Sure grip housing... send it?

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VSTwister

VSTwister

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This is interesting...sure grip I got years ago, obviously something went bad in the carrier it was in. Going to rebuild it and put it in this 741 open I have. Then going my car. Moderate power...400hp. Just housing is chewed up, I figure it'll be fine... thoughts?

Thanks.

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Lol the way you worded your response... I'm wondering if you're being sarcastic.

Just getting thoughts that I might not be thinking of. Yeah the housing in that area is chewed up on the surface but for what I'm using it for, and rebuilding it too, I was ok with it.
 
It's a slight pain but you learn a lot doing it yourself. I had to make a few tools along the way. Best tip I can share is to use a wheel/tire/axle as a stand to work on the diff. That made things waaay easier than trying to wrestle with the pig on the floor or workbench
 
VSTwister said:
And if anyone has any tips before I get started, this is my first rodeo for a rear end build. Thanks.
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Take your time, have a clean and "happy" work space, ideally a jig or at least a big table vise to hold the pumpkin for torquing bolts. Are you changing the ring and pinion? For me getting the pinion depth right is the biggest pain, big time-saver is to gradually sand/grind the ID of an old outer pinion bearing so it slides on and off the pinion by hand for checking until you get the shim stack right. I think there are some how-to articles on here on rebuilding 3rd-members.
 
That's normally caused by one thing. The pinion nut backing off and it's pretty common. I've chucked a few up in a lathe before and turned them out just to make um "look nice" again, but it's totally unnecessary. Let her rip.
 
Odd, one very similarly worn just appeared on this site like a week ago. The consensus then was 'run it!'.

Most of the force will be on the ring gear side. I would run it, especially on a street car.
 
I took a chance and let a guy who supposedly knew what he was doing build this.. I bought all Timken bearings, races. Yukon aggressive clutches...
This was the carnage after said guy didn't torque pinion nut.. I was pi$$ed. That sure grip was perfect in fact I built it myself, it was the only part of the 3rd member built right.

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mderoy340 said:
check the ring gear mounting surface runout with a dial indicator and if it's good I'd run it.
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I have the shop manual, it says to do this before taking apart. Except the back side of the ring gear doesn't have a flat square surface to put the dial indicator on, just that angled part?

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Big.J.007 said:
I took a chance and let a guy who supposedly knew what he was doing build this.. I bought all Timken bearings, races. Yukon aggressive clutches...
This was the carnage after said guy didn't torque pinion nut.. I was pi$$ed. That sure grip was perfect in fact I built it myself, it was the only part of the 3rd member built right.

Mine is a fair bit deeper than the marks on yours.
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MopaR&D said:
Take your time, have a clean and "happy" work space, ideally a jig or at least a big table vise to hold the pumpkin for torquing bolts. Are you changing the ring and pinion? For me getting the pinion depth right is the biggest pain, big time-saver is to gradually sand/grind the ID of an old outer pinion bearing so it slides on and off the pinion by hand for checking until you get the shim stack right. I think there are some how-to articles on here on rebuilding 3rd-members.
Click to expand...
No I'm not. Just putting in new clutches in the SG, then installing into the open carrier. So no pinion depth adjustment necessary?

I'll have to look for the how to. I think it'll be best if I read / watch some info and videos before I tear into it.

Thanks
 
VSTwister said:
I have the shop manual, it says to do this before taking apart. Except the back side of the ring gear doesn't have a flat square surface to put the dial indicator on, just that angled part?

View attachment 1716303240
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In post one the ring gear is off. Install the carrier without the ring gear installed and set the carrier bearing preload. Mount up a dial indicator and check the runout. I believe max is .004 but refer to the FSM. If it's out of spec it screws up the Backlash when you check that. You tube has some videos from Toyota Factory rep setting up a removable type pumpkin.
 
VSTwister said:
No I'm not. Just putting in new clutches in the SG, then installing into the open carrier. So no pinion depth adjustment necessary?

I'll have to look for the how to. I think it'll be best if I read / watch some info and videos before I tear into it.

Thanks
Click to expand...

That's easy then. Just need to put fresh clutches in "new" diff, remove old open diff from 3rd member, swap ring gear to new diff, reinstall. You'll probably want to reset the backlash and check the mesh pattern but pinion depth won't be changed since you won't be touching the pinion gear.
 
mderoy340 said:
In post one the ring gear is off. Install the carrier without the ring gear installed and set the carrier bearing preload. Mount up a dial indicator and check the runout. I believe max is .004 but refer to the FSM. If it's out of spec it screws up the Backlash when you check that. You tube has some videos from Toyota Factory rep setting up a removable type pumpkin.
Click to expand...


Carrier bearing preload on an 8 3/4” is done 'at the same time' as backlash since it uses threaded adjusters instead of shims (score 1 for Chrysler engineering!). Just make sure final adjustment is to tighten both adjusters as much as possible then install locking tabs and torque carrier main cap bolts to spec.
 
Go back and read post #12 !

This is no big deal,,,,,pinion nut backed off and marked the carrier .
Nothing is warped,,,,,nothing is broken .
Clean the booger marks if you want,,,,or leave them,,,it will run just the same .

Put on your ring gear,,,,and set the back lash,,,,easy as pie .
It’s not a Saturn 5 rocket,,,,just a 8 3/4 sure grip .

Tommy
 
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