Super Stocks Springs have i reached the limit?

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Thanks for your input, radials are great, i pickup ET and they last a lot longer.

Yea, I went to radials on my car several years back and picked up like 1/2 a tenth.
That said, if I was bracket racing on leafs I would be all about a bias tire. WAY more forgiving. Way easier to get to work.
I put a Mickey radial on my old Duster I mentioned upthread and it went up in smoke no matter foot or brake. Put the bias tires back on after 1 night of trying to make the radial work on a very good track.
 
I ran S/S springs for many years on my Dart it actually ran its best 60 ft and E.T. on them : 10.40 with a 1.40 60 ft. I switched to Cal Tracs , their mono leaf springs and rear ( Rancho 9 way adjustable ) shocks awhile ago . My 60 fts became more consistent . I tried the Calvert adjustable front shocks and for some reason my car didn't like them as my 60 ft consistency dropped , I went back to my ancient Koni SPA 1 shocks and they have been fine. Although my car is now slowed down to run 11.50s it is very consistent in 60 ft. recently on 6 runs it was 1.59 in 60 ft ( deep staged ) so 1.49 shallow in both lanes . I only leave at 2,000 rpm ( foot braking ) and run a 4.30 gear with a Hoosier drag radial at 18 psi .
 
I ran S/S springs for many years on my Dart it actually ran its best 60 ft and E.T. on them : 10.40 with a 1.40 60 ft. I switched to Cal Tracs , their mono leaf springs and rear ( Rancho 9 way adjustable ) shocks awhile ago . My 60 fts became more consistent . I tried the Calvert adjustable front shocks and for some reason my car didn't like them as my 60 ft consistency dropped , I went back to my ancient Koni SPA 1 shocks and they have been fine. Although my car is now slowed down to run 11.50s it is very consistent in 60 ft. recently on 6 runs it was 1.59 in 60 ft ( deep staged ) so 1.49 shallow in both lanes . I only leave at 2,000 rpm ( foot braking ) and run a 4.30 gear with a Hoosier drag radial at 18 psi .

Yea, if the car doesn’t spin, upgrading to most any other rear suspension isn’t gonna make the car’s incrementals any better.
I have actually seen guys go from 002/003 Mopar leafs to caltracs to supposedly improve 60 foot times and fight and chase hook trying to get them to duplicate what it was already doing previously.
Like the old saying goes, if it don’t stink, don’t stir it…lol
 
I'm digging this banter, thank you guys.:popcorn:
I'm at 1.48 60' with SS Springs "MP" Long un-adjustable shocks. (11.10 @118)
I may start a different thread so I don't take away from this one - I'm thinking of getting adjustable rear shocks.
 
The only issues I had with 002/003 leafs was keeping the car off the bumper using the transbrake.
It’s hard to use sissy bars with super stock springs because you can’t get them high enough. So then you play with leave rpm, limiters( rubber bumpers) on the front, and torsion bar adjustments( which was effective for me) raise them up and I could put it on the bumper every pass. Gets old in a hurry, looking at nothing but the buttons in the headliner
This old picture, at Mopar event at Norwalk was such a pass. Buddy happened to be sitting in the stands with a video recorder to take this one. I had cranked up the bars a hair too far..oops
Those leafs are bowed under there like a kids bow and arrow :lol:

IMG_0112.jpeg

you can see the 60 foot timer, she liked to stay up like that about 150 feet out, handful in a 9 sec ride
Hardest thing getting used to is keep your foot through the floorboard
I think the single biggest positive upgrade I ever did to that car was taking the 8 inch wheels off and swapping on 10’s. I had already done that by the time this picture was taken
 
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Yea, if the car doesn’t spin, upgrading to most any other rear suspension isn’t gonna make the car’s incrementals any better.
I have actually seen guys go from 002/003 Mopar leafs to caltracs to supposedly improve 60 foot times and fight and chase hook trying to get them to duplicate what it was already doing previously.
Like the old saying goes, if it don’t stink, don’t stir it…lol


That’s just not true. In fact it’s wrong.

To assume every Chrysler car out there wants the IC at the front spring mount is short sighted.

I’ll say it. I would quit racing if I had to go back to SS springs. They limit so much it’s a crying shame guys spend a dime on **** like that.

To that end, I already said the OP need DA shocks regardless of his rear suspension.

It’s 2025 and the fact that Calvert is still selling SA shocks shows what marketing does.
 
That’s just not true. In fact it’s wrong.

To assume every Chrysler car out there wants the IC at the front spring mount is short sighted.

I’ll say it. I would quit racing if I had to go back to SS springs. They limit so much it’s a crying shame guys spend a dime on **** like that.

To that end, I already said the OP need DA shocks regardless of his rear suspension.

It’s 2025 and the fact that Calvert is still selling SA shocks shows what marketing does.
You’re correct to a point.
What you’re forgetting is there are classes that require leafs. I have ladder bars on mine, they are better, no doubt. Car drives like a Caddy.
Class racers and such are obviously going to use a Calvert deal over a super stock spring. They are lighter and offer more adjustability, no doubt. Better mousetrap, still not optimal, obviously. Just rules mandated.
I wanted to race Muscle street in NMCA with mine, it required leafs, so even though my car fit nicely otherwise, they wouldn’t give me a exemption.
Guys, if given the choice will always pick Calvert over s/s springs running NHRA stockers.Mopar FAST class stuff requires leafs too.
My point is there are lots of guys who have issues getting them to work.
The Duster I had wouldnt have went any faster on Caltracks, it dead hooked everywhere. With the rear overhang on A bodies, it’s a snap.
And anybody who knew that car knew it was ultra consistent, way better than the driver, and back then I could drive..lol
This whole thing goes back to the OP wondering if a 10.20 or 30 car or what his car runs has exceeded leafs. It hasn’t, they will be consistent going much faster. It’s just a matter of setup. Obviously a small radial is going to make it way tougher. I couldn’t get my Duster to work on those.
But I didn’t need the extra few hundreds. I index and bracket raced it.
 
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My avatar car has split mono Calverts and the CalTrac bars. It's obviously not as fast as the OPS (11.10@119, 1.49 60' best). But it hooks consistently with bias slicks.

If for no other reason than the weight savings, wouldn't the split mono's be better for the OP? I can't factually state the difference as I've not weighed both. But I believe it is substantial - like 50-75#'s savings (maybe someone on here knows?). And with the adjustability of the bars, it seems like this would be a good route for a decent amount of coin. Consistency and et - better in both arenas.
 
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My avatar car has split mono Calverts and the CalTrac bars. It's obviously not as fast as the OPS (11.10@119, 1.49 60' best). But it hooks consistently with bias slicks.

If for no other reason than the weight savings, wouldn't the split mono's be better for the OP? I can't factually state the difference as I've not weighed both. But I believe it is substantial - like 50-75#'s savings (maybe someone on here knows?). And with the adjustability of the bars, it seems like this would be a good route for a decent amount of coin. Consistency and et - better in both arenas.
FWIW-I weighed my old leafs at 72 lbs (XHD setup of some kind) and the Calvert monos at 48 lbs (they’re pretty thick steel). Pinion snubber was 5 lbs and the caltracs were 15 lbs. So savings was only 16 lbs for the setup change. Can’t speak for the SS, they may be a little heavier with more length to get the arch they have. I got way better hook and consistency (but compare the two systems and it’s pretty obvious why). Was only mid 11s with it, so power is waaayyyy less than OP.
 
A lot of the weight for the S/S springs are which ones you have. The heavier rated weight springs have more leafs.
 
Most anyone with an A body will/ would have run the 002/003 springs
Weren't the 002/003 springs recommended for an A-body with a manual transmission in the old DC book?
I've used them since 1985 so have just gone along with what I was told worked best.
 
Weren't the 002/003 springs recommended for an A-body with a manual transmission in the old DC book?
I've used them since 1985 so have just gone along with what I was told worked best.

I wasn’t aware there was anything other than 002/003 for A body
 
FWIW-I weighed my old leafs at 72 lbs (XHD setup of some kind) and the Calvert monos at 48 lbs (they’re pretty thick steel). Pinion snubber was 5 lbs and the caltracs were 15 lbs. So savings was only 16 lbs for the setup change. Can’t speak for the SS, they may be a little heavier with more length to get the arch they have. I got way better hook and consistency (but compare the two systems and it’s pretty obvious why). Was only mid 11s with it, so power is waaayyyy less than OP.
Curious...were these split mono's or straight single mono's?
 
The split mono. I remember seeing the single mono composite springs a while ago, which would be super light! Was that what you were referring to?
No, I was referring to the standard Calvert split mono springs simply because that is what I have.

Now we just need someone to weigh some 002/003 SS springs to compare to your measurements for these Calverts!!
 
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No, I was referring to split mono simply because that is what I have.

Now we just need someone to weigh some 002/003 SS springs!!
I have a new set in the garage, I can weigh them tomorrow.
 
Most anyone with an A body will/ would have run the 002/003 springs
True, but….
I wasn’t aware there was anything other than 002/003 for A body
There is a set lighter. I have them now and not yet run the car. P4120863/4 for a 2800lbs. car.

All S/S springs will fit the A body but some get listed for B body cars. More leafs on them. Heavier rating.

I have a set of the P3690460/1 springs on my ‘79 B body Magnum. They required longer front hangers. They have a
image.jpg
image.jpg
Total stink bug look. I used 2” lowering blocks and the ride looks stock. Will swap them out for less of a drop later.
 
True, but….

There is a set lighter. I have them now and not yet run the car. P4120863/4 for a 2800lbs. car.

All S/S springs will fit the A body but some get listed for B body cars. More leafs on them. Heavier rating.

I have a set of the P3690460/1 springs on my ‘79 B body Magnum. They required longer front hangers. They have a View attachment 1716336435View attachment 1716336443Total stink bug look. I used 2” lowering blocks and the ride looks stock. Will swap them out for less of a drop later.
Thanks for that. Now that you point that out I remember those lighter springs.
I have never had anything they would work on, so had forgotten about them.
Learn stuff on here all the time
 
My ‘71 Duster was a slant car with manual drums and steering. Now it lacks interior and will see the front fiberglassed. As the Reggie says, it (was) 2990lbs.
 
True, but….

There is a set lighter. I have them now and not yet run the car. P4120863/4 for a 2800lbs. car.

All S/S springs will fit the A body but some get listed for B body cars. More leafs on them. Heavier rating.

I have a set of the P3690460/1 springs on my ‘79 B body Magnum. They required longer front hangers. They have a View attachment 1716336435View attachment 1716336443Total stink bug look. I used 2” lowering blocks and the ride looks stock. Will swap them out for less of a drop later.
I have those 454/455 3800# auto springs on my 69 Charger. Them buggers are HEAVY!! WAY more than the split mono Calverts I have on the avatar Demon.
 
I been having some issues with the new engine combo and traction, if i foot brake it seems to be ok, most of the time, but when i try and use the 2 step, it will start and pick up the front wheels and then come right back down and it feels like it is spinning the tires. i am at 1.36 sixty foot, have i reach the limit with the springs? i have Calvert shocks all the way around. Thanks
If you're running S/S springs you're still good to go. I ran them on a 69 GTS that I ran 10.7s with. What helped was replacing the factory pinion snubber with an adjustable one. It would pull the front end about 6-8".
 
Here is a question for you and I don’t think I’ve seen an answer yes. How old are the springs and How heavy is the car? I have sold well over a hundred pairs of those springs in the past and have gotten tons of feedback from follow racers. On a heavy car (3500lbs and over) I would see mid 10sec cars start to slow down after 250-300 passes. NOS and trans brake cars a little sooner.

The older springs…springs built in the 2001+/- and older would last longer than the current springs.

Removing and playing with the clamps did change things around. More clamps on the front and less clamps on the rear would plant the tire more but soften up the hit.

Last but not least a fun fact for you all. When these springs were being designed and made for the Super Stock Hemi Dart and Cudas. The leaf spring pads on the diff were rotated different degrees from left to right. One side the pad was set 2 degrees down and the other side was set at 6 degrees down. This kept the springs from being preloaded when bolting them on the car.
 
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