tried the bolt-on slapper bars proved they don't belong on Mopars. I call BS. They just didn't do it right.
 
jbc426 said:
I understand where the confusion comes from given the problems and lack of traction enhancement the improper application and improperly adjusted "bolt-on" bars have caused.

However, I have 2 Mopars with slapper bars on them, and both of them are running SS springs that are rated hundreds of pounds below what either car weighs. I did that at the suggestion of Dr Diff, and the cars ride very nice with the lighter springs. However, I bent the front spring segment due to spring wrap without the slapper bars. That's why I experimented with slapper bars, and realized I needed to modify what was available to properly fit my Mopars.

It works incredibly well, but that flies in the face of decades mis-information out there saying the way they tried the bolt-on slapper bars proved they don't belong on Mopars. I call BS. They just didn't do it right.
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I guess you where told wrong on the S/S springs. You will have problems like that. Wrong springs for the weight of your car.
 
68dodge said:
I guess you where told wrong on the S/S springs. You will have problems like that. Wrong springs for the weight of your car.
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No, no. running the lighter springs works for me, and the slapper bars took care of the spring wrap issue, which is what they are designed to do. The rear of the car lifts and plants the tires hard.

I've tried the 3700lbs springs several decades ago. The car rode like a 1 ton pick-up with no weight in the bed. It was very harsh on the open roads and city streets. Probably good for a track only car on a smooth track, but unlivable on the street. I drive my cars on the open roads and city streets almost daily.

The combination of lighter SS springs and slapper bars give a smooth compliant ride on the open road & city streets, and they hook up much better than the 3700lbs springs ever did.
 
Jbc426, that’s exactly it. Wrong size or actually length of the bar puts the snubber in a crappy spot.
 
68dodge said:
I do not use a snubber. Car lifts when I come off the line, so it would not work anyway.

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The snow but would be used after the head and changing gears. Even more so if the springs are getting week. And like you said since you have separation everything is working.
By the way, nice ride!
 
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