Sure grip

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edbux

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I have a 742 3rd member, 3.23 and clutch type sure grip. It's been sitting in the garage for almost 2 years. Being bored today, I decided to install it. Before installing it, I slipped...rather tried to slip the axles in. On one side it appears that the two splines in the sure grip are slightly off, just enough to stop the axle from going past the first set of splines. First, is this an indicator there are issues with the unit? Second, how can I realign them. I attempted to separate the sure grip and them bolts won't budge. There is an "LE" stamped on the heads of the bolts, left handed thread? The ring gear bolts have an "L" stamped on them and I know from the FSM they are left hand.

Thanks
 
edbux said:
I have a 742 3rd member, 3.23 and clutch type sure grip. It's been sitting in the garage for almost 2 years. Being bored today, I decided to install it. Before installing it, I slipped...rather tried to slip the axles in. On one side it appears that the two splines in the sure grip are slightly off, just enough to stop the axle from going past the first set of splines. First, is this an indicator there are issues with the unit? Second, how can I realign them. I attempted to separate the sure grip and them bolts won't budge. There is an "LE" stamped on the heads of the bolts, left handed thread? The ring gear bolts have an "L" stamped on them and I know from the FSM they are left hand.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes they are left hand ,
What I do during a rebuild or when ever there is an issues like yours is
line the sidegear and clutch splines up with the axles inplace on the bench then tighten the bolts up remove the axle{s} they will slip right in~
 
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Guess I should inspect the clutches while it is loose. Anything to look for on the clutches? Maybe I should just order a set.

Thanks again
 
edbux said:
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Guess I should inspect the clutches while it is loose. Anything to look for on the clutches? Maybe I should just order a set.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
warping and or glaze {blue and black coloring on them sure sign they are moving too much
the kits are like 80.00$ and well worth it Go to autozone /checker get a tube of the milspec additive for suregrip/positraction I forget the name a little blue tube stinks like hell but has stopped all kind of noise and other issues ~
{side note} make sure you only snug the bolts up once they disks are alighned
gently pull the axles and then finish tourqe them bolts on the bench~
Make sure you run a few figure 8's before you Hammer it!
And test out with a gnarly burnout Wink wink
it's from trans X like 8.00 for tube~
 
edbux said:
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Guess I should inspect the clutches while it is loose. Anything to look for on the clutches? Maybe I should just order a set.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

While you're at it, but only if you have the money... I put Dana 44 spider gears in mine. It eliminates having to line up the splines. Just something to ponder.
 
Got it apart, clutches looked good. I put it back together with the axles in and all looks good. Now if I want to brave the cold garage and put it back together today. I still have to drop the 3.23 open pumpkin from the rear. I've been told the Ford factory additive is the best, the Dodge dealer is closer, AutoZone is next to a good Mexican restaurant....thinkin AutoZone will win out!!

Thanks for all the replies!!
 
edbux said:
Got it apart, clutches looked good. I put it back together with the axles in and all looks good. Now if I want to brave the cold garage and put it back together today. I still have to drop the 3.23 open pumpkin from the rear. I've been told the Ford factory additive is the best, the Dodge dealer is closer, AutoZone is next to a good Mexican restaurant....thinkin AutoZone will win out!!

Thanks for all the replies!!
Click to expand...
See that's what i'm talking about with mopar guys/girls We are just more efficient Me thinks......Mexican food and gear aditve in one shot..See just more efficient
 
Dotchguy said:
See that's what i'm talking about with mopar guys/girls We are just more efficient Me thinks......Mexican food and gear aditve in one shot..See just more efficient
Click to expand...

And you'll smell really bad after a dose of each. :fart:
 
regarding th 8.75 i have a open 323 geared for a a body and would like to upgrade to s/g how do i go about it and will the axles i bought for it from moser wtill work when i add sg unit thanks alan
 
bigals71dart said:
regarding th 8.75 i have a open 323 geared for a a body and would like to upgrade to s/g how do i go about it and will the axles i bought for it from moser wtill work when i add sg unit thanks alan
Click to expand...

Just need to R&R your third member and replace the open carrier with a SG unit. Same axle splines, but you will have to set the backlash. I would check the backlash before you take yours apart and reset it to the same clearance after you install the SG, if it is in tolerance to factory specs .006- .010. I also have a almost new NOS clutch type Sure Grip for sale if you need one.
 
That additive really stinks!! It makes a beastly yeast infection smell like a rose garden!
Also, I want to hear more about using Dana 44 side gears in the 8-3/4 Dana power lock differential to avoid spline misalignment!! Are there Dana 44 side gears that are other than 30-spline also?
 
SGBARRACUDA, what is your price on that NOS power lock?
 
PFogel said:
That additive really stinks!! It makes a beastly yeast infection smell like a rose garden!
Also, I want to hear more about using Dana 44 side gears in the 8-3/4 Dana power lock differential to avoid spline misalignment!! Are there Dana 44 side gears that are other than 30-spline also?
Click to expand...
PFogel: Not sure. I bought them from Randy's Ring and Pinion. Made by YUKON. I use them in the 742 diff's.

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList...Cases+&+Spider+Gears&CatType=Sub-Differential

Slick set up for the Dana Power Lock.
 
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