Swapping parts from an F-body car

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zoltan c

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I found a 77 Dodge Aspen for sale that has a rebuilt 360 (74 block) 727 trany also rebuilt and an 8 3/4 rear end with 2:71(3?) posi rear end also rebuilt by a rearend specialist shop(cost him $2000). All the work was done about 9 years ago but the vehicle hasn't been driven much since. The guy claims to have invested about $8000 into the car. He wants $3000 for the car or I might be able to swap him for my 93 Geo Tracker 4X4 plus $500-$800 cash(to me from him).

I need to know if I can use the rear end out of this F-body car, in my 65 Barracuda. The 360 engine and 727 trany will work with some mods, but I don't know about the diff. I'm also looking to use the disc brakes from this car as well as the brake master cylinder. I read here that you can use the spindles from this car for the A-body cars.
I figure that this is probably the cheapest way of getting all the parts I need for the upgrades to my Barracuda.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Zoltan
 
I used a 78 Volare Wagon for my 64 Dart Wagon. Mine was a 318/904 combo, 8 1/4 rear. I used the rear, rotors, calipers, adapters, driveshaft of course motor and trans. The 727 is going to be a real tight fit. I welded spring perches on the rear myself, and had the shaft shortened. Picked up spindles, upper control arms, front end rebuild kit, and a later master.
 
the 727 will fit, you might just have to take a hammer to some of the body seems to get it to fit,. Some car you need to, other's you don't.

the rear should fit but check to make sure that it's the 8 3/4 and not the 8 1/4. they came stock with the 8 1/4.
 
The guy said that he had gone thru a couple of 8 1/4 diffs and got an 8 3/4 from a local mopar guy and had a local diff shop rebuild it. I just don't know if it is worth spending $3000 on this car or if I should try and source the parts separately. I'm starting to get a little discouraged about all the stuff I need for this car(my Barracuda that is) and how deep I'm getting myself into this project. When I pulled out the interior I found that I have some major structural damage to the front subframe rails and the torsionbar mounts. So, the project is starting to really ad up, and now I believe that I paid too much for the car to begin with. Oh well, no turning back now! You will never get your money out of a project like this anyway, and that wasn't my goal. I fell in love with the car and now I'll spend a bunch of money on her! Hopefuly I'll be able to actually drive her in a couple of years.
 
Hmm, this makes me think about using my 77 aspen for parts for my 68 Valiant. So the rear is a bolt in? And I would need upper control arms from a 1973-1976 A-Body Disc Brake Car, Spindles, rotors, calipers from my Aspen, the bigger 73-76 Lower Ball Joints with my old lower control arms. Can I use the power master cylinder from the aspen? It is out of a 80's Diplomat.
 
Just an FYI but the rear is wider by a bit. It can be dealt with by using proper backspacing but it is wider.

ROB
 
jeeper said:
Just an FYI but the rear is wider by a bit. It can be dealt with by using proper backspacing but it is wider.

ROB
Click to expand...


I put a 68 b body wagon in a 1976 volarie years ago they are wider than A bodies
 
It lists the F body 8 1/4 being 54.340 wide flange to flange a body 8 3/4 rears being 51.400 flange to flange 63-72 a bodies with the 7 1/4 being 53.200 flange to flange. So if you have a early 66 it probably has the 7 1/4, but you might of been lucky to get the 3/4. Being as mine was a 7 1/4 and I put in a 8 1/4 which wound up only being 1.14 inches wider total overall. Not bad.
 
The aspen is almost identical in width to the b body rear they are less then a half inch from center leaf pin to pin. Its probably a b body rear under the car. either way you should be able to move the perches and get it to work.
 
Zoltan, you need to find out what vehicle donated that 8.75" rear end. I doubt very much it came under the "F" Body, so it was probably an "A" or "B" body diffy. If it was originally in an "A", then you're laughing. If it's from a "B" then you will need to move the spring perches in and get some wheels with the proper backspacing to fit your car.
 
It all sounds good that some of the parts will interchange, but for the price of $3000 not sure if it would be worth buying and parting it out. I would look at local yards and see if I could score on one from there for most of your front end parts. I think tht you could save a little money if you pieced it from different cars. I have found a 79 F-body I plan on striping the brake parts from and it will cost me $100. Then get upper AC from a 73 Swinger for another 100. Still looking for a rearend. All this is going onn a 71 Swinger. Just my .02.
Jeff
 
Oh and for the motor and trans 360/727, I found a 85 truck at a yardfor $750 with no title. So a few mod and it will fit.
Jeff
 
I'm starting to think that it would be OK to get this car if it was a really cheap deal but I think he wants too much money for it. I'll try to source some of the parts I need from local Mopar guys and some of the wreckers in my area.
 
Well I have an update on the Aspen, my friend from work has a brother who lives in the town where the Aspen is located and he is a mechanic to boot! So, he went and had a look at the car for me and I got a call from him last night. The car was sitting outside covered with a tarp and about 5 inches of snow. Pulled the cover off put in a freshly charged battery and she fired right up. No smoke at all from the tailpipe and the motor sounds really good, it's got a mild cam in there and an edelbrock intake with a carter(625) carb as well as headers. He put the car in gear and the tranny shifted very well and the driveline sounded and felt very tight. The owner has bills to the tune of $8000 spent on the running gear for this car so it all sound very good. If my truck sell this weekend then I'll buy the Aspen and drive it for the spring and pull the drivetrain, front brakes and hubs as well as any other usable parts in the summer.
I bought a millermatic 175 and a 60 cu. ft. bottle (argon CO2 mix) so now I can start on the frame connectors, floor pans and rear spring relocation. I have my work cut out for me! :lol:

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DSCF2076.jpg
 
That's the spirit! Roll up your sleeves and get 'er done. :) If you haven't used a MIG before, get an old fender,hood, door or something and practice, pracrice, practice, on that. DON'T learn to MIG weld on your car.
 
Practice is good, especially the heat and speed settings, but don't be afraid of it, IMO it is the most forgiving of the welding methods.
 
Thanks for the encouraging words! I have a C ticket in welding and my Dad has been a professional welder for the last 30 years, so I'll have some help from him. He is the best welder/fabricator I have seen. I can't wait to start this project but first I have to build a welding table and dial-in the mig welder. You are right, I don't want to start welding on the car before I get used to my new machine! :thumbup: I'm usually welding on big stuff (locomotives) not sheet metal. Lots of other stuff to take care of in the mean time. Disassembly and lots of cleaning, scraping and rust removal.
 
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