i found it cheaper to buy my stuff from rockauto
in one order, adjusted so all parts came from 1 wharehouse.
kits are nice but kits are expensive and you get stuff you don't need or it is spoiled by after market parts that you don't need or do not improve in anyway over what was there from the factory originaly.
if you want an anti sway bar now is the time to change to the lower arms with the sway bar mounting tabs on
moog upper bushes
moog lower bushes
upper bump stops (any)
lower bump stops (any)
moog improved strut rod bushes (follow their instructions not your workshop manual which was written year specific for the oem bush fitted that day in the factory)
i went for a three 555 lower balljoints the best of a very small pool of manufatueers for RHD cars like mine (japanese RHD mopar joints Sankei three555 make parts for moog anyway mainly for toyotas )
I went for NOS A body uppers
i needed 1 new camber bolt washer
with hindsight my upper joints were probably fine, its the lowers that wear out
my track rod ends needed doing i just purchased any with the seal i wanted and branded by a company name i recognised
with all joints i looked for a manufactuere who included the orginal style plastic-rim seals, like a taperd top hat seal rather than anything with the brand x baloon style balljoint boot set up which are throw away items, crap in this application, they don't stay put
i put big block A body torsion bars in becasue i had some
i run an anti sway bar as standard
i set my car up at factory ride height front and rear so i could actually get some positive castor
if you can get disk brake spindles for an A body that takes the standard small balljoint then you can fit hubs and standard rotors and you have a choice on calipers
the mounting centres on the spindle = 3.5 inch
any braket based slider caliper from mopar will fit but pay heed to suggestions above regarding what fits with your wheel and you need A F M body brakes not the big stuff
or you could use australian slider caliper and braket these claipers do not fit US brakets 1/16 inch different, pleanty about in Oz 99% of cars from 1969 had disk brakes but obvioulsy import for you. i had some so i used 73 australian girlock 1 piston sliders off a VJ valiant
post 73 US single pot sliders work nice same design slightly bigger sit on the short bracket onky for A body car, the one for 11 inch rotors is too long
or you could bolt the 4 pot sumitomo caliper off a 90s toyota hiliux/4runner/surf
see here
landcruiser caliper upgrade - Mopar Muscle Association UK
or you might get Jaguar XL calipers on
or you could pick up some wilwood that also use the 3.5 inch mounting
you might get datsun 240 z calipers on
any disk brake set up needs a disk brake master...for peace of mind
if you run in your new disks properly then seperate Hub/rotor brakes are fine
if you don't you can warp the rotors
cheap good bang for buck shock is a kyb gas-a-just, wait for holiday weekend, rockauto does a discount on 4
they work ok on a standard ride height car which has not had its weight changed or re distributed
better exist way better exist but not for this money
I used a nolethane Idler bush. beter than rubber not as good as a bearing conversion
NOLATHANE STEERING IDLER ARM BUSHES SUITS CHRYSLER VALIANT VC VE VF VG VH 41012 | eBay
i used a new pitman arm but discovred that the only place it wears is the rubber bush sealed into the crimped on head for the stud. if you can weld you can swap this out for nylon or aluminim drill for a zerk so you can grease it and weld the back back on if your local laws allow welding on steering parts 2 tack welds and some sealer .
worked out cheaper in $$ but more expensive in time and effort
i like the way my car handles and i don't expect to have to do this all again
all bolts that clamp bushes done up only....only.... when car at ride height and on all 4 wheels idler included, wheels straight if you use a rubber bushed one
Dave
